Successful MK3 build - mods and feedback
I’ve got a few prints under my belt now and I have to say that I’m quite pleased with the printer. Given the extended delay between ordering and receiving, I was able to spend a lot of time reading the forum and pre-planning for the build and also worrying that the print quality was going to be a step backwards from the MK2. Fortunately, I did not find that to be the case.
Overall, the printer went together smoothly. I took extra time and care during any step involving alignment or something that needed to be precisely constructed. I preprinted some parts to swap out as a means of improving things right out of the box. Below is a list of the changes made and swapped parts:
Misumi Bearings and Shafts:
(10) LMU8 Linear Bushings
(2) SFJ8-320 Rods
(2) SFJ8-330 Rods
(2) SFJ8-370 Rods
[Degreased with kerosene on arrival and relubricated with Shell Gadus S2 V100 grease]
e3D silicone sock
Idlers replaced with 20T toothed pulleys with dual bearings
Cables wrapped with braided wrap
Used heavier gauge silicone wires on the heat bed
Power supply swapped out with Meanwell NES-350-24 and removed from frame
Brace: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2772947
Power Supply Cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2814343
Z-Axis mounts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2779123
Y-Axis improvements
Motor mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2809788
Adjustable tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2786671
X-Axis strain relief: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2543380
Cooling fan shroud: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808683
Extruder fan deflector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2746072
The filament spool was also relocated off the printer.
I’m running the latest firmware (3.2.1) and had no issues with calibration/initial setup. I’m using Simplify3D as my slicer and just repurposed a profile I used on the MK2. Below is the first print off the machine, a Benchy printed at 150mm/sec using Atomic Filament PLA. Not the greatest pic, but there were no real issues to speak of other than some light stringing. I had no deformation in the bow of the boat which I attribute to the cooling shroud mod.
Re: Successful MK3 build - mods and feedback
Thanks for sharing!
Do you think the braided wrap will help prolong the life span of the cables, or is it just for good looks? I imagine it would be a pain to replace one cable in the bundle if you have to undo the whole lot. Or do I misunderstand how the braided wrap works?
I have taken the opposite approach to yours: I ordered a MK3 kit early, then had no time to actually put it together or read much on the forum. I was too busy printing with my well functioning MK2S. Now the MK2S is starting to play up again, so I finally started to put together the MK3.
When you were reading while waiting for the kit, did you come across any reports about cable breakages on the MK3?
My main worry is that I could possibly improve the cable management while putting the printer together. Intermittent and partial cable breakages have been the most time consuming and perplexing problems with my MK2 printer and I would very much like to avoid a repetition.
So far, I am impressed with the many improvements that were made for the MK3.
The improvements I have planned so far include a hardened nozzle and the silicone sock.
I will probably also attach a PTFE tube conector to the top of the extruder, so that I can feed hygroscopic filaments to the printer without any moisture exposure. But I have to wait and see what the new extruder actually looks like, maybe it's more complicated to do this because of the filament sensor.
Re: Successful MK3 build - mods and feedback
Any chance you have a link to the cable wrapping? Looks cool.
Re: Successful MK3 build - mods and feedback
Hi Mr Mik, there is a plate on top of the extruder that you can remove....
you could model a replacement but..
.
you should be able to get the STL for this from the mmuV2 upgrade printable parts!
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: Successful MK3 build - mods and feedback
Hi Mr Mik, there is a plate on top of the extruder that you can remove....
you could model a replacement but..bowden mk3 filament cap.JPG.
you should be able to get the STL for this from the mmuV2 upgrade printable parts!
regards Joan
Thanks Joan!
I'll have a look at that if needed. Making the adaptation for the MK2 was quite easy:
Re: Successful MK3 build - mods and feedback
Do you think the braided wrap will help prolong the life span of the cables, or is it just for good looks? I imagine it would be a pain to replace one cable in the bundle if you have to undo the whole lot. Or do I misunderstand how the braided wrap works?
When you were reading while waiting for the kit, did you come across any reports about cable breakages on the MK3?
I found the braided wrap very easy to work with. As for structural integrity, I'm not sure if it's significantly better; aesthetically, I find it more appealing. I did find some references to people having their heatbed wires fray or break, hence the switch to the silicone wiring.
My main worry is that I could possibly improve the cable management while putting the printer together. Intermittent and partial cable breakages have been the most time consuming and perplexing problems with my MK2 printer and I would very much like to avoid a repetition.
I tried to focus on strain relief and cable management that would stress the wires as little as possible. As the risk of fire is a very real one, it's not something I want to tempt. Speaking of, I also purchased some thermal fuses but haven't figured out the best way to mount them yet.
Re: Successful MK3 build - mods and feedback
Any chance you have a link to the cable wrapping? Looks cool.
I ended up buying it at a local electronics store. A quick glance at Amazon shows a number of options, though. I got the continuous style, not the split version. I ended up using 1/4" and 1/2" (but could've possibly used 3/8" instead). I also melted the ends to prevent unraveling.