Ugly prints on prusa i3 mk3s  

Re: Ugly prints on prusa i3 mk3s

On the cone, you are seeing a seam; set the slicer to do a linear seam instead of closest, or print it vase mode.

The fur on the stirrer looks like a filament issue; some filaments want lower or higher print temps and you need to explore what works best for each brand and color of filament. Or, just live with the results not being ideal.

For some furry parts, a heat gun will cure the "fuzz" quickly and easily; just be careful to not overdo the heat and melt the part.

Also - it is normal for belts to loosen in the first few weeks and they need to be retensioned.

Re: Ugly prints on prusa i3 mk3s

On the cone, you are seeing a seam; set the slicer to do a linear seam instead of closest, or print it vase mode.

The fur on the stirrer looks like a filament issue; some filaments want lower or higher print temps and you need to explore what works best for each brand and color of filament. Or, just live with the results not being ideal.

For some furry parts, a heat gun will cure the "fuzz" quickly and easily; just be careful to not overdo the heat and melt the part.

Also - it is normal for belts to loosen in the first few weeks and they need to be retensioned.

Hi I don’t get what you mean by the fur etc but I tried it with many different filament with the same poor quality on many prints especially on simple prints like a tube or a rectangle box etc

Re: Ugly prints on prusa i3 mk3s

Fur is the stray whiskers on your part.

Have you printed any of the included gcode files, like Benchy, the Frog? e.g., I see an Adlinda - did you slice it or did you print the gcode?

Re: Ugly prints on prusa i3 mk3s

Fur is the stray whiskers on your part.

Have you printed any of the included gcode files, like Benchy, the Frog? e.g., I see an Adlinda - did you slice it or did you print the gcode?

I used the gcode included in the sd card
Printed many objects but all had the same issues of wired lines etc

Re: Ugly prints on prusa i3 mk3s

Fur is the stray whiskers on your part.

Have you printed any of the included gcode files, like Benchy, the Frog? e.g., I see an Adlinda - did you slice it or did you print the gcode?

I used the gcode included in the sd card
Printed many objects but all had the same issues of wired lines etc

Is it the layer lines you are concerned about? I have the same issue when I use cheap filament, within the 300 or so meters on a roll there can be variation in filament diameter which leads to inconsistent filament volume, half a roll might give great prints and the other half might be all over the palce. I use Prusament almost exclusively now and my prints are super smooth.

Re: Ugly prints on prusa i3 mk3s

The egg has two issues: one, the model has polygons showing; two, the filament is showing extrusion layer lines.

Both are normal aspects of FDM printing. A higher resolution model will help with polygons showing, and they are not a defect in the printer. The layer lines can be improved by printing smaller layers, and ensuring the printer is properly adjusted. Also, cheaper filament is prone to having rather large diameter changes along its length. The printer has no way of knowing if the diameter is changing - so extrusions come out different widths, and this affects surface quality. But belts that are a bit loose can also cause positional errors and rough looking surfaces.

The best test to show what the printer can do is to use the Silver Prusa filament that came with the printer: and print out the 50um Tree Frog gcode:

MK3_PLA_Treefrog_50um_3H_40M.gcode

Re: Ugly prints on prusa i3 mk3s

The egg has two issues: one, the model has polygons showing; two, the filament is showing extrusion layer lines.

Both are normal aspects of FDM printing. A higher resolution model will help with polygons showing, and they are not a defect in the printer. The layer lines can be improved by printing smaller layers, and ensuring the printer is properly adjusted. Also, cheaper filament is prone to having rather large diameter changes along its length. The printer has no way of knowing if the diameter is changing - so extrusions come out different widths, and this affects surface quality. But belts that are a bit loose can also cause positional errors and rough looking surfaces.

The best test to show what the printer can do is to use the Silver Prusa filament that came with the printer: and print out the 50um Tree Frog gcode:

MK3_PLA_Treefrog_50um_3H_40M.gcode

hi the thing is my printer is having trouble with printing using the original silver prusa filament
every model i print using that filament will fail halfway where it just stops extruding but using other filament it prints just fine
bought this printer assembled and it came with a shit load of problems which even prusa support cant fix i dont know what to do anymore

Re: Ugly prints on prusa i3 mk3s

To be honest, the prints you are showing don't look that bad; they aren't at all what I'd consider total fails. 3D printing has limits. One of them is visible lines in prints you make.

You haven't posted any failed prints with the silver. The words "it fails halfway" covers a pretty wide range of possible reasons. It would be helpful to see photos of those failed prints.

Printing is as much art as it is science. Some models are just hard to print. Yet others are extremely easy to print well. A smooth ball (or your egg) is probably the easiest to set up, yet extremely difficult to get to print well. I still struggle to get certain shapes to print well enough I am happy with them. It is frustrating at times.

Here is a frog, it's been painted, but lines are obvious:

Here is Adalina in two sizes:

And here's a human head: note the ear and bad finish above the back of the neck. Artifacts of FDM printing.

Re: Ugly prints on prusa i3 mk3s

To be honest, the prints you are showing don't look that bad; they aren't at all what I'd consider total fails. 3D printing has limits. One of them is visible lines in prints you make.

You haven't posted any failed prints with the silver. The words "it fails halfway" covers a pretty wide range of possible reasons. It would be helpful to see photos of those failed prints.

Printing is as much art as it is science. Some models are just hard to print. Yet others are extremely easy to print well. A smooth ball (or your egg) is probably the easiest to set up, yet extremely difficult to get to print well. I still struggle to get certain shapes to print well enough I am happy with them. It is frustrating at times.

Here is a frog, it's been painted, but lines are obvious:
IMG_20190405_130317466_HDR.jpg

Here is Adalina in two sizes:
IMG_20190405_130717879.jpg

And here's a human head: note the ear and bad finish above the back of the neck. Artifacts of FDM printing.
IMG_20190405_130420730.jpg

Re: Ugly prints on prusa i3 mk3s

I'm assuming the Benchy was still stuck to the bed while it was failing. But there are signs it came off the bed. Listing a few reasons why the extrusion may slow down with height.

1) Bondtech tension too loose. Have you adjusted the two Bondtech idler screws?
2) Plugged nozzle. Have you done a cold pull?
3) Broken wire in bundle. Were you watching nozzle temp when it happened? Did it stay near 210c?
4) Sometimes the printer can be sensitive to room temps, especially cool rooms. What is the temperature range where yours it running? PID Calibration might help.

Are you using the supplied spool holder that clips to the top frame?