Re: Dream Experience Turned to Nightmare
Dry your filament before printing for an ooze-free experience! And use a drybox.
Otherwise, you can set your startup code to do the mesh bed leveling at just 160°C. There is usually no ooze below this temperature. After leveling, you then have to heat up to the desired temperature.
Re: Dream Experience Turned to Nightmare
Finally had some time to implement everyone's suggestions. I also did a factory reset at the recommendation of Support. Glad to report I got it working again. I will temper my excitement until I get several successful prints, had a false positive alarm before. I will say, that whenever there is filament loaded, either during the first layer calibration, a print or what have you, I feel like too much filament oozes out. This has nothing to do with my settings (since we can't control that during first layer calibration) and I am using Prusa filament with Prusa settings. Filament sticks to the nozzle way too easily on this printer. Is there any type of treatment that can be done to the nozzle so it doesnt stick so badly to the outside of the nozzle?
Thanks for all the help.
Below is the startup gcode I use. I had the exact same problem with ooze during startup and leveling. Note that I warm the bed to temp first, then warm the extruder. It takes a bit longer, but is somewhat less stressful on the power supply. Also note that bringing the extruder to final temp, after bed leveling is done at Z=+30 to keep from cooking the same spot on the bed every time I start a print.
M115 U3.4.0 ; tell printer latest fw version
M83 ; extruder relative mode
;;customized, no ooze startup begins here
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M104 S170; set extruder temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S170 ; wait for extruder temp
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G80 ; mesh bed leveling
G1 Y-3.0 Z30 F1000.0 ; go outside print area, higher Z to keep from cooking the bed
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G1 Y-3.0 Z0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
;;standard Prusa gcode from here on
G92 E0.0
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
G92 E0.0
M221 S{if layer_height==0.05}100{else}95{endif}
Re: Dream Experience Turned to Nightmare
I have done 2 things that seem to help with filament attachment to the nozzle and or heater block
First I added the blue e3d silicone heater block cover I have mentioned elsewhere
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B674TJC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have just replaced the e3d brass nozzle supplied with the printer with this Plated copper version
here is the bumpf from e3d on it
Genuine E3D Parts
V6 Plated Copper Nozzles
Durable, non-stick, high temperature performance nozzles
This copper alloy is very temperature resilient, and will not start to soften or anneal until way beyond 500°C
These nozzles will fit V6, Lite6, and Titan Aero HotEnds, and are compatible with Prusa 3D printers
Product description
These nozzles are engineered for ultimate high temperature performance. Made from a special high temperature copper-alloy with a softening point of well above 500°C, and with much-increased thermal conductivity these copper nozzles are perfect for high temperature applications, while working perfectly with everyday filaments like PLA, ABS and spoolWorks EDGE.
In addition to high temperature performance these nozzles have an advanced nickel based plating, considerably reducing the adhesion of plastic to the nozzle. This is great for everyday filaments keeping things clean and shiny, but is particularly important at temperatures above 300°C where a silicone sock can't be used.
Copper has more than 3x the thermal conductivity of brass, and the copper alloy we use has been hardened and treated to reduce the oxidation that occurs in copper at high temperatures. The higher thermal conductivity will also slightly increase your heat-up times, and can provide tighter temperature control.
This copper-alloy is very temperature resilient, and will not start to soften or anneal until way beyond 500°C, making it perfect for the high-temperature printing that other nozzles can't handle.
Re: Dream Experience Turned to Nightmare
That bit of code looks really interesting. I've never done that before. Also I was looking at getting that Copper nozzle from E3D. Glad to here it has helped. Did you have to make any adjustments to how you print? I saw a video from CNC Kitchen that mentioned you had to temperature re-calibration the hot end after putting on the silicone sock.
Re: Dream Experience Turned to Nightmare
heater block temp seems to be more stable and varies at +- 1 deg C vrs perhaps a 3C swing before I used the blue snood and the plated copper does seem to pickup less snot than the plain brass that came with the printer.