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Jumped on the prusa train  

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Toy Medic
(@toy-medic)
New Member
Jumped on the prusa train

After having my cr-10s for almost 2 years I finally took the plunge.  Just ordered the mk3s kit with free shipping! Super excited to finally get a prusa and to see just how good it is. Any tips on building the kit is appreciated. 

 

Side note: I also ordered the Mars 3d resin printer yestersy so I've got all kinds of upgrades on the way. 

Posted : 05/07/2019 5:18 am
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Illustrious Member
RE: Jumped on the prusa train

Take your time, build slowly and carefully.  More than one printer has been ruined by a rushed build.  Follow the instructions, they have detail that is important.  When installing the belt and extruder drive gears, align then tighten the set screws FLAT FIRST. Use a clip at the hot end Bowden collet. Ensure the "flag" on the IR filament sense arm moves freely, and can interrupt the sensor with filament pushing the ball, and and clear with no filament (you'll see when you get there).  The X and Y axis should move easily and freely stop to stop. Any friction or sticky spots will cause issues. Install the T-nuts by hand BEFORE installing on the X-Axis supports, or they get damaged trying to thread them on to the lead screws.  The belt tension numbers in the LCD are meaningless: ignore that part of the manual. 

Buy some grade 2 lithium grease and pack the bearings before installing them on the rods.  Buy a silicon sock for the heater block: the MK3S print fan is known to cause thermal problems when it kicks on. 

During setup, and after the wizard and calibration is complete: run the nozzle PID calibration and the Temp calibration from the LCD cal menus. These aren't done normally, and are actually very essential to print quality. 

Read Jeff's "Life adjust my way" thread.  Basically it covers how to properly calibrate layer one.  While the printer has a layer one cal procedure built in, there are much easier ways to get a good first layer. Live-Z is the menu option when you get to that point, and you'll need a large flat part so you have time to tweak the setting.

If you have the PEI steel sheet - finger prints are your enemy: handle the sheet ONLY by the edges. One finger print will spread and ruin prints.  Soap and water are the best cleanser.   The Power Coater Ultem sheet is similar, but can only be cleaned using alcohol. So have a few large bottles on hand, and rubber gloves for handling and cleaning (or the alcohol just transfers oils from your fingers to the sheet).

And - Prusa Slicer is a great tool, and the default preset profiles are actually amazingly good at producing high quality parts.  Don't try to out think them until you fully understand what you are doing with the slicer.

Welcome to the community. 

 

Posted : 05/07/2019 6:48 am
Toy Medic liked
Toy Medic
(@toy-medic)
New Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Jumped on the prusa train

Thanks for the awesome and detailed response! I plan to take an entire weekend to build it and ration the gummy bears appropriately. I'll check out the other threads and grab the other recommended items. Much appreciated! 

 

Posted : 05/07/2019 2:47 pm
Chocki
(@chocki)
Prominent Member
RE: Jumped on the prusa train

Get yourself one of these or similar, just do a search for plastic razor blades. It makes removal of parts really easy and saves you ripping your nails off!, and does not scratch your print surface like metal items can, plus your also keeping your finger grease away from the surface and it's cheap!.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sticker-Remover-Plastic-Removing-Scratched/dp/B0722HJ5ZQ/ref=asc_df_B0722HJ5ZQ/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309785472429&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9391303230381911345&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007151&hvtargid=pla-422817862068&psc=1

Normal people believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet.

Posted : 05/07/2019 6:30 pm
bobstro and Toy Medic liked
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