Original Prusa i3 MK3S vs MK3 + important links  

Re: The most important links - Original Prusa i3 MK3

The only possible bribe is a container of Gummy Bears like a 20 foot steel container

Re: The most important links - Original Prusa i3 MK3

PrusaPrint direct download: https://www.prusa3d.com/download-prusaprint Error 404
Whats going wrong? Doesnt it exist anymore?

Re: The most important links - Original Prusa i3 MK3

Suggestion: Add the the top post that there is no current CURA support...

Thanks Abraham, I will ask our devs, whether we are working on something or the support is off for now.

Re: The most important links - Original Prusa i3 MK3

PrusaPrint direct download: https://www.prusa3d.com/download-prusaprint Error 404
Whats going wrong? Doesnt it exist anymore?

Already in contact with our web developer.

Re: The most important links - Original Prusa i3 MK3

Ah ok thank you Jakub

I had the problem that my PI Zero every time kills the system from the SD-Card. Dont know where my problem is. Card shows the Octo content but it doesnt start after a few times.

Re: The most important links - Original Prusa i3 MK3

There is a possible security issue with the current build. Nothing serious, but we want to be sure the system is safe from internet attacks. New build will be out soon.

I had the problem that my PI Zero every time kills the system from the SD-Card....
Have you tried different card? All those memories are made in millions and they can be faulty.

Re: The most important links - Original Prusa i3 MK3

Ah no i just use my SD-Card which was in my Camera. I will try another one if the new build was online.

Re: The most important links - Original Prusa i3 MK3

Ah no i just use my SD-Card which was in my Camera. I will try another one if the new build was online.

I bought some additional SD-cards to have on hand and they wouldn't work. I reformatted the cards and had no problem. Reformatting the card will mark bad blocks and may help you keep that card for a little while longer.

Re: The most important links - Original Prusa i3 MK3

The default "Allocation unit size" for my Windows 10 computer was 32 kilobytes. It worked fine for the MK3 when I formatted the sd drive to 8192 bytes.

Re: The most important links - Original Prusa i3 MK3

Did Josef ever post parts 2 & 3 for his videos? Haven't seen them on Youtube.

I second the question.

Re: The most important links - Original Prusa i3 MK3

Is there a list of recommended calibration prints with the supporting documentation to help troubleshoot issues on those said prints?

Re: The most important links - Original Prusa i3 MK3

You want to leave work early, go to bed late. Show your better half all the nice things you have printed, she will of course not understand what you are talking about.

Suspect Link Removed, by Joan.T

Re: Original Prusa i3 MK3S vs MK3 + important links

Update, added links for the MK3S 😉

Re: Original Prusa i3 MK3S vs MK3 + important links

Hi, yesterday I ordered MK3S upgrade from MK3. I will print the parts by my own. My questions about printing the parts:
1) Do I need to make supports for printing in PETG or is it possible to print all the parts with no supports?
2) Can I print it with WIHITE PETG instead of BLACK one? Will the sensor be OK with this colour? (I am asking because the old sensor from MK3 has problem detecting some colours of filament.

Thank you very much for your answers.

Re: Original Prusa i3 MK3S vs MK3 + important links

Hi, yesterday I ordered MK3S upgrade from MK3. I will print the parts by my own. My questions about printing the parts:
1) Do I need to make supports for printing in PETG or is it possible to print all the parts with no supports?
2) Can I print it with WIHITE PETG instead of BLACK one? Will the sensor be OK with this colour? (I am asking because the old sensor from MK3 has problem detecting some colours of filament.

Thank you very much for your answers.

1 no the full plate prints well without supports with PETG
2 as far as I can see you can print any color you want I used Prusa Clear PETG if needed I can paint the sensor parts black or reprint them with some of the black PETG included in the upgrade kit.

Re: Original Prusa i3 MK3S vs MK3 + important links

Regarding the colour:
FS-lever must be black to correctly trigger the IR-sensor, other parts should be dark, but you can experiment with the colours.

Re: Original Prusa i3 MK3S vs MK3 + important links

I have a question about mk3 / mk3s upgrade.
I just went through a VERY difficult upgrade getting the mk3 to current build and parts.

I am very nErVoUs in taking the mk3 to the s version.
I have fine tuned the mk3 now and taking the mk3s might screw everything up again and might not recover from due all the parts and belts changing.

Now to the question.
If we do not wish to take the mk3 to the s update will Prusa be continuing to support and release updates to that version until a mk4 is released or will stop support for the mk3 original?

Re: Original Prusa i3 MK3S vs MK3 + important links

Regarding the colour:
FS-lever must be black to correctly trigger the IR-sensor, other parts should be dark, but you can experiment with the colours.

Jacob, For those of us who have the MK3 can you please please please make a disassembly/reassembly online manual? I do not know what parts to upgrade (i got my printer in december of 2017) So i have original parts as i was in the first week or 2 of printing. I have the mmu2 but never bothered to attempt given the feedback on the board for this very reason.

Please create a disassembly guide so i can know what parts need to be removed, how they should be and how it should go back together. Please also list what parts in addition to the mk3s should be printed (i have a spool of orange pet from prusa waiting orders)

I love my printer, do not want to break anything disassembling and would appreciate a guide as i had when i first build my printer over a year ago.

Re: Original Prusa i3 MK3S vs MK3 + important links

Am I the only one who is kinda gonna miss the awesome full optical filament sensor?

Personally I think the new filament sensor is a step back from the MK3 full optical one. The new one can only sense running out of filament, but not stalling. While the stalling detection was the only useful feature for me.The old MK3 sensor saved me already a decent amount of times from having to redo the whole print, because my 2,5mm nozzle got clogged up. (Though I should note that it also failed a few times to detect a clogged nozzle). While I have never used the filament running out feature yet, I just make sure I alway's have enough filament for the job ;). So the stall detection is the only feature that proved useful for me.

I also never have had problems with the detecting of filament (yet). Printed lots of different filaments: PLA-White,Black,Gray,MetalGlitterGray,GlowinDark, PETG-Loads of Transparent,SemiTransPurple, UVgreen, NGen-PrusaOrange,MetalGlitterGray, and more.

I can see thought that order for the MMU2 to work it needs to rely heavy on detecting presence of filemant, and even though I did not have problems with my sensor yet, I would still feel saver with a mechanical one. But as long as I don't have a MMU2 yet I will alway's try to keep my stall detection feature as it just proves so damn useful for me.

I really hope prusa will keep supporting the full optical sensor in the future firmware upgrades. If there are future major changes in the extruder / cooling I might again try to convert the new design, this time to keep support the MK3 optical sensor.

ps. I don't get the "and cannot die because of mechanical wear." part posted in the blog about the new MK3S. I clearly see mechanical parts moving and rubbing before it breaks the IR optical gate?

Don't get me wrong, I understand changing the full optical MK3 sensor as it is not perfect. But the new solution just doesn't give the same features (though I like the magnetically spring design ). I really hope Prusa is going to bring the stall detection function back in the future.

Re: Original Prusa i3 MK3S vs MK3 + important links

Regarding the colour:
FS-lever must be black to correctly trigger the IR-sensor, other parts should be dark, but you can experiment with the colours.

With regards to the type of black, all blacks are not equal. I printed my FS-lever in Rigid Ink Black PETG and it did not trigger the sensor. I had to reprint in the supplied Prusament Black PETG to get it to work. I can confirm however that the colour and translucency of the rest of the parts do not matter as I printed them in Rigid Ink translucent blue.

Regards,
Martin