mk2 to mk3 upgrades
I folks,
(I'm sure this must've been asked, but can't find a difinitive answer)
I have an O/G i3mk2(s) that I'm in the process of revamping & want to use this opportunity to queeze as much blood from this rock as I can, given to opportunity.If I'm gonna do majour surgery, I might as well do it properly.
To what extent can I push the upgrades, hacks & mods on my ol' mk2 to gring it into mk3?
My budget is extremely limited - especially with import costs where I am - so I wanna spend as little as possible & make use of what's available to me. It makes little sense in spending as much on upgrade kits as a new machine would cost me at the end of the day, but it's also absurd to chuck out a perfectly functional printer.
Most of the upgrade kits are no longer available, but I suspect I may have most of what I need to do much of it myself, as long as I can find a good source of info.
Can you good folks please point me in the right direction on DIY's I can do to max out my mk2, ideally push it as far into mk3 territory (or beyond) as I can?
Thanks in advance
RE: mk2 to mk3 upgrades
Mk2.5 is the most cost effective option...
if you can find the parts.
Mk52, 12 volt heatbeds are available on Ali Express.
So, I believe are the appropriate fans and filament sensor.
extruder parts are on Prusa Printables
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: mk2 to mk3 upgrades
Hi Joan,
Thanks for your response.
I have some (most?) of the other parts kicking around from other printers I've cannibalised.
I've noticed that one of the most significant differences is moving from 12V to 24V outputs, so I'll have to beef up the PSU & possibly look at changes I may need to make to the RAMBO board. (Sticking with 12V for now; problem for later or more $$$.)
We've already added a magnetic PEI bed, with great results.
What makes sense right now it to sub printed parts as best I can:
I've also found various other upgrades/mods that could make meaningful improvements, such as some of the Bear Lab carriage/extruder upgrades & others that would permit easier tool-changes & other E3D heads, so that if/when I have any issues I can quickly do a swap & continue while I debug.
This printer is a 'perma-loan' in one of my MakerSpaces, so serviceability is crucial, and reliable hackability would strongly inform the argument for getting a new kitted-out Prusa(s).
Am I heading down the right path or going astray?
Asking so for a sanity-check before I completely brick my baby.
RE: mk2 to mk3 upgrades
the path you are approaching, leads to a series of Rabbit holes...
the Mk3 Heatbed does not match the Mk2 Y platform bolt pattern
the Mk2 Frame is narrower and less tall than the Mk3 Frame,
the Mk2 Y axis smooth rail spacing, is different to the Mk3 Y axis smooth rail spacing,
the Mk2 Y Motor is on the opposite side of the the drive belt, to the Mk3 Y Motor, so if you use Mk3 Firmware, the printer will home to the back of the build plate not the front of the build plate.
the standard Z motor top and bottom brackets will limit the Z Height of the printer,
there were some different brackets (Intended to restore Z height, on a Mk2, when an e3D volcano hot end was installed,) that increased the available Z height in a Mk2 Frame, enough for a Mk3 setup.
The power supply needs to be 24V, the Prusa Delta PSU is not compatible with the Mk2 Frame, Non prusa power supplies do not have power panic features so power panic may not be achievable
the mk2 end stops would need removing,
the hot end heater would need swapping to 24 volt, the hotend and part cooling fans would need swapping to 5 volt
Apart from that, it's pretty much Plain sailing!
Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: mk2 to mk3 upgrades
I've noticed that one of the most significant differences is moving from 12V to 24V outputs, so I'll have to beef up the PSU & possibly look at changes I may need to make to the RAMBO board. (Sticking with 12V for now; problem for later or more $$$.)
Am I heading down the right path or going astray?
Asking so for a sanity-check before I completely brick my baby.
Wrong path, I would say. Joan already mentioned the never-ending rabbit-holes you'll be heading down. For how much it would cost to replace the electronics, the power supply, the heatbed, most of the frame, and then build a custom firmware for your FrankenPrusa, you would have been better off buying an MK4 and having two printers.
I mulled the same decision a few years ago and I passed on the MK3-upgrade kit. I didn't see enough value. Instead I upgraded my MK2 to the Mk2.5S+ and later added a Raspberry Pi 4 running Prusalink. Just like Prusa says on their MK2.5S+ page:
This upgrade gives you the best features of MK3S+
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/upgrading-mk2-s-and-mk2-5-s-to-mk2-5s_200009
And I think they're 100% correct. You don't need to go to the MK3 to get most of the benefits of the MK3. You can achieve most of the same benefits with the MK2.5S+. And that's a supported model with firmware available direct from Prusa. No mucking about.
Unfortunately the MK2.5S+ upgrade-kit is no longer available directly from Prusa. But they do list every part you need and the printable parts are still downloadable. It's not an easy upgrade (anymore) but still much easier than upgrading to an MK3.
RE: mk2 to mk3 upgrades
Thanks for the great info.
Following your advice, I'm going to go as far as doing mods to bring it up to mk2.5+ @ 12V, using this guide.
I do have some of the parts, but other components I have difficulty sourcing, as sales of these have effectively dried up a few years ago.
In particular I can't seem to find the proper spec or corresponding datasheets, as they don't seem to be listed in the BoM or Prusa Store (eg. SuperPINDA).
If I'm going to be placing orders for parts from abroad, I need to know that what I'm getting is correct, as there's no chance of doing returns from Aotearoa.
In many cases I can find suitable analogs by making use of Creality Ender components, such as the BondTech Extruders & DriveGears, and E3D Revo are (locally) easier to source than legacy.
Crucially I need to make this machine members-serviceable, which it is not atm.