live Z adjust
My first layer has been pulling away from the bed and/or not adhering to it so I decided to try and run the live Z adjust. I can't get it to succeed no matter what I do! I reset it to zero and it fails. I try putting it at -.200mm or greater and it fails by the plastic bunching out coming out of the nozzle. So I figure -.200mm is too low, so I lower the value below -.200mm towards 0 and it won't stay on the bed, and then bunches up again at the nozzle.
I've cleaned the bed sheet with 91% ipa.
I've tried turning the sheet over to the side that I've never used.
Please help with some suggestions.
Thank you,
Kevin
RE: live Z adjust
-
A dirty PEI print surface. Even if you don't think this is the cause, it's always a good idea to make sure your PEI surface is clean before trying any other fixes. If it's a smooth PEI sheet, take it to the kitchen sink and give it a good dunk with Dawn (original formula, no vinegar or hand softener variants) dishwashing soap or your local equivalent (e.g. Fairy in UK). Use a clean paper towel to clean it off, and another to dry it. Avoid using any sponge or cloth that has been in contact with grease. Above all else, avoid touching the PEI print surface. Once it's good and clean, you should be able to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol between prints, 100% acetone when that fails , and another dunk when acetone fails. Worst-case, use a 3M 7445 ScotchBrite pad or equivalent on smooth PEI to give it a very light buff, but only infrequently. If you've got a textured powder-coated PEI print surface, the official instructions are to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol on it only. Rumors persist that some tribes deep in the jungle have had good luck getting started with these sheets by giving them a wipe with 100% acetone and a dunk with Dawn. Either way, there's no real warranty on these sheets. YMMV.
-
If you have not already done so, try using Jeff Jordan's "Life Adjust" procedure for calibrating your Live-Z setting. It is much easier to use and understand than the on-board routine. It's much easier to make mid-print adjustments accurately with. In general, start high (less negative) and work lower (more negative) in large increments (e.g. 0.1mm) until the filament starts to stick on its own. When you've got your Live-Z setting adjusted properly, you should be able to gently rub the extruded lines on the PEI surface without dislodging them. Then start lowering (more negative) the level until there are no gaps between layers.
and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan
RE: live Z adjust
I try putting it at -.200mm or greater and it fails by the plastic bunching out coming out of the nozzle. So I figure -.200mm is too low, so I lower the value below -.200mm towards 0 and it won't stay on the bed, and then bunches up again at the nozzle.
Well, per your info above, you are going the wrong way in the values as they are reversed. A larger negative number is closer to the bed and a smaller negative number is further away from the bed. If it is too high at -.200mm, you need to go further like -.300mm or -.400mm instead of to zero.
Do what Bobstro suggests, then try again with the live z value starting at -200 and dial it in more negative until it sticks...
My PEI is at -0.258mm and my Powder coated sheets are at -0.425mm or so, that was after i moved the pinda probe further from the bed, when i started out, my live z was -1.400...
Strange women, laying in ponds, distributing swords, is hardly a basis for a system of governance!
RE: live Z adjust
@bobstro
Thank you both. I will try these during this week. Hopefully, things work out. 🙂