[Solved] Cleaning the steel sheets (smooth and coated)  

RE: Cleaning the steel sheets (smooth and coated)

@towlerg

Not really - as they and others who understand fingerprint content, alcohol dissolves the oil, but does not dissolve other stuff the finger or palm left behind: nor does the alcohol remove the materials dissolved from the surface. Alcohol is a solvent, not a surfactant. And, that final statement in the article is about making the finger print invisible to the eye: not actually cleaning the surface.

A streak test will show the materials that remain after an alcohol bath. Dampen a piece of a paper towel with alcohol, with a fingertip, run it across the print sheet that you think is clean. If you see any streaks or rainbow effects in the wet area as the alcohol evaporates, the bed has stuff on it.  Take that sheet to the sink, do a thorough soap and hot water wash - rinse until the water is sheeting off - dab the few remaining drops of water with a fresh paper towel. Repeat the streak test. 

RE: Cleaning the steel sheets (smooth and coated)

Posted by: @tim-m30

@towlerg

Not really - as they and others who understand fingerprint content, alcohol dissolves the oil, but does not dissolve other stuff the finger or palm left behind: nor does the alcohol remove the materials dissolved from the surface. Alcohol is a solvent, not a surfactant. And, that final statement in the article is about making the finger print invisible to the eye: not actually cleaning the surface.

A streak test will show the materials that remain after an alcohol bath. Dampen a piece of a paper towel with alcohol, with a fingertip, run it across the print sheet that you think is clean. If you see any streaks or rainbow effects in the wet area as the alcohol evaporates, the bed has stuff on it.  Take that sheet to the sink, do a thorough soap and hot water wash - rinse until the water is sheeting off - dab the few remaining drops of water with a fresh paper towel. Repeat the streak test. 

 

Sort of.  I am a chemist and physician.  IPA is an ok solvent for Human produces waxes and oils.  It will not remove them all.  Soap and water is superior.  

RE: Cleaning the steel sheets (smooth and coated)

Isopropyl, ethanol, methanol, great liquids. Don't get me wrong. But faced with weeks of struggle to get MY print sheet clean using "prescribed" methods that continually fail, I looked for options. I was given the standard "sand the sheet surface" "use masking tape" "don't print PLA" "use glue" and none of those methods worked. Small contact areas still fell off the sheet. Then, and I can't remember who - sorry dude, said "try soap and water" ... at that point I had nothing to lose and a printer to gain.

15 minutes later it was absolutely clear soap and water worked where everything else had failed. Well, I did not try the sand paper approach.

RE: Cleaning the steel sheets (smooth and coated)

@tim-m30

I have used sand paper, but it is not a common method for me.  

RE: Cleaning the steel sheets (smooth and coated)

@charles-h13

lol - yeah - back then the guy was suggesting 80 grit. I doubt that's what you use today.  I can see using 1000 or even finer to clean up the scratches, but not something to grind away and leave a texture.

RE: Cleaning the steel sheets (smooth and coated)

@tim-m30

No.  I used 2000-3000 grit.  

RE: Cleaning the steel sheets (smooth and coated)

Posted by: @tim-m30

[...] 15 minutes later it was absolutely clear soap and water worked where everything else had failed. Well, I did not try the sand paper approach.

I had pretty much the same experience. In my case, it was Joan's simple note that using Dawn and water washes away contaminants that made things click. Started adhering to the regimen and have not had issues since.

I do use a 3M 7445 pad (1200-1500 grit used for polishing glass & chrome) now and then. I find acetone handy when there are bits of filament that I just can't get off any other way. It also removes oxidation. 

Funny thing is, I'm using my Prusa procedures on my Artillery Sidewinder printer's glass bed and am getting fantastic adhesion with it as well. Reading through the Artillery support forums, the general consensus seems to be that you need to slather the bed with goop to get good adhesion. I am so glad my Prusa was my first 3D printer as all the "good habits" are making life easier on a cheaper printer.

RE: Cleaning the steel sheets (smooth and coated)

I use 99.9% IPA and once in a while it wash the plate with dishsoap when I start having adhesion problems or when I want to use the other side of the sheet, because that is always full of greasy fingers.

Thx for this info. Now I know I ruined my pei sheet

So now  I understand I ruined my first pei sheet by using acetone as seen in a Prusa tip video. I have problems with Petg and cannot get it off without using razorblades and other things. I understand that if I buy a new pei sheet and use no acetone it will be OK? (rookie)

Posted by: @sprocket314

What is the correct way of cleaning the smooth steel sheet and how often should it be cleaned?

Same question for the coated steel sheet, which I believe it is a different way of cleaning it.

I am a total beginner, so further details would be much appreciated.

Many thanks in advance!

