General maintenance questions?  

Re: General maintenance questions?

Hi Jovie,
before printing PLA, I clean the the build plate with IPA 99.9%(Isopropyl alcohol), because that's what i got off ebay... slightly lower quality works for some folk!

for PETG and TPU I use either Talcum powder if I am being ladylike (and if I can find it), rubbed well in, then wiped off with clean tissue... (no loose powder left)...
otherwise I use forehead or finger grease, they are usually handy! rubbed off with a tissue!
I have never used windex, and I find Glue messy .

When cleaning the bed between prints, I remove the metal build plate, so it cools quickly, if the prints are thick enough, I flex the build to crack the models off the build plate. this works for me, with most PLA and PETG prints,
for TPU, sometimes you have to give the prints a helping hand.

for PLA, assuming the previous print came off clean, i put the build plate back and do the next print

For PETG and TPU, assuming the print came off clean, I replace the build plate, re-apply talc, or forehead grease, rub off with tissue, and print straight away.

If the prints are thin and don't easily crack off with flexing, I use a thin plastic spatula, and / or freezer spray (air duster can held upside down, or IPA to loosen the prints...
in these cases, the build plate usually gets finger prints on the surface, for PLA I clean with IPA and replace the build plate...

for PETG same as above to remove, talc, etc. to re prepare the surface...
-----------------------------------------------

Should a microfiber cloth be used on the print bed for cleaning?

Jo Prusa used to recommend paper coffee filter discs and IPA, the minor abrasive paper, improved the adhesion.
if adhesion has diminished I have used scotch brite and IPA or Acetone... ( 100% acetone, not nail varnish remover... nail varnish remove contains oils to protect your skin... note for ladies, both will destroy traditional nail varnish)(my gel nails are remarkably resillient)

More recently I have become aware that dishwash detergent and hot water, scrubbed in with a sponge is remarkably good for cleaning PEI sheets and restoring adhesion...
(note to all) Acetone on HOT pei, makes the PEI brittle, over time...
----------------------------------------------------
Does the MK3 still require a semi-regular application of acetone to the print bed, similar to the MK2s?, see above, try detergent and water first!
After not using the printer for a few weeks, I'm noticing some bed-sticking issues even after cleaning with alcohol. Is there some other maintenance or calibration task I should run after a long rest? see above, try detergent and water first!
Are there any specific maintenance or calibration tasks to perform when switching between different materials? (In this case swapping between PLA and PETG) see above, try detergent and water first!
----------------------------------------------------

How often should calibration tasks be re-run (and which tasks should be run)? after build, after upgrading firmware, after moving the printer and if the printer starts having poor live Z results... I factory reset, then run them all, otherwise
9 point mesh level before every print and
Live Z when changing filaments... I use a dry wipe pen to record the most recent pegt liveZ and PLA LiveZ to make switching quicker
---------------------------------------------------

Is there any problem with moving the Z-axis upwards (through the menu options) between prints? Does that mess with the PINDA probe for the next print? If not, is there an easier way to automatically make the Z-axis raise up in between prints to make filament-switching easier?
Not really, it will slightly increase the cable fatigue, but it makes the printer easier to work on, reduces potential pinda thermal issues... (Prusa are working on thermal stabilisation of the Pinda, however I also have a mk2 with no stabilisation, so I just raise the Z axis)
----------------------------------------------
When starting a print, I often have filament leakage between preheating and the initial calibration which results in bits of filament sticking to the bed
some folk delay the hot end heating to reduce this (there are various revised G code examples on the forum that you can search...) I keep a plastic scraper handy, and simply scrape the zits off as the printer progresses... you get used to completing this before the prime line is finished
------------------------------------------------------------------
Filament often sticks to the nozzle during a new color load, causing spirals and loops instead of a smooth line down. Is this a sign that my nozzle is dirty or I'm missing a hotend maintenance step? perhaps... I keep a brass brush handy and periodically brush the nozzle and extruder clean, other folk keep i piece of thick leather handy, they use the rough side to clean the nozzle, and use the smooth side, dressed with jewelers rouge or some other microfine abrasive, to polish the nozel before starting a print

I hope these pointers, help you, regards Joan