Nozzle Temperature  

Re: Nozzle Temperature

If you are setting the temperature manually using the front panel, it will stay at that temperature until it hits an instruction in the gcode print file telling it to change. It's likely that it starts at 220C, you set it to 230C on the panel, then the gcode file contains another instruction to set it back to 220C after the 1st layer.

Re: Nozzle Temperature

I understand. I caught it on the temp change from first layer to the next. Example 220 to 215. During first layer I had raised the temp from 220 to 230 and the temp raised as expected. At second layer it dropped back down to 215, per g-code, and I tried to raise the temp again at the front panel. That was when it would only get 10 degrees less than what I set it at the panel. Set the panel for 230 it would stay at 220, set at 240 it stayed at 230, and so on.

Thanks,

Neal

Re: Nozzle Temperature

If I may, why don't you change the temperature in your Slicer or at least in directly in the gcode?

Re: Nozzle Temperature

I did not change the temp in slicer because I did not want to take the card out and put it back in my computer then slice again at the time. Pure laziness on my part. In my defense I have radically changed bed temp and hotend temp on my MK2S and MK3 in the past with no problem in the past. This happened just after I updated the firmware on the MK3.

Still the question remains. Why does it stay consistently 10 degrees below what I set it at manually. It followed the g-code setting perfectly but if I manually changed it then it looked like this with a "be patient" time of 5 minutes between changing temp setting manually

220/230
225/235
230/240

So I got to the temp I wanted but I had to do a work around. In the end I did just take it back to the slicer but I have never encountered this on any of my other printers in the past.

Thanks Again,

Neal

Re: Nozzle Temperature

Honestly, I never set manually the temperature during a print, so I never had this issue.
If you reproduce this issue systematically, maybe you should report it to the developppers here: https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues

Thanks for them

Re: Nozzle Temperature

Your lower than expected print temperature for a given setting can be effected by the ambient temperature and the part fan. The default Prusa part fan blows a lot of air on the heater block and nozzle rather than where it is wanted lowering the effective print temperature for a given setting. Fitting a sock to your printer or placing it in an enclosure and/or running a PID calibration will help mitigate this effect. Prusa themselves do not notice this as their print farm is 100 machines in a single room effectively simulating an enclosure.

Regards,
Martin

Re: Nozzle Temperature

Most likely it's PID calibration issue.
Please check: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/general-discussion-announcements-and-releases-f61/-howto-pid-calibration-your-way-t18479.html

Re: Nozzle Temperature

Any changes in the local heat, speed, flow seem to stay at that setting even after loading another Gcode file using 3.1.1 FW in my machine. I need to be cautious of this if the new Gcode part is setup differently in the slicer from part to part. I know a power cycle clears the manual setup changes but unsure of using the front panel reset button.

Re: Nozzle Temperature

Hi there,

I have exact the same behavior as neil.w2 describes.
(Temp keeps 10° below what is manually set)

I'm using Firmware 3.3.1

Seems other guys have the same problem as there is an issue reported on github:

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/770

Hope they have an eye on that soon. Sure we can set the temperature in the slicer software but to find an appropriate value "live" tunining should be working properly. 😉

Re: Nozzle Temperature

Some updates:

Found out, that adjusting the bed is working properly, just as an info.
Also found out, that adjusting the nozzle temperature while printing the first layer (PLA, no Cooling-Fan) works also.
As soon as the Fan kicks in (2nd or higher layer) it seems to me at the moment, that the temperature control system (PID Controller) does not apply enough power to heat up the nozzle.
Thats then when you set it to 240°C and it is just lingering around 230°C. If you boost it to 250°C it will go to 240°C.
So i reduced the Cooling-Fan from full blast (255) to half speed (128) still the temperature is lingering 10°C below setpoint.
Then is switched the Cooling-Fan completely off (0) -> boom, up goes the the temperature to the set value!!

-> I will try to do a PID calibration

-> I am using an 0.4 Olsen Ruby Nozzle and the orange stock Cooling Fan-Shroud (that says: HOT! on it) that came with the i3 MK3. Perhaps the V2 "Dyson-Tilted-Coolingfan" Revision will not blow this much towards the nozzle?
None the less, as the Heater seems to have enough Power to overcome the cooling, the PID-System should reach the desired temperature in acceptable time.

Re: Nozzle Temperature

Some updates:

Found out, that adjusting the bed is working properly, just as an info.
Also found out, that adjusting the nozzle temperature while printing the first layer (PLA, no Cooling-Fan) works also.
As soon as the Fan kicks in (2nd or higher layer) it seems to me at the moment, that the temperature control system (PID Controller) does not apply enough power to heat up the nozzle.
Thats then when you set it to 240°C and it is just lingering around 230°C. If you boost it to 250°C it will go to 240°C.
So i reduced the Cooling-Fan from full blast (255) to half speed (128) still the temperature is lingering 10°C below setpoint.
Then is switched the Cooling-Fan completely off (0) -> boom, up goes the the temperature to the set value!!

Huh. I'm surprised this isn't triggering the thermal runaway detection.

I had thought that thermal runaway is supposed to be triggered any time the heater is getting full power and the temperature isn't going up. That's to prevent an overheat if the heater and temperature probe become uncoupled (for example, if the temperature sensor is removed from the hot block).

Re: Nozzle Temperature

I noticed this yesterday.

I loaded a new spool of filament from a new manufacturer(PETG, Hatchbox, not at all a fan of this filament btw)

And tried to up the temp during the print to correct some issues with the filament and it took over 10 mins to go from 240-250c, was like totally ridicules how slow the temps came up at first i thought it was broken but they keps going up 1c at a time every few mins per 1c temp raise. So slow in fact i ordered a new heating cartridge because obviously the stock one is totally underpowered when trying to raise temps while fan is on and i eventually want to print much hotter materials than petg.

Im very sad i only found a heater 10w more powerful than stock was hoping to find one at least twice as powerful.

Re: Nozzle Temperature

Hi Nathan,

10 watts is 25% more powerful than existing (if you have a 40watt heater, 33.3% if you have a 30watt heater!)

that should make a significant difference...
do you have a Silicone Sock? that would also make a positive difference.

regards Joan