Carlos

Acetone

Posted by: @gtmans

So now  I understand I ruined my first pei sheet by using acetone as seen in a Prusa tip video. I have problems with Petg and cannot get it off without using razorblades and other things. I understand that if I buy a new pei sheet and use no acetone it will be OK? (rookie)

Posted by: @sprocket314

What is the correct way of cleaning the smooth steel sheet and how often should it be cleaned?

Same question for the coated steel sheet, which I believe it is a different way of cleaning it.

I am a total beginner, so further details would be much appreciated.

Many thanks in advance!

Carlos

 

A single application fo acetone should have not ruined it unless you soaked it for hours.  

every now and then

I used acetone after about every 10 prints or so. Just a wipe with a towel with some acetone ....

Acetson

Posted by: @gtmans

I used acetone after about every 10 prints or so. Just a wipe with a towel with some acetone ....

I have used acetone.  I only use it to reset a sheet that might be worthy of retiring because it sticks too little or too much.  

Print PETG

Posted by: @gtmans

So now  I understand I ruined my first pei sheet by using acetone as seen in a Prusa tip video. I have problems with Petg and cannot get it off without using razorblades and other things. I understand that if I buy a new pei sheet and use no acetone it will be OK? 

 

With the PEI sheet you only need to use IPA to clean it. And you can use dish soap and hot water to give it a deep clean.  Acetone is only used as a last resort. I’ve used it 2 times so far and my sheet is 1 year old. 

PETG sticks extremely well to the smooth PEI sheet and damages the sheet. Use windex to clean your sheet before you print PETG or use glue stick on the sheet before printing PETG. That will act as a release agent. 

But 1 thing I can suggest is that use the smooth sheet only for PLA and use the satin or textured sheet for PETG. Those sheets don’t require glue stick or windex before printing. 

If anything, I've found that PETg (and ABS) sticks too well unless a release agent is used.

I'm in the habit of using Layerneer as both an adhesion booster and release agent.  It goes on much thinner than glue stick and therefore does not leave images on the bottom side of the print.

I have never heard of a PEI sheet being ruined with the occasional use of acetone to clean it.  I have, however, ruined one side of one by getting impatient and using a kitchen implement, as is common when printing on glass plates.  I have heard of people occasionally using acetone on the textured sheet as well, despite the Party Line being not to, without any apparent damage.

If the print is stuck, let it cool to room temperature and it will usually pop right off with flexing.  If it still sticks, put it in a refrigerator for 10-15 minutes or so.  Razor knives (and spatulas and air hammers and high explosives) will work with the thick glass plates but may damage the PEI sheets.

RE: abs, asa, and PLA

Posted by: @jsw

If anything, I've found that PETg (and ABS) sticks too well unless a release agent is used.

I'm in the habit of using Layerneer as both an adhesion booster and release agent.  It goes on much thinner than glue stick and therefore does not leave images on the bottom side of the print.

I have never heard of a PEI sheet being ruined with the occasional use of acetone to clean it.  I have, however, ruined one side of one by getting impatient and using a kitchen implement, as is common when printing on glass plates.  I have heard of people occasionally using acetone on the textured sheet as well, despite the Party Line being not to, without any apparent damage.

If the print is stuck, let it cool to room temperature and it will usually pop right off with flexing.  If it still sticks, put it in a refrigerator for 10-15 minutes or so.  Razor knives (and spatulas and air hammers and high explosives) will work with the thick glass plates but may damage the PEI sheets.

That is especially true of you squish it too much.  PLA likes a large amount of squishing and the others do not.  

thanks for the tips

Its my first 3D printer and I built it just a month ago. Printed about 250 meters PLA and 200 meters PETG. Will buy a new pei sheet for PLA and another satin or textured sheet for PETG. No acetone on the pei. thx.

thanks for the tips

Its my first 3D printer and I built it just a month ago. Printed about 250 meters PLA and 200 meters PETG. Will buy a new pei sheet for PLA and another satin or textured sheet for PETG. No acetone on the pei. thx.

RE:

FYI - I just cleaned my smooth Steel sheet w/ IPA (91%) and you can see where it does affect the coating on the sheet.  I"m not sure how this affects the performance of the sheet but I'm NOT going to use IPA going forward but rather just dish soap.  I resorted to IPA because I had some ABS supports sticking that I was trying to get off. 

IMG 5641 is a non cleaned IPA cleaned side of the sheet, IMG 5642 is after cleaning the sheet with IPA

RE: Cleaning the steel sheets (smooth and coated)

I have no problem with adhesion on my coated PEI sheet. But I printed light coloured filament (white, yellow, light green etc.).

When I now print with e.g. black ASA, I always get white clouds on the black surface. I tried to clean the sheet with soap, IPA and acetone. But no improvement.
Any ideas, how to solve this?