Experience with Priline Polycarbonate?
Just got a roll of Priline PC (not their Carbon Fiber PC) and had an "interesting" experience. With my previous PC (HobbyKing) I would always have adhesion issues (smooth PEI bed). It generally required a sizable brim (15mm for some parts), super clean bed, and well adjusted live-Z and even then would fail on occasion by detaching during the print. It also wanted to print with a really how bed (123) and hot nozzle (285). You can imagine my surprise then when I printed my first part with the Priline filament with these same settings and wound up destroying one side of my bed. Absolutely bonded to the PEI and wound up tearing much of it off with the print. Some careful further experiments seems to show it is ok to print it with a 100 degree bed and 265 nozzle using either some Windex or some gluestick as a release layer before starting. Just wondered if any of you folks have any more experience with this stuff that would be worth sharing? The resultant print was beautiful (PC extruder parts) and the PC seems as tough as I would expect (based on what it took to break off the failed part). I'm in the process of cleaning the PEI glue off my bed now to replace the sheet (wish that were an easier task - boy does that glue like to stay on even with alcohol or GooGone) so I'd really prefer not to repeat the bed destruction any time soon.
RE: Experience with Priline Polycarbonate?
I had a similar adhesion issue on the powder coated sheet with my first print with priline PC. Had to really force the piece off and took a small part of the sheet with it. Now I am using the other side of the sheet. For the next print, I raised the live Z setting up a little and it was not as bad.
RE: Experience with Priline Polycarbonate?
For polycarb, I always use a layer of PVA glue to get enough adhesion and to protect my phenolic print plate. Bed temp of 100C 1st layer / 110C thereafter work well with Priline PC, Priline PC carbon fiber, and Polymax PC.
Compared to Polymax, Priline is a lower melt filament and can print as low as 265C, but won't get full layer fusion at that temp. It prints very stringy and saggy when wet. Most of my Priline spools need drying 20 hours at 158F when they first arrive to gain best printability. Once Priline is dry, you can print at 275C to 280C for better fusion and still not create a plate of cobwebs. At 290C, you start to see some geometry sag issues even when dry.
Priline CF isn't as rigid as Polymax PC, nor does it have quite the thermal resistance. I use Priline as a cheaper alternative PC when heat resistance and absolute strength are less vital. The Priline PC carbon fiber prints with essentially the same settings as their non-carbon fiber filament.
That said, even Polymax requires drying before use out of a factory sealed bag. A high temperature nozzle + hygroscopic filament ===> more steam pop defects during printing. They need to be dried.
RE: Experience with Priline Polycarbonate?
Could someone post there settings for a prusa mk3? (priline PC-CF) im getting mixed results and cant seem to find anything soild working. im wasting at this point. i keep seeing extrusion rates at different %'s im using 95%. Any settings would be extremely helpful.