Tired and indignant  

Re: Tired and indignant

It was sad that you thought my prints were crap. If your own prints are better than mine, I do not understand your criticism. I have really beautiful surfaces (Except my crappy edges on one part)
I am aware that my crappy edges are going to improve. I am also aware that different filaments provide different good results. Maybe that's why I put that part in my junk box.

I believe the crappy tone from his post was mostly frustration and internet prickishness, but there is some underlying truth to it. Looking at your prints, I would say they look better than most I have seen on these forums. If I were in your shoes and this was my first 3d printer, I would be in awe at it even; however, I have had cheaper printers before the MK3 that had less issues and better quality.

This is the quality we were expecting to get out of the MK3 for the price we paid: https://twitter.com/THEJATMN/status/907758695764828161 - I have nearly achieved it with opaque filament, but not translucent like this (imperfections show through).

Re: Tired and indignant

OK. Next Step:
I disassembled the print head, changed the nozzle, put it all together, reset the printer, calibrated the printer with the wizard and printed a test cube with the s3d settings from JP. Same shit.

No idea why you've done all this things. If you want start to understand how to improve your prints, print a thin wall with slow speed/acc/jerk and different orientations. Turn all the fancy features off. I have an impression that you randomly changing things and hope for a wonder. Play with retraction and temperature.

First step is to get an idea if there is a mechanical issue, flow issue or slice/gcode issue. Eliminating working things. There are already a lot of hints in this forum or S3D forum or any other sources available. Printing this calibration cube doesn't help you at all because it doesn't bring you closer to a solution.

Re: Tired and indignant

No idea why you've done all this things. If you want start to understand how to improve your prints, print a thin wall with slow speed/acc/jerk and different orientations. Turn all the fancy features off. I have an impression that you randomly changing things and hope for a wonder. Play with retraction and temperature.

First step is to get an idea if there is a mechanical issue, flow issue or slice/gcode issue. Eliminating working things. There are already a lot of hints in this forum or S3D forum or any other sources available. Printing this calibration cube doesn't help you at all because it doesn't bring you closer to a solution.

I am pretty sure that the problem is not my print settings. I don't know why I can't get a decent print quality on this machine.
If you, or someone else, could send me a small qcode file from something you think can be printed in a good quality, I would appreciate that.

Re: Tired and indignant

This is the quality we were expecting to get out of the MK3 for the price we paid: https://twitter.com/THEJATMN/status/907758695764828161 - I have nearly achieved it with opaque filament, but not translucent like this (imperfections show through).

You're right. We are looking at the examples like this and wandering if this guy used the same printer like me.
But does it apply to MK3 only? I made the same experience with my MK2. Sometimes I'm getting the same results like the picture from OP. But sometimes the layers look just perfect by using same printer/slicer profile. I know exactly it's a combination and trade of many things which leads to this results.
Sometimes I need higher temp for better adhesion, sometimes I just slow down and lower the temp for better quality. Sometimes the object is just not perfect suitable for FDM. Sometimes I hit a resonate frequency and get worse layers. All that things apply to MK3 as-well. It's a same design with almost identical components. To understand what's happening to the object you are printing right now and tweaking it, requires big effort and knowledge. And this is something everybody need to do by themselves. We can just provide some hints and directions.

Re: Tired and indignant

Ignore Spartacus, hopefully he will enjoy his A8's and move on...

RHDreambox, don't take it personal. Spartacus is only bitching around in this forum, check all his posts.
Keep up on improving and understanding that's why many people are here.

I believe the crappy tone from his post was mostly frustration and internet prickishness, but there is some underlying truth to it. Looking at your prints, I would say they look better than most I have seen on these forums. If I were in your shoes and this was my first 3d printer, I would be in awe at it even; however, I have had cheaper printers before the MK3 that had less issues and better quality.

Michael, Nikolai and Brigandier

Thank you for your support, but I do not take Spartacus's statement personally. I was just a little upset when it was written so much negative about MK3. There are some legitimate criticisms against MK3, for example, that the new R2 parts still have dimensional errors that we have pointed out.
Z motor holder whose motor is wrong placed sideways, and the filament path is 0.5 mm wrong through the bondtech drive wheel. If this can affect the printouts, I can not prove it, but it should be corrected.

It's regrettable that some have quality printing problems, but it's hard to give good tips because you do not know how many parameters in the slicer software they have "adjusted".
In the beginning I had terrible problems with Slic3r (blobs before the last update), but the problems disappeared when I switched to Simplify with FFF "Prusa Research Original Prusa i3 MK3.fff".
I also tested other FFF files with so-called "optimized" settings, but they were worse than the original.

Prusa's latest firmware updates and Slic3r work better for me so now I'm using both programs. But I'm careful to turn on some parameters before I know how they will affect my prints.

