Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
video of problem:
Hi! I have a fun(not) problem with three of my Prusa mk3s+, after a simple and easy nozzle change the heater block is loose and can rotate freely. This is the first time this has happened to me. I don't know what I am doing wrong.
I have spent around 4h with support and they can't find the issue. I cant also. Have re-tighten and un-tighten the nozzle around 10 times now holding the heat block, unscrewing the heat block differently etc.. But nothing helps.I have tried tightening it with more and more force and that has not solved it.
I have followed this guides:
Prusa Knowledge Base | How to replace a hotend PTFE tube (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S) (prusa3d.com)
Prusa Knowledge Base | How to replace a heatbreak/heatsink/heaterblock (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S) (prusa3d.com)
Prusa Knowledge Base | Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5S/MK3S/MK3S+) (prusa3d.com)
Prusa Knowledge Base | How to replace a heatbreak/heatsink/heaterblock (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S) (prusa3d.com)
How to replace the extruder nozzle - YouTube
How to change nozzles on a Prusa i3 MK3S - YouTube
I have owned and done nozzle changes on printers from:
Creality
Ultimaker,
Raise3d,
Flashforge,
Creatbot
Prusa mini+
Prusa mk3s+ but never has this happened before!
Best Answer by FoxRun3D:
You should definitely be able to tighten it properly. As Chuck said, there might be a physical obstruction that of course Prusa support can't see.
As far as the Dragon is concerned, I have switched all my Minis and Mk3S over to those hotends. Seamless drop-in (well, you need to print small adapters to prevent the hotend from rotating), print quality on par with stock E3D V6, and—most importantly for me—effortless single-handed nozzle change. To the point that the Revo hotend that showed up last week is still sitting in the box and will probably stay there because I don't really see any advantage, and I can run my Dragon hotends with tungsten carbide nozzles.
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
I would guess that your heatbreak is not fully against the nozzle. It is loose, something is not correct.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE:
Will go back and check again, so annoying!
So tighten it more? Because I cant tighten it more than this.
Other than that, I read that you installed a Dragon hotend like this one, is it working out good?
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
I have a dragon installed on my Mini. It works. Check to see if you have any dirt or plastic stopping you from completely tightening the parts.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
You should definitely be able to tighten it properly. As Chuck said, there might be a physical obstruction that of course Prusa support can't see.
As far as the Dragon is concerned, I have switched all my Minis and Mk3S over to those hotends. Seamless drop-in (well, you need to print small adapters to prevent the hotend from rotating), print quality on par with stock E3D V6, and—most importantly for me—effortless single-handed nozzle change. To the point that the Revo hotend that showed up last week is still sitting in the box and will probably stay there because I don't really see any advantage, and I can run my Dragon hotends with tungsten carbide nozzles.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
Will check again, thanks!
Would you say you had any issues with the Dragon Hotend over E3D V6 hotend?
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
Have been printing with it for around 50H like it is with no problems. But will do a deep dive soon again!
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
Will check again, thanks!
Would you say you had any issues with the Dragon Hotend over E3D V6 hotend?
Absolutely none.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
Perfect, thinking of buying 3 for my Prusa MK3S+ printers just to have it and test.
Is there any mounts you would rec?
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
Actually, one issue. If you have a hopeless case of Blob of Death or any other reason you want to replace the heater block, with the E3D V6 it's easy to remove the heat break from the heater block so you can reuse the heat break and heat sink. I had one such case with a Dragon and found it impossible to remove the tiny screws between the heat sink and the heater block. I ended up using a new assembly.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
Oh, alright! the normal E3D sock will work with it or do they sell some special ones?
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
the normal E3D sock will work with it or do they sell some special ones?
They come with a sock but I don't use socks. I think a standard E3D sock would fit as well.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
Is there any mounts you would rec?
I use these adapters:
Mini adapter: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/63259
Mk3S+ adapter: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/67418
There are other Mk3S+ adapters but the one I mentioned here is by far the simplest and works very well.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
Thank you, will print these in PC CF 🙂
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
That's fine. I printed some with PC Blend and some with PETG, all are working fine.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
That's fine. I printed some with PC Blend and some with PETG, all are working fine.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
Would you go with High Flow or Standard?
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
I went with standard flow, after seeing too many reports of serious clogging issues with the HF version. And for the stuff I'm printing I don't have a need for standard flow. I have one very large model I print regularly for sale but with a 0.8 mm nozzle and fine tuning MVS I can print it in a reasonable time with reasonable quality without the need for a high flow hotend.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
Thanks! Will go with that also then!
RE: Loose Heater Block after changing nozzles
I have both and have had clogs with neither.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog