I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed  

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Try washing the buildplate with washing up liquid and water solution. and dry with a paper towel, and try again...

regards Joan

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Hi Joan,

Do you need to use a sponge? And which side of the sponge?

Thanks
Gaston

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Try washing the buildplate with washing up liquid and water solution. and dry with a paper towel, and try again...

regards Joan

Hi Joan.
I didn’t think to mention I clean with 100% IPA between prints. I also cleaned with acetone. with no difference.

I should correct the timeline a bit. While printing large infill I noticed my nozzle was scraping on grid infill. The firmware update was done in an attempt to fix this however I later find this is just a thing that happens. (I’ve never come acros it on my old printer)

The firmware update was done before my terminator print failure.

I’m quite sure my nozzle is 10C cooler after firmware update. If nobody else is seeing this then there must be a hardware reason for the change.

I’ve now print a perfect benchy with all layers +10C.

I’m still puzzled by this.

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Some examples with +10C.
I’m happy with these prints. Is this typical of mk3 sdcard gcode.

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Another angle

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Good morning Gavin.

sometimes we try and use the wrong solvents...

[attachment=0]20180525_095723[1].jpg[/attachment]

this grease has been in IPA for months and not dissolved...
before that, it was in Acetone and didn't dissolve

if this was smeared on your build plate, believe me, nothing would stick...

washing up liquid and water would wash it off...

regards Joan

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Good morning Gavin.

sometimes we try and use the wrong solvents...

20180525_095723[1].jpg

this grease has been in IPA for months and not dissolved...
before that, it was in Acetone and didn't dissolve

if this was smeared on your build plate, believe me, nothing would stick...

washing up liquid and water would wash it off...

regards Joan

Hello Joan,

thank you for that striking example.

Greetings Kai

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Hi Kai.

It is a failed experiment...

I was hoping to use the grease as a fast application solvent based lubricant...

But it didnt work

Joan

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Hi Gaston.
I usually use the sponge side. With detergent and water.

But after using glue. I have used the scotchbrite (abrasive) side.

Before i found out about soap and water. I have used IPA and wet and dry abrasive paper 400grit... (Finest i had in stock)

Regards Joan

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Oh, what a pity.
But regardles a good statement for the "washing liquid denier". 😉

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Bottom to top:Before detergent, after detergent, and then +10deg.

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Hi Gavin,

the bottom picture, pre wash, seems to be the worst result,

the middle one sticks better but looks to have too little squish, a little more squish (higher negative Live Z number) may well improve the adhesion to the bed surface.

difficult to say what the top one looks like, as it's out of focus. there is obviously more correlation with the expected filament pattern, but whether it also looks too round, (not squished) is difficult to say

there are lots of interacting factors in 3D printing

and different combinations can give results that we find satisfactory.

additionally the tools we use are built to a price... so for instance the thermistors are cheap but not perfect sensors. and the temperature reporting is based on general information, not related to your specific device. it is entirely possible that yours is showing a slightly higher temperature than others are for the same real temperature... so raising the expected temperature, may be addressing the issue for you. (or it may be just making the filament more likely to stay where it's put, because it's more likely to stick under gravitational effect rather than squishing properly.)

ask anyone who has more than one printer, if their printers perform the same for the same temperatures/settings and you are likely to be told that they don't... My Mk2 MMU seems happier at lower temperatures than my Mk3.

earlier, your tree frog, looked a bit hairy, this is often caused by stringing, which can be caused by higher than necessary temperatures...

have you increased the temperatures across the board, say first layer 225 other layers 220 or are you only increasing the first layer to 225 and leaving remaining layers at 210?

regards Joan

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

I agree with Joan, your issue with your first layer is your Live Z. You are too far from the print bed, and need to be closer. I would guesstimate you are around 0.2mm too high. (meaning you are trying to extrude a 0.2mm layer line, 0.4mm away.

DO NOT ADJUST THAT MUCH AT ONCE.
(Even I won't adjust more than 0.1mm at a time, and that's just begging to destroy your flex-plate) I advise adjusting 0.02 to 0.05 at a time. As long as there is filament behind the nozzle you are "safe from damaging things". It's when the filament starts to get "thin" and translucent that you should start to worry.

Personally If I think I need to adjust 0.2mm, I will start with the old settings, and then after each "long" line, drop it by 0.05mm.
There is a "feel" to feeling the lines, but that just takes experience and can't be "told".

I am only saying that number, becuase that's what it looks like to me. Make small adjustments, and measure with... your finger.

"But I'm a 3d n00b, I don't know what it's supposed to feel like".

Easy enough.

If the top of the square feels sandpapery (no angle is smooth)... you are too close, move the nozzle away from the print bed. If it's smooth, who cares, you are good enough. And if it's "ridgy/bumpy" you are too high. (what you have now)
Feel with your FINGER, not your fingernail.

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Thankyou all.

My issues were indeed with layer height.
Pictured below is a photo I showed my mate. It is of the same gcode printed one after the other with no adjustment and shows the same corner that was printed:

I believed I was looking at a temperature issue but as he and others pointed out it was my bed too high.
The question was, why.

I sliced a good bed leveling test and began doing live z level. No adjustment would allow for a consistant print on over the entire bed.

I also noticed that as printing my z axis was going up and down as if my mk3 believed my bed had a wave shape.
I did some reading and found some suggestions that a pinda probe that was too high would cause noisy signals. I double checked and my pinda probe was at the 1 cable tie thickness which by my measurment is 1.15mm. I lowered this to .7mm.

After another calibration of z everything sticks, however to get what I think is pretty perfect results I had to do the following settings:

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

The final result:

Does everyone else have their pinda at the 1 cable tie width 1.15mm from the bed and is my probe just a little different than most?
I would be interested in how the assembled printer comes.

I did also did a completed temp test between firmwares and found no variation. I suppose higher temps just gave me more tolerance for a poor first layer height. I can't explain why my printer no longer leaves little dots during the first layer calibration. Perhaps the newer firmware performs a retraction?

Edit: I'm also thinking the second calibrations wizard at firmware change probably by chance didn't go as well and thats why I saw these issues after a firmware change.

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

That looks much better. Have you gone bach to the lower temperatures?
That might reduce stringing too.

Regards Joan

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Yes Joan,
I will do the same prints again at some point.
During the many first layer calibration tests I did I experimented a bit with nozzle and bed temperature.

65C bed has noticably more adhesion than 60C.
220 has a slight bit more adhesion than 215 for first layer.

I was thinking for large long (time) prints that will be candidates for corner warp I would set 65C and 220 for first layer and 65C and 210C for the rest.
What are your thoughts on this.

Gavin.

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

I measured my bed temp at 42c with the LCD showing 60c. I was having problems getting large prints to stick (3Dlabprint Spitfire) and increased my bed temp to 70c. I now use the tune function to set the bed temp higher and getting very good results but I wonder if there is something wrong or a better way

Re: I have to increase nozzle temp +10C to get supplied sdcard gcode to stick to bed

Hi Tom,

you could change the bed temperature in Slic3r under the filament tab, this would save you having to mess with the tune menu.

regards Joan