Re: Tired and indignant

Spartacus' statement may have been a bit harsh but it was right. You said this is your first printer, so the surfaces look good to you, but you don't have much to compare to.
I am in the same boat as Spartacus, coming from an ANET A8 that cost me $144. It is stock, other than printed upgrades(frame supports) and it prints the same quality as my $800 MK3.
Now, that does not tell the whole story. The MK3 is much easier to operate for a multitude of reasons, and is much quieter.
That being said, I am pretty bummed that the quality is not any better then pretty much the cheapest FDM on the market. (Which admittedly prints pretty well for what it is)

I hope Prusa can figure this out.

Re: Tired and indignant

Spartacus' statement may have been a bit harsh but it was right. You said this is your first printer, so the surfaces look good to you, but you don't have much to compare to.
I am in the same boat as Spartacus, coming from an ANET A8 that cost me $144. It is stock, other than printed upgrades(frame supports) and it prints the same quality as my $800 MK3.
Now, that does not tell the whole story. The MK3 is much easier to operate for a multitude of reasons, and is much quieter.
That being said, I am pretty bummed that the quality is not any better then pretty much the cheapest FDM on the market. (Which admittedly prints pretty well for what it is)

I hope Prusa can figure this out.

I can understand your frustration if MK3 does not do a better job than the significantly cheaper ANET A8. I'm certainly inexperienced when it comes to 3d printers, but I still have high demands on the finish.
If I compare my prints with others who have a problem, my finish looks fantastic. Maybe I'm lucky, or I've managed my fine tuning, (see my post on "Fine tune your MK3").

What distinguishes MK3 and ANET is that ANET has a significantly more stable Z-frame. It may be the one that causes ANET to have minor problems with vibration. The MK3 frame needs more stability and I have long been thinking about how to stabilize it. I have some ideas on how to do it, only one finds suitable material to work with.

Re: Tired and indignant

I am in the same boat as Spartacus, coming from an ANET A8 that cost me $144. It is stock, other than printed upgrades(frame supports) and it prints the same quality as my $800 MK3.

A copy of Prusa i3 perform same like original. Surprise, Surprise. What have you made buy MK3?

Re: Tired and indignant

Is there someone who can give me a gcode file so i can see if my print settings are wrong?
I really hope my settings are wrong, but here on the forum are a lot of people who have the same problem.

Re: Tired and indignant

Have you tried to print Marvin, gcode included in the release package?

Re: Tired and indignant

Is there someone who can give me a gcode file so i can see if my print settings are wrong?
I really hope my settings are wrong, but here on the forum are a lot of people who have the same problem.

IMG_20180315_191206.jpg

IMG_20180315_191058.jpg

It is not a problem of profiles is something else that is failing. I am in contact with support and they have sent me the gcode of a dog and it comes out of pain ... I have already asked them that I want my money back. I've been almost a month without getting a good impression and wasting time on tests and more tests.

Re: Tired and indignant

Have you tried to print Marvin, gcode included in the release package?

I have now printed the pug from the sd card i got in the package:

Re: Tired and indignant

Where is the rest? 🙂

Re: Tired and indignant

Where is the rest? 🙂

It needed 1 hour to print this. And after seeing that it had the same proble like my other prints, i stopped the print.

Re: Tired and indignant

Based on some of the comments and attitudes noted in this thread I'm glad I spent the extra money for a pre-built. I've had multiple 3d printers in the past and this MK3 is incredible. I wish people would stop spreading rumors such as the lack of LA support. I use it on every print, can push my print speeds up to and over 200% and the results are very impressive. (NO, I'm not saying the results are the same but on those prints, I can live with a little loss of quality but I get to choose that.)

I've been using both LA V1.0 and V1.5 and they both have some pros and cons. I also am using OctoPrint/Octopi running on a Rasberry 3 via USB and I get ZERO communication issues.

I agree that perhaps Prusa should have done an initial release only to advance users to locate and fine tune some of the bugs that showed up but IMO I'm very confident that all issues will be addressed and resolved.

Bottom line is that my MK3 is made from the same parts as most all other MK3's, disregarding parts revisions, but it was assembled by a team of people that are very good at building 3D printers.

Re: Tired and indignant

I'm curious how you were able to run LA v1.5 on a MK3, as there has never been any compilation of the Prusa MK3 firmware with LA 1.5.

Re: Tired and indignant

Here's a suggestion that worked for me
Go to the #SLabPrint website. They sell printed plane gcode specifically tuned to the MK3.
Download one of their thin wall test files - free from the website. Then follow their suggestions to get
the print to come out perfect. I've found that thin wall printing really points out the faults that may
exist in your machine and that may be masked in regular 3D prints.

Hey guys I used greg.g2's suggestion, Which has helped a lot. Prints aren't perfect but they are much better.
Left cube is at 0.25 and right is at 0.15.

Re: Tired and indignant

My S3D factory file if anyone wants to try it,

Re: Tired and indignant

Can you post a link for #SLabPrint? I googled that but had a google fail.

thanks in advanced

Andy

Re: Tired and indignant

Can you post a link for #SLabPrint? I googled that but had a google fail.

thanks in advanced

Andy