e3d heating element
It was a question of time before this happened - it's happened with all the printers I've had. Misprints/print-failures put so much melted plastic on the heating block of the e3d that I had to take it off to clean it. Unfortunately, the block was so damaged by burnt in plastic that screws were in-accessible and in my attempts to get to things, the heating element wires and the sensor wires eventually broke off. At that point I already knew the heating block had to be replaced - too much char-coal filament, which had resulted in very bad extrusions - the symptom that got me looking for the issue.
So, I thought I had e3d heating blocks but they're not 100% the size with the MK3. Also, the documentation seems to speak about a "Prusa edition" which I'm not sure what is. I'm not in need of the top part -just the heating block and the heating element w/wires. It looks like the blocks I have will fit the winded element that goes into the cooling block - but I'm not sure.
1) It doesn't look like Prusa offers the heating elements without getting a lot of additional stuff. So what do I need to look for to just replace the heating element?
2) Wiring really is bad - I have to take the whole wires off into the controller board. Is there an option where you can mount the wires at the extruder so you can replace/fix the extruder without taking pretty much every thing on the carriage apart (as I have now)? It was very very hard to get the hotend out of the carriage - I remember it being hard to put it in when I assembled it too. So is there another option for the carriage? I've seen something like this used on printer customization: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Connector-Breakout-Board-terminals/dp/B01BAHLWZ8 (you'll need one in each end). It would allow you to easy detach the cable from the extruder carriage, replace components on the carriage without running lines all the way to the board.
That said, I really like how robust the cable mount is on the MK3 , I wouldn't be interested in something that make the wires more flimsy.
As to how this happened - I came down a few days ago to find the hot-end burried mid print inside a large piece. Over the last week several big mis-prints happened where filament got stuck on the hotend and dragged around - several times the hole hot-end was totally covered by the time I got a fan error and printing stopped. I've found that power failures aren't noticed - the printer has stopped with full heat on the elements after a momentary supply hickup that caused lights to blink but nothing else. In other words, this didn't happend because of one failed print. I've had way too many print failures over the last month, and it looks like the accumulation of filament on the hotend was causing it. Yeah I feel rather dumb for not checking the hotend better after the failures. Lesson learned for me.
Re: e3d heating element
Hi Peter,
heaters can be bought from Prusa, BUT you have to be logged into the eshop website to see them
E3d have distributers in many countries, they may be able to help. https://e3d-online.com/resellers
there are 2 versions of genuine E3dv6 heat block, the early version had a bead thermistor, the later one, has a cartridge thermistor.
yours should have the cartridge thermistor
Ebay and Aliexpress sell loads of hot ends that they claim to be compatible... they are different sizes...
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: e3d heating element
it's probably good to get a spare thermistor, as the wiring is fragile.
the prusa setup doesn't have a connector at the hotend, the e3d version does have a connector... some people buy the e3d version and cut the connector out, re soldering the wires and heat shrink insulating them!
a couple of folk have made quick release modifications.
with varying success
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: e3d heating element
Had this happen to me a few days ago. Pretty much ruined some of the extruded parts and I had to reprint them. I purchased a new thermistor, heater cartridge, and heat block. Go everything installed today and now when I run through the wizard it’s telling me that the “heater/thermister’ Is not connected. Any thoughts/suggestions?
Re: e3d heating element
Hmmm... could be either... I expect you get the message a short while after you set the extruder to heat...
does the extruder temperature match the heatbed temperature when un heated?
if it under reports the temperature the thermistor might be on the wrong socket.
can you use the settings temperature nozzle LCD Menu option to try and heat the nozzle to say 60Centigrade, then check the temperature display does it start to change?, does the hot end start to get hot?
if the hot end gets hot but the thermistor doesn't change it's a thermistor circuit problem
if the hot end doesn't get hot, can you blow a hot hair dryer on the heat block? this should soon show if the thermistor is working...
hopefully by now, you know which you are chasing.
did the new heater have a pre installed plug? or pre installed ferrule connectors? if not, did you strip back the insulation far enough?
let us know what you find and we will offer more things to check!
Regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: e3d heating element
I think I figured it out, well I don’t know for sure till I get a new heater element. I ordered a 12v 40w and I think I needed a 24v? We will see.
Re: e3d heating element
I think I figured it out, well I don’t know for sure till I get a new heater element. I ordered a 12v 40w and I think I needed a 24v? We will see.
For the MK3 you need the 24V 40W heater cartridge, 12V will not work.
Re: e3d heating element
I think I figured it out, well I don’t know for sure till I get a new heater element. I ordered a 12v 40w and I think I needed a 24v? We will see.
For the MK3 you need the 24V 40W heater cartridge, 12V will not work.
You can also use the 24v 30w heater as well. I have the "premium" heater which has a disconnect on it to allow me to removed the hotend completely without having to undo the wire bundle. https://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/e3d-heater-cartridge?variant=1101493403663
It takes a little longer to heat up, but other than that, it works perfectly fine in my MK3.
Re: e3d heating element
It was a question of time before this happened - it's happened with all the printers I've had. Misprints/print-failures put so much melted plastic on the heating block of the e3d that I had to take it off to clean it.
Perhaps a tad non sequitur (or perhaps not), would silicone heat block socks help lessen/prevent this--or would they make it worse?
Product description claims (among other things): Made of a heat-resistant, non-stick silicone material our socks will repel build-up of molten plastic. This really helps with sticky materials like Co-Polyesters and filled materials that like to build up on nozzles.
That's "MISTER Old Fart" to you!
Re: e3d heating element
Thanks for the info everyone. I’m gonna try the silicone sock, so we’ll see how it goes.
Re: e3d heating element
Thanks for the info everyone. I’m gonna try the silicone sock, so we’ll see how it goes.
Shop around. I found some pretty good deals when I looked a couple weeks ago.
Also be aware there are 2 versions; one covers the nozzle, the other doesn't. The one that covers the nozzle can cause some problems if the filament gets under it. Last I saw, E3D was recommending that version only for their experimental 0.15mm nozzle.
That's "MISTER Old Fart" to you!
Re: e3d heating element
Thanks for the info everyone. I’m gonna try the silicone sock, so we’ll see how it goes.
Shop around. I found some pretty good deals when I looked a couple weeks ago.
Also be aware there are 2 versions; one covers the nozzle, the other doesn't. The one that covers the nozzle can cause some problems if the filament gets under it. Last I saw, E3D was recommending that version only for their experimental 0.15mm nozzle.
Yeah, I can vouch for that. It's problematic in other ways in that it is difficult to get it to hook up around the top of the block to secure it. I ended up wrapping a thin wire around it to help secure it, which worked for a while, but ended up still getting filament under it causing a sporadic heat control. I've since removed it and I'm already planing on getting the version with the larger hole.