First layer calibration testing
Finally assembled my prusa imk3 model and everything went well except for the first layer calibration testing. I tried to get the prints to the desired thickness but couldn't get it quite like the several YouTube videos I watched. .I tried to do it again to until it printed so thin that it looks like my steel sheet bed is engraved after I removed the print . I know I have another side but now I'm worried at what to do next .
Re: First layer calibration testing
When you pull the layer 1, it should be 0.2mm thick. That is the only trick I know that's reliable. I've found what it looks like is not dependable because looks will change with material.
On the other end; if the line isn't sticking at all, probably too high; as you move down the pad should be a welded solid, not a bunch of strings. You shouldn't need to go any lower than that. But measure the thickness for best results. Once the thickness is right, then flow becomes important to get a solid weld. But some just go lower to get full weld... Most of us use large circles or squares to test layer 1 because a larger area helps and gives time to tune Z.
Re: First layer calibration testing
I'm new to 3D printing and I didn't think the learning curve would be this great so sorry if I'm asking silly questions. I did see where one guy did an egg test with his printer and another printed a square like you suggested . I printed the test frog on the SD card but the lower half looked horrible while the top looked amazing. My question is am I going to have to adjust the z line with every print ? My main goal was to print minitures but I'm finding it hard to adjust the line to get the bottom of them correct.
Re: First layer calibration testing
My question is am I going to have to adjust the z line with every print ?
temperature and humidity affect inductive probes , so...maybe? the purpose of "live Z" is to be able to adjust it on the fly if you notice your first layer isn't sticking correctly.
my advice is add a LOT of skirt/brim to your prints in slic3r, this gives you a lot of time to adjust Z if anything is out of whack before the actual part starts printing.
Re: First layer calibration testing
Generally first layer cal is needed when changing type of filament; it's rare you need to change it with every different spool or for every print.
Tuning for precision is a second level of art. There you worry about all sorts of things: strength, sheen, hairs, etc.
Main thing to remember: do NOT touch the bed with your fingers. Use tools to remove parts (but also don't gouge the bed). Oils will cause the bed to become slick and incapable of PLA adhesion. Something most owners have experienced and learned the hard way.
3D printing requires layers be extruded onto something to work best. Extruding into thin air is a problem. A normal accepted limit is 45 degree overhangs. More than this requires some planning. The frog has an underside that is far more than 45 degrees. Printing with thinner layers helps with overhangs. Also, in some cases slowing the print speed can help. But the gcode on the SD card should print rather well. Photos showing what you are seeing are invaluable to get good help. As is search the forums for similar questions before posting new ones.