Constant Jamming
I'm having this problem printing certain things that look like the attached. Basically anytime something has an arch that requires 100% infill eventually clogs the extruder. I've tried setting retraction to 0 and different filament. The current one I'm trying to print is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12006 . Scaled to 80% and then 70% in the z axis and flipped upside down with supports. Everytime it eventually fails because the extruder jams. I only seem to have this issue with prints that have angles.
Any advice?
Re: Constant Jamming
You are printing it with PLA I take it?
Try cold pull, then season the nozzle innards with cooking oil while its hot to create a slippery passage for it. Messy but often solves the PLA jamming on stainless heatbreak. Hope this helps.
Re: Constant Jamming
Hi Easycheese,
Rather than using 100% infill, you could consider increasing the number of bottom layers to a larger number and the number of perimeters to a larger number. to reduce the need for high infill
also, you could consider using variable layer height, to reduce the layer stepping effect on the crown of the helmet, to make later finishing easier.
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: Constant Jamming
I seem to have the same problem, also when using PLA. The extruded starts skipping. But when I unload the filament, remove part of the first 10cm and retry it gets to the exact same spot and will start skipping again.
I tried printing the same object with PETG also an infill of 100% and then no issue at all.
This problem I have since moving to 3.2.1 coming from 3.1
Re: Constant Jamming
I seem to have the same problem, also when using PLA. The extruded starts skipping. But when I unload the filament, remove part of the first 10cm and retry it gets to the exact same spot and will start skipping again.
I tried printing the same object with PETG also an infill of 100% and then no issue at all.
This problem I have since moving to 3.2.1 coming from 3.1
Does that mean on 3.1.0 you don't have any issues with printing PLA at all? What about going back to 3.1.0 and see if still can print it again? I'm curious on this one though
Re: Constant Jamming
Update:
The problem is getting worse and starting to happen more often (failing on the 'Buddy' sample print). I've tried the following
1. Cold pull
2. Different filament (Prusa)
3. Nozzle replacement
4. Verified fans work and are pointed the correct direction (labels in). Verified that the plug is correct orientation (only one option). Verified that the left fan pushes air into the chamber
5. Fiddled with the tension screws, tried tighter, tried looser
6. Replaced PTFE tube, verified nothing stuck in the heat break
Now I'm at a loss. The only way to prevent the issue that I've found is to print 20 degrees hotter than I should (Makers Geek normally prints at 230-235, I could get it to succeed if I set the hotend to 255)
Re: Constant Jamming
It is possible that your termistor is damaged or has a bad connection. Try reseating it on the board and verify that it shows close to ambient temp when the hotend is off. Check for brakes in the termistor and heater wires. Also go through the PID calibration again.
If you try and take a cat apart to see how it works, the first thing you have on your hands is a nonworking cat.
Re: Constant Jamming
Are you using SLIC3R ?
Maybe you can try to decrease the max volumetric speed for PLA (Filament settings / Advanced), wich is 15 mm^3/s by default instead of the 11.6 wich is the max recommended by E3D
Re: Constant Jamming
It is possible that your termistor is damaged or has a bad connection. Try reseating it on the board and verify that it shows close to ambient temp when the hotend is off. Check for brakes in the termistor and heater wires. Also go through the PID calibration again.
The temperature isn't really an issue although I did the PID calibration just in case. It definitely shows ambient temp when hotend is off. Attached are the latest attempts. I did them after the PID calibration
Re: Constant Jamming
Are you using SLIC3R ?
