"ERR: MINTEMP", not loose wires, possibly the EINSY(?) board?  

RE: "ERR: MINTEMP", not loose wires, possibly the EINSY(?) board?

Is there any way I could use the unused Therm1 socket instead?

RE: "ERR: MINTEMP", not loose wires, possibly the EINSY(?) board?

I think there is by making your own firmware I remember while ago someone wanted to do same thing if you post on forum someone might be able to guide you with more experience might be worth ago before buying new board 

RE: "ERR: MINTEMP", not loose wires, possibly the EINSY(?) board?

Ahh, thanks 🙂

I was kind of hoping for something less involved - maybe a GCODE command (or similar) 😉

RE: "ERR: MINTEMP", not loose wires, possibly the EINSY(?) board?

Unfortunately I don't believe there is one you can always post thread but probably get response of code firmware 

RE: "ERR: MINTEMP", not loose wires, possibly the EINSY(?) board?

Hi, I have the same problem. 

I was hoping to reassign T0 to T3 in the firmware or replace the blown component.

Does anybody know how to edit the firmware or have a good link to share?

Does anybody know what component this is and its value, or have a link to share?

Thanks in advance!

RE: "ERR: MINTEMP", not loose wires, possibly the EINSY(?) board?

Update:

I fixed it!
My hands are a bit shaky, so this is the worst soldering job I have ever done. I is also the smallest soldering job I have ever done.

I removed the surface mount component from the unused thermistor port and placed it on T0. One of the traces from where the original part blew were destroyed, but I managed to determine that it connects directly to the left pin on T0. As you can see, it is anything but professional, but it works now!

RE: "ERR: MINTEMP", not loose wires, possibly the EINSY(?) board?

excellent botch! lol...

was it aa brass brush that shorted the heater to the thermistor cirtcuit?

RE: "ERR: MINTEMP", not loose wires, possibly the EINSY(?) board?

For those that shorted the hotend thermistor while cleaning with a wire brush, you can use the other unused thermistor connector by reassigning the pins and rebuilding the firmware.

Specifically, you must swap the TEMP_1 and TEMP_0 pins just as I did here: https://github.com/esauvisky/Prusa-Tweaked-Firmware/commit/15b23e5f279d0ccc3bbfe434a7621e330bca7a33

This happened with my MK3S+ a couple of years ago, and it had been working perfectly fine until today when it happened again. 🤦

Unfortunately, there aren't any other unused thermistor connectors in the board, so now I have no alternative other than troubleshooting the Einsy PCB and hoping I can replace whatever blew up. 😭 From what I read, that component is a fuse which explains why @electrosteele botch worked.

Be very careful when cleaning the hotend with wire brushes while the printer is turned on, because this can happen even when the hotend is idle/not heating. I definitely won't do it again without turning off the printer first, lol.

RE: "ERR: MINTEMP", not loose wires, possibly the EINSY(?) board?

Update on my situation.

Just a reminder, I managed to blow up both Thermistor 0 and Thermistor 1, so unfortunately, a software solution was no longer possible for me.

Looking at the board and schematics below, I identified the damaged components—FB38 and FB39. These components are Ferrite Beads, which, in this specific case, are primarily used for noise suppression. The good news is that you can safely replace them with a 0Ω short.

What does this mean?

In practice, it just means you need to establish a connection between the rightmost pin of the thermistor connector and any available ground path on the circuit.

Initially, I attempted to short the pads directly from the top side of the PCB, but that didn’t work—likely because the thin PCB tracks were also damaged when the event occurred. The better and cleaner approach was to flip the board and bodge the connection from the underside.

I’ve highlighted some ground pads and pins in red in the image below and the thermistor unconnected pads to guide the soldering process.

Be sure to take care while soldering, ensuring the wire is only in contact with the two pads it's meant to bridge. I found that using thin copper wire is perfect for this job. Just remember to either burn or melt the insulation to guarantee proper contact:

Here’s the final result:

Once you’ve made the connections, you can confirm everything is working by using a multimeter. Set it to continuity mode (the one that beeps) and ensure that when you probe the right pin of the broken thermistor connector, it beeps against any of the four large connectors at the bottom of the board that are linked to the power supply.

That’s all!

This fixed my issue and I’m back up and running. Hopefully, this will help others with a similar problem!