MK3S part melted  

RE: MK3S part melted

PC, PETG, and ABS with CF all work.  

RE: MK3S part melted

@colemorgan

No worries on the revival. I gave up on it. Too many trolls attacking me, saying the issue was my fault somehow, including Prusa Support people. I've moved on to other things. Have a nice day!

RE: MK3S part melted

Printed mine with Amazon PETG in August and have put between 500 and 1000 hours on it since then. Contrary to the damage that only took 40 hours of PLA printing to show up, my R5 parts looked as good as the day I printed them when I opened the extruder to swap nozzles. No sign of warping or melting on either the fin (my original issue) or PINDA mount.

RE: MK3S part melted

Posted by: @nikolai-r

@colemorgan

I used PC and ABS extruder for quite some time. The result is: not suitable for this case in the long run. PC parts will crack over time. ABS will get brittle as-well. So far PETG is really the only material I would recommend for all parts which are under changing load all the time. Maybe Nylon-CF can be an alternative but the glass transition temp in compare to PETG is so close, that I haven't tried it yet.

I am preparing my BLV mgn Cube ready for PEEK. Has anyone tried this yet? 

RE: MK3S part melted

@colemorgan

Printing with PEEK is a different level, not only because it‘s expensive. For > 350C you will need to rebuild your printer a little bit. Like changing the thermistor (adjusting the firmware) and all the other fun stuff. I remember seeing a discussion about PEEK printing on a Prusa machine in this forum and some people have done it in stages using PC as a transition material. 

RE: MK3S part melted

@nikolai-r

I have a few other printers other than Prusa and one can print PEEK. I was curious if anyone has printed their extruded body from PEEK or PEKK before. 

RE: MK3S part melted

Just to say that after I changed to the r5 parts back in August the PINDA hokder had held through printing plenty of hours at 240-260c.

The fan/heatsink fin, however, has melted in the same place, but that's more cosmetic. The pinda has held just fine. I printed the r5 parts in prusa petg that came with the mk3s upgrade kit.

Worth pointing out that I was one of many customers whose mk3s order was delayed for 2-3 months when the upgrade kit was new. I printed the parts in whatever petg I had and it probably had a marginally lower transition temperature than prusa petg

RE: MK3S part melted

Posted by: @nikolai-r

@colemorgan

I used PC and ABS extruder for quite some time. The result is: not suitable for this case in the long run. PC parts will crack over time. ABS will get brittle as-well. So far PETG is really the only material I would recommend for all parts which are under changing load all the time. Maybe Nylon-CF can be an alternative but the glass transition temp in compare to PETG is so close, that I haven't tried it yet.

I agree 100%. After 3 months of continuous use, my x-carriage-back made of PC (Polymax) material looked like this (all other parts still living):

I reprinted it now with CPE-HG100 and am curious how long this material will last. Otherwise PETG will be an alternative.

I don't particularly like filaments with enriched additives. Experience makes smart!