Maybe you can try to decrease the max volumetric speed for PLA (Filament settings / Advanced), wich is 15 mm^3/s by default instead of the 11.6 wich is the max recommended by E3D
I'm using the sample print gcode provided by Prusa in the latest tests
Re: Constant Jamming
People who had this problem went replaced their stock heatbreaks, with a third party one like this https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/plated-wear-resistant-thermal-tube-for-e3d-v6-hotend-1-75mm?variant=34320401859
Most of the time these constant jams happen if there are issues with retractions, like molten filament going between the top of the heatbreak and where the 45 degree cut of the PTFE tube is supposed to be:
https://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/How+to+trim+PTFE+tube+-+Multi+Material/497
A disassembly of the hotend would be my recommendation, and check if
a) the PETFE 45 degree cut is there that's going into the heatbreak
b) if the filament is rubbing somewhere from the bondtech downwards (do a cold pull first, then remove the nozzle, and push a piece of filament down the PTFE tube with the heatbreak and heaterblock attached)
Too tight bondtech spring tensioning can cause this, too. (will eat into the filament then)
Re: Constant Jamming
People who had this problem went replaced their stock heatbreaks, with a third party one like this https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/plated-wear-resistant-thermal-tube-for-e3d-v6-hotend-1-75mm?variant=34320401859
Most of the time these constant jams happen if there are issues with retractions, like molten filament going between the top of the heatbreak and where the 45 degree cut of the PTFE tube is supposed to be:
https://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/How+to+trim+PTFE+tube+-+Multi+Material/497
A disassembly of the hotend would be my recommendation, and check if
a) the PETFE 45 degree cut is there that's going into the heatbreak
b) if the filament is rubbing somewhere from the bondtech downwards (do a cold pull first, then remove the nozzle, and push a piece of filament down the PTFE tube with the heatbreak and heaterblock attached)
Too tight bondtech spring tensioning can cause this, too. (will eat into the filament then)
Thanks but I already tried replacing the PTFE and did cold pulls. I completely disassembled the extruder and there are no obvious flaws on the interior either.
Re: Constant Jamming
Thanks but I already tried replacing the PTFE and did cold pulls. I completely disassembled the extruder and there are no obvious flaws on the interior either.
Don't know if you managed to solve your issue but yesterday I started to have similar issues like you described. I was unable to finish printing "All In One 3D Printer test" due to underextrusion.
I was doing a cold pull to diagnose the problem and noticed that my idler screws tension was quite loose and remembered that springs I got with my kit looked shorter and thinner than the ones in the manual but when assembling I still followed the manual and tightened the screws just almost to the surface of the print. Turns out the clicking I was hearing was not the extruder motor loosing steps but the bondtech gears skipping over each other in situations of higher resistance due to the low tension causing the extruder to loose grip on the filament.
I tightened the idler tensioning screws to 1-1.5 mm under the extruder body surface and was able to finish the same gcode for "All In One 3D Printer test" with no issues. Also the quality of fast solid infill improved dramatically (previously it was always rough and inconsistent, now is almost as smooth as the slow solid infill)
I still have to test if that solved the issue for good but the difference was noticeable immediately.
If you try and take a cat apart to see how it works, the first thing you have on your hands is a nonworking cat.
Re: Constant Jamming
No solution yet, I've tried the following:
Different STL
Different Filament (including prusa filament)
Cold pull
Validated fan positions and behavior
Complete disassemble and check for bad parts
Replaced nozzle
Replaced PTFE tube
Various tensions on the screws
I ordered an E3d heat break, we'll see if that fixes the problem.
Re: Constant Jamming
Quick question - did you unscrew heatbrake from the heatsink. If yes, was there any heatsink compound on the threads, and/or have you tried to add any?
I'm asking because in the early days of E3D V6 there were issues with PLA that where solved by either screwing the heatbrake into the heatsing very tightly (my other printer has E3D V6 assembled with what seemed to be excessive force but since I did it that way it never got a jam - before it jammed regularly) or adding a compound onto heatbrake threads (just the heatsink part) and E3D V6 even ship now with a heatsink compound.
If you try and take a cat apart to see how it works, the first thing you have on your hands is a nonworking cat.
Re: Constant Jamming
Quick question - did you unscrew heatbrake from the heatsink. If yes, was there any heatsink compound on the threads, and/or have you tried to add any?
I'm asking because in the early days of E3D V6 there were issues with PLA that where solved by either screwing the heatbrake into the heatsing very tightly (my other printer has E3D V6 assembled with what seemed to be excessive force but since I did it that way it never got a jam - before it jammed regularly) or adding a compound onto heatbrake threads (just the heatsink part) and E3D V6 even ship now with a heatsink compound.
Nope (because the printer didn't come with any). I've got some on order with my new heat break, maybe I'll try that first before replacing the heat break.