[Solved] noob troubles  

RE: noob troubles

P.s. Do I need to unzip the thingiverse file before downloading it to the printer?
(should I ever get that far? /s)

RE: noob troubles

Okay, I got the filament  to load by scraping the end on 3 sides to about 1/2 its original thickness.

Now what about the other problems?

RE: noob troubles

Typically a thingiverse is an STL   or a number of STL's in a zip file. 
these STL's need to be unzipped, (If they are in a Zipfile) and then the STL Needs to be sliced      in a slicer program, (Usually Prusa Slicer for prusa printers)
the slicer then creates a 'Gcode' file which contains the machine instructions for the 3D printer. With the Mk3 series printers, the Gcode is loaded onto an SD card     and then the SD Card is inserted into the Printer card reader, and then the printer can be instructed to print the gcode from the SD Card. 

regards Joan

RE: noob troubles

Thank you Joan.

For whatever reason, I guess it had been soooo looong since I read the manual that came with the MK3S+

I was thinking that it "plug an play".

I found out tonight that my version of Linux Mint did not come with flatpak installed, so I've installed it.
Now, I'm still getting the

"Unable to load summary from remote flathub: URI https://dl.flathub.org/repo/summary exceeded  maximum size of 10485760 bytes"

error.  Anyway it is getting late, the laptop is (hopefully) recharging, I will try again tomorrow.

Also, I need to reload each page of this forum, as the cache won't recognize my login.

Thanks again! 

RE: noob troubles

Was there no 3D Printing Handbook in the box?   EDIT: I see there was, if it's an old copy  the latest version is downloadable from:  https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads/mk3s-2

Depending on which version you have some of the software names have changed but most changes are obvious.

All your questions are addressed in the handbook - OK, some better than others but following the step by step procedures is how many users here learned the basics.

There should be an SD card in the box containing some pre-prepared .gcode files that you can use to check the printer is calibrated correctly - many have trouble with the 'Z' offset calibration, come back here if you need help.

The Mk3 series load firmware by direct connection from PrusaSlicer, again the basics are in the handbook.

Flatpak is a PITA - I'm not familiar with Linux Mint, I use Debian and Puppy Linux but do most of my slicing on Raspberry Pi OS, you will get better help with Flatpak errors from a Mint forum, https://forums.linuxmint.com/   'though I expect everything is similar.  My guess is that your Flatpak version needs updating but that is only a guess.

I attempted to load the black filament that had been packed in the box (it was still vacuum sealed)

Although still sealed there is a good chance that by now the filament will need drying.  It will probably print you a useable part but perhaps not the neatest quality.

I got the filament to load by scraping the end on 3 sides to about 1/2 its original thickness.

Cut it at 45° with a pair of side cutters.

Which thingiverse file are you trying to print? URI? All of the repositories contain a huge number of unchecked, tricky and sometimes unprintable files, one of us can check the file and look for issues that may trip a new user.

Cheerio,

RE: noob troubles

Posted by: @diem

All your questions are addressed in the handbook - OK, some better than others but following the step by step procedures is how many users here learned the basics.

There should be an SD card in the box containing some pre-prepared .gcode files that you can use to check the printer is calibrated correctly - many have trouble with the 'Z' offset calibration, come back here if you need help.

 

The Mk3 series load firmware by direct connection from PrusaSlicer, again the basics are in the handbook.

Flatpak is a PITA - I'm not familiar with Linux Mint, I use Debian and Puppy Linux but do most of my slicing on Raspberry Pi OS, you will get better help with Flatpak errors from a Mint forum, https://forums.linuxmint.com/   'though I expect everything is similar.  My guess is that your Flatpak version needs updating but that is only a guess.

I attempted to load the black filament that had been packed in the box (it was still vacuum sealed)

Although still sealed there is a good chance that by now the filament will need drying.  It will probably print you a useable part but perhaps not the neatest quality.

I got the filament to load by scraping the end on 3 sides to about 1/2 its original thickness.

Cut it at 45° with a pair of side cutters.

Which thingiverse file are you trying to print? URI? All of the repositories contain a huge number of unchecked, tricky and sometimes unprintable files, one of us can check the file and look for issues that may trip a new user.

Cheerio,

Thanks for your response Diem!

I dd use a pair of dikes (sidecutters) to cut the filament, but that didn't leave enough of an angle (I guess).

The printer is currently printing out the thingiverse file. 

( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5682164)

I was able to install PrusaSlicer 2.5.0 with Synaptic Package Manager on my Devuan desk PC (flathub was not responding).

During configuration of PrusaSlicer I specified MK3S(+) with MMU2 single, but I don't have an MMU and the non-MMU choice was for a Mini.
I stumbled my way through *Slicer and exported Gcode to the Prusa SD card (I previously moved 15 unwanted files off it to my desk PC)

The printer didn't recognize the file, SURPRISE!  PrusaSlicer wrote the gcode file with SPECIAL CHARACTERS!

When I figured that out, the printer said the code contained the wrong printer! (Was it because *Slicer didn't LIST my printer when I was configuring???)

