At my wit's end with Z-leveling issues (I think?) and general serious decline in print quality. Please help.
Hi everyone, I've been the owner of a Prusa MK3+ for several months now, and mostly I've had incredible results with it, until recently that is. For some background, it's not my first printer, and I'd generally assess my overall experience level as "intermediate" at this point, although I'm still prone to some really stupid mistakes frankly.
Recently, one such mistake came in the form of me thinking I could solve a print fan error issue with a factory reset (long story short, it was actually a very simple problem I could've solved in seconds, I wasted time waiting for a replacement in the end, and I really don't want to talk too much about the whole catastrophe here). I don't need to be told I'm an idiot, because I'm well aware now and suffering the consequences, trust me.
Somehow (don't really get how), resetting everything did something weird to the Z-leveling, I checked the PINDA to make sure and it seems to be exactly where I set it in when I first got the printer (ftr, I bought the pre-assembled model, not the DIY kit), so that can't be it (also I don't know why a software reset would affect manual adjustments like that). I had to live adjust Z to like an absurdly close offset (-1.900 I think) just to get my prints to not be spaghetti, but even *that* is maybe still not enough, because about 40% of my prints now are turning get caught on the nozzle, turning to a sticky mess of slag, and just getting utterly ruined and wasting more filament than I probably even did starting out. I've tried tweaking all sorts of settings besides the Z offset (temperature in both the nozzle and bed, Z lift, speed, no fan on the first few layers to increase adhesion, brims, not crossing perimeters; I think just about the only major suggestion I haven't tried yet is adjusting the flow rate, but I'm a little nervous about tweaking that too much). I tried cleaning and unclogging the nozzle (both with a needle and cold pull), and still no dice. This is happening just with regular PLA, even Prusament PLA, which I always consistently got the best prints with previously. It's also happening on prints that really shouldn't provide much challenge to the printer.
Just, what do I *do*??? I don't want to go to tech support yet just because I did that with the fan thing and it turned out to be much ado about nothing, so I'd rather rule out every simple problem first before I go there. Any suggestions for what I could've missed? Other settings I should try tweaking, it's like even on "successful" prints I'm getting these globs and strings everywhere that mostly weren't happening before all this, and it's not wet filament either, because even brand new spools and ones I've dried out have been having these problems.
Please tell me there's something I'm missing here?
RE: At my wit's end with Z-leveling issues (I think?) and general serious decline in print quality. Please help.
oh, also, for some reason I can't get my computer to recognize the printer as a device when I plug it in with the USB connector, so if this is a firmware thing, I'll also need to tackle whatever's going on there.
RE: At my wit's end with Z-leveling issues (I think?) and general serious decline in print quality. Please help.
check the LC Settings, is the raspberry pi port turned on?
if it is, the serial port functionality is disabled.
Regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE:
Just checked now, and no, the Raspberry pi port is off.
RE:
Also, I should note that on the prints where I'm having issues with them getting stuck to the nozzle tip, lifted off the print bed, and generally ruined, the issue actually seems to often occur fairly late in the print (although I did recently have one where it seemed like extra strings of filament were dripping onto the print on the first few layers, which then leads to a compounding problem where the layers above get more and more displaced, and before long the whole print is destroyed). Really, I never had so many issues with whole stray strings of filament disrupting prints like this previously, like sometimes I had some issues with minor stringing (like fine "cobwebs" on the small features of prints, the kind that don't wreck the whole thing and can be easily dealt with in post-processing), but nothing like this where filament is just ending up in the wrong places it seems like.
Also I have paid some mind to the adhesion properties of the bed. I'm using the steel sheet that came with the printer, and have tried cleaning it with both 90% IPA and a small amount of dish soap and water like I've seen suggested, and I've even tried preparing the surface with a glue stick (which previously when I've run into adhesion issues usually did the trick), but I'm *still* running into the problems of prints getting gunked up and adhering to the nozzle and pulling right off the bed, even when I stop cooling on the first 2 or 3 layers to make sure they're really bound to it. I guess my next attempt will be raising the bed temperature from 60 to 70 C, but I feel like that can't be the whole problem here, and it shouldn't need to be that hot just for PLA like this.
RE: At my wit's end with Z-leveling issues (I think?) and general serious decline in print quality. Please help.
do you actually know rhat the heatbed temperature is?
or do you rely on a cheap thermistor, accurately guessing the temperature?
there are three min parameters which control adhesion for PLA,
Bed cleanliness, I use soap and water rinse with water, dry with plain paper and use immediately, no alcohol, no glue, no hairspray, no snake oil...
First layer configuration. and build plate temperature.
get them right and you rarely have problems with Adhesion...
Have you ever done a temperature tower? If yes, why... (because different printer, filament, environment combinations work better than others, trying different build plate temperatures is a similar situation,
PLA 'Can' be printed on a cold build plate... but not if the build plate is PEI!
Good luck,
Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: At my wit's end with Z-leveling issues (I think?) and general serious decline in print quality. Please help.
Have to ask, any reason for no alcohol? I primarily use that with occasional soap and water.
