Plastic bits sticking out of the Benchy boat print.
We have a factory assembled Prusa i3 MK3S printer. During printing of Benchy the boat benchmark 3D design, the infill doesn't print correctly. The bits of plastic sticks out the print which then gets caught up in the nozzel while printing the next layer. We have attached the photos of the failed prints.
We use following settings on our printer-
1. 0.2mm PLA
2. 215 degree nozzel temperature
3. 60 degree bed temperature
We use textured bed for printing. Before printing, we followed the standard practise which is-
1. Cleaned the bed with isopropyl wipes.
2. Did the Z- calibration.
However, we are not able to find the exact problem that causes the print to fail. When we print the raft, the first layer prints fine, the second layer comes out thicker than the first and the third layer fails completely. It seems like the printer prints higher than the layer is supposed to be.
Does anyone has any suggestions or ideas about what to do in this case. Let us know if you need any more information about the printer configuration or the print. Any help will be appreciated.
Underneath the raft, prints seems to be fine.
The third layer of the raft fails.
The calibration seems good.
The infill has plastic bits sticking out.
RE: Plastic bits sticking out of the Benchy boat print.
Why do you print the part with a raft? Typically it does not need a raft.
To improve the reliability of your live-z you can also follow this method: https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/life-adjust-z-my-way/
It delivers better live-z than the procedure recommended by Prusa.
The look of your infill is a bit odd. What infill type are you using? If it is grid infill, maybe try rectilinear.
RE: Plastic bits sticking out of the Benchy boat print.
You should first try printing the sample Benchy gcode rather than slicing the part yourself.
And, once you've determined the printer is working well by printing a few of the included samples, then start slicer to hone your skills at matching the gcode samples.
But - in my experience, benchy is best at 0.15 Quality settings. If this doesn't mean anything to you, then are you using Prusa Slicer or something else, like Cura or S3D or? If not Prusa Slicer, where did you get your MK3 profiles?
ps: and the part looks awfully small. Why are you scaling it down so much?
RE: Plastic bits sticking out of the Benchy boat print.
... and for future reference:
RE: Plastic bits sticking out of the Benchy boat print.
Why do you print the part with a raft? Typically it does not need a raft.
To improve the reliability of your live-z you can also follow this method: https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/life-adjust-z-my-way/
It delivers better live-z than the procedure recommended by Prusa.
The look of your infill is a bit odd. What infill type are you using? If it is grid infill, maybe try rectilinear.
We tried with the raft because the print was detaching from the base all the time in the middle of the printing and we thought it would help the print to stick to the base. While printing the raft, we noticed that the second and third layers didn't print correctly. That's why we thought that this could be linked to another big issue. We think that the print is detaching from the base because the floating plastic bits gets caught up with the nozzel and the piece gets pulled away. We tried printing with the brim (5mm) as well, but this also got pulled away.
We know that the live-z calibration is correct as the base layer prints correctly. The issue is with the layers after that. Thank you for suggesting to try with the rectilinear infill. We will try that, but our problem is that the grid infill is not printing correctly.
RE: Plastic bits sticking out of the Benchy boat print.
You should first try printing the sample Benchy gcode rather than slicing the part yourself.
And, once you've determined the printer is working well by printing a few of the included samples, then start slicer to hone your skills at matching the gcode samples.
But - in my experience, benchy is best at 0.15 Quality settings. If this doesn't mean anything to you, then are you using Prusa Slicer or something else, like Cura or S3D or? If not Prusa Slicer, where did you get your MK3 profiles?
ps: and the part looks awfully small. Why are you scaling it down so much?
We tried with the sample benchy gcode with the default settings and it failed (detached from the base).
We then used our sliced gcode with brim(5mm) and with 0.15mm Speed and it still failed.
While printing we noticed that:
1. The lines of the grid was not continuous.
2. There was space between the layers of the grid wall.
3. Plastic bits sticks out of the grid which might be getting caught up in the nozzel.
RE: Plastic bits sticking out of the Benchy boat print.
i'm not sure but have you tried a cold pull? perhaps you have debris on the inside of the nozzle partly blocking the flow of filament and creating an uneven print.
if you just extrude some filament, does it come out evenly? or does it curl to one side?
what filament are you using?
i see from the pictures you don't have a silicon sock on the heat block, regular pla should work just fine without it but it can be beneficial since it isolated the the heat block from the fan, especially directly when second layer starts (i had problems with second layer on petg where parts of it didnt stick properly and flex filament causing hotend thermal runaway due to this)
RE: Plastic bits sticking out of the Benchy boat print.
@saksham290992 A lot of people are having adhesion issues with the powder coated sheet and PLA. Try washing the sheet with dish soap and hot water.
Use fresh paper towels with a few drops of dish soap to scrub the sheet well, and lots of hot water to rinse.
Handle the bed only by the edges while washing and subsequent handling (finger prints are especially bad). Dawn dish detergent is the best (by experience of many). Get the bottle without hand sanitizers, hand softeners, hand lotions, etc. As plain as possible.
Once you have washed the sheet, and water is beading off like a fresh wax job on your car, dry the remaining water with a fresh paper towel, then place it on the printer and heat at 80c for 30 minutes to bake the moisture out of the cracks in the sputtered surface.
Then try your print again.
Many PC sheet owners have found this initial soap and water cleaning is very helpful.
.. once you have parts sticking as they should, then you'll know if you have any other print issues you need to resolve.