Learn from cold pull
The pull on the black case is from a Mk3S, the pull on the plater is from a Mini.
The pull on the black case, Mk3S looks mighty thin, almost ready to break in the hotend. The Mini pull looks real 'healthy'.
Do either pulls tell me anything, except that my two nozzles seem claen? Both nozzles are stock, .4.
Mk3 - 1X
Mk3S - 2X
2021 Hyundai Palisade
Wife - 1X
RE: Learn from cold pull
You'll get a lot of variation with pulls depending on the filament used, temperatures at which you pulled, force of pulling action, etc. I wouldn't read too much into it. I've gotten some near-perfect internal impressions in one pull, and a broken-off stub on the next. I'd chalk it up to experience with pulls. If I focused on "pull quality" I could probably get more consistent results, but I'm not w0rried about it.
and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan
RE: Learn from cold pull
I get my best cold pulls with my eSUN cleaning filament. Here is my process:
- Load the cleaning filament and purge at various temperatures to melt out what I can.
- Cool the nozzle to 185°C.
- Once nozzle stable at 185°C then quickly (but doesn't need to be frantically)
- Turn off extruder
- Send "G0 E100 F200" through terminal interface (Pronterface, OctoPrint, Serial Terminal program, etc)
- This will allow the extruder to continue to extrude under the normal thermal cutoff to allow it to start to solidify while under normal printing pressures. This cleaning filament can continue to flow below 170°C.
- Allow nozzle to fully cool down until the extruder fan turns off (should be 40°C or so)
- Open the Bondtech door.
- Turn on nozzle to 100°C.
- When the nozzle temperature gets to about 60°C start pulling up on the cleaning filament. It should release somewhere between 70°C and 90°C and not stretch out.
I almost always get perfect impressions this way, and after particularly messy filaments (like carbon filled) I pull out even more bits of old filament. If I see those bits of filament I repeat until I get a clean cold pull. Note, this can take a while because of the whole waiting until the nozzle fully cools, but I do this to ensure that the entire filament through the nozzle is fully solidified to avoid stretching.
See my (limited) designs on:
Printables - https://www.printables.com/@Sembazuru
Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com/Sembazuru/designs
RE: Learn from cold pull
I get my best cold pulls with my eSUN cleaning filament. Here is my process:
- Load the cleaning filament and purge at various temperatures to melt out what I can.
- Cool the nozzle to 185°C.
- Once nozzle stable at 185°C then quickly (but doesn't need to be frantically)
- Turn off extruder
- Send "G0 E100 F200" through terminal interface (Pronterface, OctoPrint, Serial Terminal program, etc)
- This will allow the extruder to continue to extrude under the normal thermal cutoff to allow it to start to solidify while under normal printing pressures. This cleaning filament can continue to flow below 170°C.
- Allow nozzle to fully cool down until the extruder fan turns off (should be 40°C or so)
- Open the Bondtech door.
- Turn on nozzle to 100°C.
- When the nozzle temperature gets to about 60°C start pulling up on the cleaning filament. It should release somewhere between 70°C and 90°C and not stretch out.
I almost always get perfect impressions this way, and after particularly messy filaments (like carbon filled) I pull out even more bits of old filament. If I see those bits of filament I repeat until I get a clean cold pull. Note, this can take a while because of the whole waiting until the nozzle fully cools, but I do this to ensure that the entire filament through the nozzle is fully solidified to avoid stretching.
Thank you so much for helping with this wonderful post.
RE: Learn from cold pull
Really explain everything in detail, the article is very interesting and effective. thank you!