Mini+MK3S+XL 5 Tool
RE: At my wit's end with Z-leveling issues (I think?) and general serious decline in print quality. Please help.
Have to ask, any reason for no alcohol? I primarily use that with occasional soap and water.
I’m with @joantabb on dish soap and hot water cleaning, no alcohol after washing is needed. Just dry thoroughly with clean paper towels and handle the plate by the edges.
I use 91% IPA between prints, as needed to maintain adhesion. When that stops working, back to the sink.
Cheers
RE: At my wit's end with Z-leveling issues (I think?) and general serious decline in print quality. Please help.
@aislingspektor -
It sounds like you have a myriad of issues causing the print failures you’re having. A dirty build plate could be a contributing factor. To get it really clean, wash it with Dawn (in the USA, Fairy in the UK) dish detergent, plenty of hot water, and a brand new, unused sponge with a green or blue ‘rough’ textured pad on one side, like the ‘scotch brite’ sponges. Do a deep clean with lots of soap and water to rinse off. Dry with clean paper towels and handle by the edges only.
Next, it sounds like your Pinda needs to be adjusted upwards by about one thread. Being at -1.9 and still not getting a good squish on your first layer will cause no end of problems. Going beyond-2.0 will cause unpredictable results and is not recommended. Go through the Prusa pre-flight check and adjust per the instructions here:
https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_95128
I find the easiest way to move the Pinda is to loosen the adjustment screw and insert a small flat blade screwdriver into the gap at the rear of the mount, using it to gently pry the mount open to move the Pinda up or down, one thread at a time.
Next, mak
RE: At my wit's end with Z-leveling issues (I think?) and general serious decline in print quality. Please help.
My post got cutoff midway thru…
Too late to go back now. I’ll try to circle back and re-post in the morning.
Cheers
RE: At my wit's end with Z-leveling issues (I think?) and general serious decline in print quality. Please help.
Okay, I’m back with more…
Try doing a couple of cold pulls to be sure there’s no filament stuck in the nozzle or the feed path. If you’re unsure how to do this there are plenty of YouTube videos and forum posts that describe the process.
Check the nozzle to insure it’s not dirty or covered in old burned plastic. You can heat it to print temperature and go over it with a nylon or brass brush to clean off any old accumulated gunk. The brass brush will work better but be extremely careful with this technique. It’s possible to short out the thermistor or heater cartridge to the heat block if a brass bristle contacts a wire. If you’re careful to just contact the nozzle and bottom of the heat block with a new brass brush, you should be fine. But you have been warned. Users have reported frying a component on the Einsy board using this method.
Once the nozzle is clean, check to insure it’s tight to the heat-break with a slight gap between the flat base of the nozzle and the heat block. At the same time, check to insure the heat block isn’t loose or wobbly. See this link:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle-mk2-5s-mk3s-mk3s_2069
Of course, use caution around the heated components. It’s easy to get burned.
Check to make sure there is no molten plastic flowing over the top of the heat block and dripping down the sides and onto your prints. This can happen with a loose nozzle or heat block. You can use your smart phone camera to take a pic looking up from the bed to inspect this area.
If the nozzle is worn, dirty, blackened or otherwise suspect, you should replace it, using the method shown in the link above. You can find an original E3D replacement nozzle at Prusa, Amazon, or one of the online distributors in your country.
I replaced my nozzle with a nickel plated copper nozzle from E3D and I’m pretty happy with the results. It seems a bit less prone to filament sticking to it than the old brass nozzle. I can’t be sure if it’s the nickel plate or the simple fact that it’s new, but it made a difference. A new nozzle is an inexpensive and good way to refresh your printer.
Finally, make sure your Z height is properly dialed in. If you replace the nozzle, adjust the Pinda, or make any other physical changes to the printer, you’ll have to run an XYZ calibration and do a live adjust Z anyway. Use the built-in live adjust Z routine to get close, then try the well regarded ‘Life Adjust Z - my way’ calibration found here for fine tuning:
Good luck, and keep us apprised of your progress.
Cheers
RE: At my wit's end with Z-leveling issues (I think?) and general serious decline in print quality. Please help.
s, I wasted time waiting for a replacement in the end
Hiya @aislingspektor
Question for you, when you did the hotend replacement did you double check the pinda probe to make sure it was still at the correct height? If you change the hotend or nozzle, it is always a good idea to double check the pinda probe height to make sure it is correct and if you make changes, then re-run the first layer calibration . Near the end of this article, step 17, shows how to set the correct height
https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-superpinda-mk3s-mk3s_179920
Shane (AKA FromPrusa)
RE: At my wit's end with Z-leveling issues (I think?) and general serious decline in print quality. Please help.
Have to ask, any reason for no alcohol? I primarily use that with occasional soap and water.
The argument against using alcohol is that unless used in copious quantities will simply move the grease around. The best advice I got when starting was JoanTabb's suggestion of boiling water and washingup liquid. I go for belt and braces, boiling water and dish soap every once in awhile and IPA wiped left to right and front to back every 10 ish prints or if adhesion is not 100%. Intervals vary with amount of printing.