But I told it to run anyway.

When I left it running in the shop and came in to reply to you, it was at 20%

RE: noob troubles

So, did I use too much or too little glue stick on the printer bed?

You shouldn't need any glue with PLA, so too much.

Scrub the print sheet clean with dishwashing detergent (Dawn/Fairy) and rinse with very HOT water.  Pat dry with a fresh paper towel, handle by the edges only.

I suspect your Z offset calibration is off - run the built in calibration and show us the result *on the print sheet* BEFORE you try printing again.

The Thingiverse file you are trying to print has several red flags ...

No-one has posted a make.  Despite quite a few downloads nobody has posted a picture of a successful print or even a comment.

The original designer posted only renderings, no pictures of the printed part.  It is possible that this file has never been printed...

It is not well designed for 3D printing but that is normal for a replacement part, usually the original is injection moulded.

It has some tricky-for-a-beginner overhangs needing support.

Attached is a zipped gcode file that should print OK with the PLA spool in your box but not until you have your Z offset correctly calibrated.

The part will not be very strong as designed, it might not matter, I don't know how it is used.  Your filament has a low glass transition temperature so if this part gets hot it may soften and fail - but if it fits and functions it could be reprinted in a suitable polymer, PETG would probably be OK.

Cheerio,

RE: noob troubles

Thanks again Diem!

I'll try again tomorrow (after cleaning the build plate as you described), with your revised plug.

It is "fix" for a broken "axle" on the top rack of the dishwasher.

After seeing the failed print, my wife asked what the cost of the genuine replacement would cost (versus the cost of the printed part).

The replacement kit is around $54 (plus shipping?)

Synaptic Package Manager downloaded version 2.5.0 of PrusaSlicer I have not been able to upgrade the program.

I downloaded PrusaSlicer-version_2.9.3-rcl.tar.gz

and followed the instructions for Linux on

https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/blob/master/doc/How%20to%20build%20-%20Linux%20et%20al.md

but cmake failed with errors that are above my realm of knowledge.

It's not revised, just sliced as I would print it.  Regard the PLA version as a prototype - if it fits and runs cold be prepared to buy some PETG as the PLA is likely to deform at 60°C.  The PETG will require re-slicing.

But don't bother attempting to print it until the Z offset has been correctly calibrated.

PS 2.5.0 will work reasonably well for Mk3 slicing.  Certainly it is enough for the first few weeks learning curve.

The compile is complex, unnecessarily so due to the dev team's 'fashionable' desire to eliminate perl from the toolchain.  For later on I suggest you work through installing under flatpak with the Mint forums.  Right now you are trying to learn a whole bunch of different things at the same time; better to proceed in stages.

The printer won't pay for itself with the first small spare part.  Once you are used to the process (don't forget to check manufacturer's websites for official files, quite a few supply them now) and especially once you have learned to design your own - yes another step - you will begin to lose count of the printed fixes and the small savings will add up.

Cheerio,

RE: noob troubles

Bed cleaned as you said.

Z = 0.15 (after Z calibration)

Your file = downloaded, extracted, renamed (no special chars), copied to SD card.

Thanks again!

The Z offset figure is meaningless, the actual value is specific to each printer and to the state of wear of the nozzle.  It will change slowly over time and need recalibration every few months.

Cheerio,

RE: noob troubles

But don't bother attempting to print it until the Z offset has been correctly calibrated.

The Z offset figure is meaningless

So, I'm confused, I thought that is what you were requesting...

Thanks though for your responses!

RE: noob troubles

be prepared to buy some PETG as the PLA is likely to deform at 60°C.

Arrrgghh! I have four 2 Kg spools of PLA!

B^)

RE: noob troubles

The PLA will be fine for most jobs not involving hot water.

Cheerio,

RE: noob troubles

I call it "success"!

Thank you Diem for re-slicing and adding standoffs!
Now to remove the standoffs and strings.

Your filament is seriously damp, look up how to dry it.

Cheerio,

RE: noob troubles

Thanks for the assessment Diem.

I don't think that drying the filament will help in this build.  I tried to install it last night and a couple of the "prongs|" easily broke off. yes, bad adhesion between layers from too damp filament.   But, I also realized that part will not have the strength to support its share of weight when the top rack of the dishwasher is fully loaded.  As I don't have PETG filament at this time.to try, I'm going to try a bolt, nuts, and washers to replace the broken axle.  And if that doesn't work, I'm sure SWMBO* will want me to buy the replacement kit from the appliance store that sold us the dishwasher.

Thanks Joan and Diem, I'm going mark this Solved as I need to move on!

*She Who Must Be Obeyed  😘

RE: noob troubles

Random thoughts: The future isn't here yet, and the best angle to approach 3D printers may still be from the side with lowest expectations. 

Plugging it in and printing functional parts for a hostile environment next day is ... ambitious.

But hey, the dishwasher is broken so it needs to go. Makes space for an XL. "Honey, it will print us new dishes". Wife not amused. Heh 😀