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MiLkiE
(@milkie)
Active Member
Heatblock Heatbreak Leaking

For a few weeks now my printer (MK3S) has been leaking quite a bit. It is now at a point that I cannot print until I fix it. I'm guessing it is between the heatbreak and block? Can someone point in the right direction to solving this? I never built this from the kit so I don't know how it went together, any help would be greatly appreciated, happy to have a go at taking it apart, but have no idea where to even start.

I replaced the nozzle 12 months ago and replaced it with the 3D Solex Speed Doubler 0.6mm nozzle. Heat block doesn't seem to be in the place to get it tight, but the nozzle won't go any further into the block. I am wondering if this may have caused this issue.

This is my first problem in 2 years so I am pretty happy compared with my previous printer where there was an issue every time I started it.

Napsal : 05/01/2022 9:41 am
micha
(@micha)
Trusted Member
RE: Heatblock Heatbreak Leaking

Are you aware of https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle-mk2-5s-mk3s-mk3s_2069 ? 😉 

Napsal : 05/01/2022 9:52 am
MiLkiE
(@milkie)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Heatblock Heatbreak Leaking

I believe that is what I followed when I replaced the nozzle a year ago. I had the gap then, there is no gap now. No idea how I can solve this, I guess because it is leaking I will need some new parts. Has anyone had this problem, how was it solved.

Napsal : 05/01/2022 10:05 am
FoxRun3D
(@foxrun3d)
Famed Member
RE: Heatblock Heatbreak Leaking

Everyone has had this problem, and no, most likely you won't need new parts unless you damage the heater cartridge or thermistor when you disassemble the hot end. Just follow the instructions in https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-mk3s-mk3s_161575/ to take the hotend apart and reassemble it. Make sure when you put the heat break in, it's positioned so that when you insert the nozzle it naturally creates the gap. And don't forget to hot-tighten the nozzle at 285 degrees.

Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...

Napsal : 05/01/2022 12:25 pm
MiLkiE se líbí
Thomas
(@thomas-14)
Trusted Member
RE: Heatblock Heatbreak Leaking

I had the same problem. In my case the heartbreak was not inserted correctly. After taking the hot end apart and following the reassembly instructions carefully as @fuchsr suggests, the problem was solved. No new parts needed (although in my case I broke the wire of the heating element and had to replace it, but that was unrelated to the leaking and my own fault for not being careful enough)

Napsal : 05/01/2022 2:39 pm
Robin
(@robin)
Noble Member
RE: Heatblock Heatbreak Leaking

I ruined my first heat block by over tightening the nozzle when I replaced it with a nozzle x. I wasn't aware of the recommendation to use only 2,5NM force - resulting in the same issue (leaking) you have. After buying a new heat block and assembly with a torque wrench everything was fine again...

If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.
Find out why this is pinned in the general section!

Napsal : 06/01/2022 10:47 am
FoxRun3D
(@foxrun3d)
Famed Member
RE: Heatblock Heatbreak Leaking

Here's a 3d printed torque wrench: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/24539-torque-wrench-handles-from-10nm-up-to-30nm/

Works exceedingly well!

Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...

Napsal : 06/01/2022 11:38 am
Neophyl
(@neophyl)
Illustrious Member
RE: Heatblock Heatbreak Leaking

If the solex nozzle is slightly shorter on the threads than the original e3d one then that would explain why there is no gap when screwed in. 

You would need to first clean everything up , removing the leaked plastic.  Then screw the nozzle into the heatblock, making sure to leave the normal ~0.5mm gap, then screw the heatbreak further into the heatblock to meet the nozzle.  This will have the effect of moving the entire heatblock/nozzle section further up away from the print bed once its screwed into the heatsink.  Once at that stage you can follow the normal hot tighten process to the torque required.

Once you have confirmed plastic is no longer leaking then its a case of going through z calibration again as you will have made gross changes in the height of the nozzle.  Adjusting the pinda may also be required too as that will be in a different relative position to the nozzle now.

With e3d standard nozzles none of that would be needed as they are all machined to the same size.  Its why some of the cheaper off brand can also cause these types of problems too.

 

Napsal : 06/01/2022 11:49 am
MiLkiE se líbí
MiLkiE
(@milkie)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Heatblock Heatbreak Leaking

Thanks for all of your answers and links! I will be attempting to fix it this week. No doubt I'll screw something up and I'llask for some more queestions! 😉 

 

Napsal : 10/01/2022 1:03 pm
Thomas
(@thomas-14)
Trusted Member
RE: Heatblock Heatbreak Leaking

Screwing up is part of the fun 🤩 

Napsal : 10/01/2022 3:13 pm
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