Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
So the other day I realized my printer was making clicking sounds so I went to check on in and sure enough it wasn't extruding. I stopped the print then took a look in the extruder door and saw that the extruder ground the filament completely apart. I had to trim the thickened part of the filament to remove it from the top, then I also trimmed the thickened part near the ptfe tube and heated the hotend to 250c and tried to push the remaining filament through the hotend, but it wouldn't budge. So now I figured my only option is to remove the nozzle, I followed the instructions in the guide to remove it, pre-heating, loosening the heat block, then attempted to unscrew the nozzle. Then the worst happened... as soon as it came loose I realized something was wrong... it has snapped off and left the thread inside the heat block... (and no I didn't use those needle nos pliers to remove it, I used a 7mm socket as recommended.) I have no idea if this is covered by warranty, but I am pretty sure I have to replace the heat block and nozzle now.
Best Answer by Bunny Science:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FJW9343/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Gives you all the fixings, however the heat break may be slightly different internally from Prusa's. Prusa has special version intended to produce smaller filament ends with MMU2S. Then again some swear the non-Prusa version is less prone to clogging during standalone usage.
Verify that you are getting the 24 volt version!!!!!!
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
Not warranty ... but you could ask.
If the hot end wasn't at 285c, the nozzle will break. And about the only time the nozzle breaks is when someone tries to remove it with the hot end cold. Also, this usually has a high chance of bending the heat break, too. And the heat break doesn't come out unless the nozzle is first loose. So best to take it all apart and do a full inspection while waiting for the new heater block, heat break, and nozzle from Amazon.
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
The manual that came with mine said 250c - 285c :/ where can I even order a replacement heater block and nozzle? Like what versions/models do I look for so I know it will be compatible?
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
The manual that came with mine said 250c - 285c :/ where can I even order a replacement heater block and nozzle? Like what versions/models do I look for so I know it will be compatible?
Log in to the Prusa online store. All the parts are there.
and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
I see replacement nozzles, but no heater blocks.
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
I would go ahead and order an entire hot end assembly. They are not that much more than the individual bits needed. Factor in the reaming from shipping costs and may as well just do it and throw in a spare heater cartridge and thermistor as well.
Why? Whenever you completely take apart the hot end or change nozzles, you risk also damaging the heater cartridge and thermistor. They are also limited life span parts that you will eventually need to replace anyways.
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
Don't suppose you have any Amazon recommendations? Or just e3d?
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FJW9343/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Gives you all the fixings, however the heat break may be slightly different internally from Prusa's. Prusa has special version intended to produce smaller filament ends with MMU2S. Then again some swear the non-Prusa version is less prone to clogging during standalone usage.
Verify that you are getting the 24 volt version!!!!!!
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
Yeah probably a good idea. I have no idea how you are supposed to remove the heat break from the heater block. Also is it just me or on the mk3s do you just about have to completely disassemble the print head assembly to remove the hotend?
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
On MK3S, it's not quite a complete tear apart like MK3, but you still have to....
Undo entire cable bundle
Remove fans
Remove extruder cover
Remove motor plate
Well... I guess that's darn close to a full tear down.
Think of it as a chance to get even more familiar with the machine.
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
Lol I got enough of that when I assembled it
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
A full hot end was in the $100 range from Prusa, but tack on $20 shipping. The same (with a better heat break and a new fan) is available from E3D or via Amazon.
I'm not recommending this, a "kit" of parts I came by: $63 - but doesn't include heater or thermistor. Ordering from Prusa will get those with the correct cable lengths. Here's the E3D =-V6 complete kit,
Full kit - $68
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-All-Metal-HotEnd-Universal/dp/B07FJW9343
Prusa Assembly: $80 + shipping
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/932-mk3s-e3d-v61-assembled-hotend.html
Prusa Parts: Heater Block & Heatbreak & Nozzle
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/175-e3d-heater-block-v6.html
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/202-e3d-heatbreak-multimaterial-mk3.html
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/i3-accessories-mk3s-mk25s-etc/89-e3d-v6-nozzle.html
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
Awesome, thanks so much for the help. I didn't realize I had to be logged in to see those parts in the shop. I will probably get the e3d kit from Amazon and hope my cables are still good.
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
You can probably just reuse your existing heater and thermistor. They should still be good. And easy to pull from the heater block because you haven't been printing long. Just be careful pulling the parts and watch how you flex the wires - they don't like bending back and forth. And if you order the E3D parts - make sure you get the 40w 24v heater. Some only have 30w heaters.
Ordering from Prusa is optimal, especially if you want to fix it fast, but their shipping can add to the cost.
So key details when buying E3D:
E3D-V6 model.
40W 24v heater.
Thermistor, not PT100 sensor.
RE: Clog/jam then nozzle broke...
Prusa has special version intended to produce smaller filament ends with MMU2S. Then again some swear the non-Prusa version is less prone to clogging during standalone usage.
The Prusa Special has a larger diameter in the cold zone, and it allows filament with "hair" at the end that's folded back feed easier with less jamming. If you don't own an MMU, it is more trouble than it's worth (personal experience)
That's my theory and I'm sticking with it ... lol.