7x7 firmware hack problem
I seem to have struck out attempting the 7x7 change with the Pretty PLA 3.5 I flashed with Prusa-Firmware-3.5.1-7x7.hex and then imported the 3.5 pretty PLA 3.5a and sliced a test file and loaded it from the SD card... the printer homes heats to 160 and 65 and just sits there after 5 min I canceled it and came here to report my abject failure at what everyone else has done with ease. tomorrow I will try again but I don’t see where I screwed up. Any ideas?
Re: 7x7 firmware hack problem
What is your custom start G-code?
I'm wondering if it is simply stuck waiting for too high a PINDA temperature for PLA
Re: 7x7 firmware hack problem
That definitely sounds like PINDA warmup. Unfortunately, the Prusa firmware doesn't seem to support M117 messages, so there's no way to display anything to the user. My own gcode waits for the PINDA to hit 35C, which can take a long time on the first print of the day during cold weather. If your environment is chillier than usual, this will definitely exacerbate things. Look for an M860 in startup to see what temp it's looking for. Assuming one is there, you can check your current PINDA temp under settings. I don't see the Pretty PLA 3.5 profile on GitHub, so can't check it out.
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He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan
Re: 7x7 firmware hack problem
Thanks guys that makes sense the pretty PLA 3.5a is in the files of the Prusa community Facebook group.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/prusacommunity/permalink/921353048205428/
I will try editing that Pinda heat line from 35 to 30 the room I print in this time of year is at 16 to 17 c I guess that might be a factor the Pinda gets its heat via radiant heating form the bed and the heater block I guess. I have a e3d sock on my plated copper block and nozzle so that too might be a factor.
Re: 7x7 firmware hack problem
You could try bumping the warmup bed temp instead. I used to use 60C until we got to the winter temps, but I upped it to 65C when waits got too long. Depending on the how the warmup routine is written, it should drop to the desired bed temp for printing once the leveling is complete.
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He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan
Re: 7x7 firmware hack problem
Hi Randolph,
this is the PINDA heating code that I use and it works well for me ... have a look if you like how that compares to the one from Facebook.
;------------------------------BEGIN "PINDA heating code"
G28 W ; MUST FIRST home all without mesh bed level or else risk nozzle crash!
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder heater
M140 S0 ; turn off bed heater
M106 S255 ; for PINDA cooling turn fan to 100%
G0 Z100 ; move to PINDA cooling position
M860 S30 ; wait until PINDA is <= 30 deg C
M107 ; turn fan off
G0 X150 Y50 Z0.15 ; this is a good PINDA heating position, it warms faster near the bed
M104 S180 ; preheat extruder to no ooze temp to help warm up the PINDA
M140 S85 ; set bed temp for print to get the right thermal expansion of the bed and to help warm up the PINDA
M109 S180 ; wait for extruder temp
M190 S85 ; wait for bed temp
M860 S35 ; wait for PINDA temp ... for most stable PINDA temp during mesh bed leveling, set temp here 1-2 deg below your actual PINDA temp at end of the mesh bed calibration
M104 S140 ; drop extruder to lower temp to minimize PINDA temp rise during mesh
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G80 N7 ; 7x7 mesh bed leveling
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
G92 E0.0
G1 Z3 ; raise head safely clear of bed before heating extruder
M104 S230 ; heat extruder for print AFTER mesh bed leveling to minimize ooze
M109 S230 ; wait for extruder temp
G1 Z0.5 ; move slightly above bed for easy clean intro line
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
M73 Q0 S26
M73 P0 R26
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
G92 E0.0
M221 S95 ; the 'magic' factory-built correction factor to compensate for 5% over-extrusion
;------------------------------END "PINDA heating code"
This one is for PETG, that is why the bed temp is at 85 degC.
As Bob also mentioned I change the heat-up phase temps for extruder and/or bed (but normally I want the bed at the correct printing temp for theG80 bed leveling command) in case it takes too long. You can follow up on the PINDA temp in the support menue on the LCD.
Hope this helps,
Mark
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MK3 kit B7-R3 / custom FW v3.5.1 with 7x7 MBL
Slic3r PE v1.41.2
Re: 7x7 firmware hack problem
Guys Thanks a lot low room temperature is exactly the problem I brought the room temp up to 18c and positioned the head at the home position and selected PLA preheat to 215 and 60 for 5 min and then selected the job from the SD card and it started the 7 x 7 almost immediately after the nozzle had cooled down to 165. the improvement in the first layer on a print that covers the bed to the edges is just amazing... I wonder how long it will be until Prusa rolls this into the release firmware.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/prusacommunity/permalink/921353048205428/
this is the start G code from the Pretty PLA 3.5a after I dropped the M860 S30 from M860 S35
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M109 S160 ; Set extruder temp before bed level
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
M860 S30 ; Wait for Pinda to reach 35C before leveling
G80 N7 ; mesh bed leveling 7x7
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
G92 E0.0
G1 E8 ; Purge Bubble
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
G92 E0.0
Re: 7x7 firmware hack problem
I had the same problem where the printer was just sitting there waiting. I found by looking in the menu that my pinda temp was reading 0. Ended up having a broken temp signaling wire in the pinda cable. If I removed the wait for temp part in the gcode it worked just fine. Replaced the pinda.