bed adhesion
my prints wont stick without glue any ideas i have the powder-coded bed.
Thanks
Cameorn Reuter
RE: bed adhesion
You might want to look over some of the suggestions in this thread: https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/powder-coated-pei-steel-sheet-less-sticky-than-pei-sticker-build-plate/
I was also having issues when first starting out with the PC bed, but the suggestions got me going.
RE: bed adhesion
The biggest challenge between the PC and Smooth for me is the smooth is more accepting of some variance in Live Z. You really have to have your live Z nailed down with the PC sheet.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: bed adhesion
And the simple fact a dish soap and hot water wash removes contaminants left from manufacturing ... despite Prusa saying don't use water on them, you really need to in order for them to even begin to work for PLA. That said, some have given up printing PLA on the PC sheets and ordered the smooth sheets for their PLA printing.
RE: bed adhesion
I print PLA on a PC sheet regularly and without any trouble. The best part is that the parts are released once the sheet cools down.
If you are using PLA and it does not stick I would check whether the sheet's surface is clean and/or the nozzle distance to the bed is close enough.
RE: bed adhesion
@misan
is 875 good?
Cameorn Reuter
RE: bed adhesion
@cameron-reuter
Do you mean nylon filament? Or do you mean 0.875 mm Z-offset?
RE: bed adhesion
Really odd with the powder coated beds. They usually have decent adhesion. The PEI smooth sheets are even better for PETG and ABS.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: bed adhesion
There seems to be quite a difference between early and later PC beds.
My original PC bed looks like a dusting of sand coated with PEI so it has quite a lot of texture and has good grip, my latest sheet is a lot smoother and looks like molten PEI with holes in it.
Guess which one grips better?, they are both PRUSA PC sheets. They were both put under a USB microscope with the same setting for magnification.
And non of them are as coarse a texture as the ones PRUSA printed the printer parts on, actually, nowhere near.
Normal people believe that if it ainât broke, donât fix it. Engineers believe that if it ainât broke, it doesnât have enough features yet.
RE: bed adhesion
@misan
0.875 mm Z-offset
Cameorn Reuter
RE: bed adhesion
@cameron-reuter
Mine is -0.965 mm but that does not mean yours is wrong, different people can have a different offset as PINDA probe is not at the same height in all the builds.
In this guide, you have tips and pictures of properly calibrated bed that might help you: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/ZhBlGFD9Ah-live-adjust-z
RE: bed adhesion
Live varies by machine. I have three printers and they are each completely different. I even used the same Pinda adjustment tool.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: bed adhesion
@charles-h13
Nope, the old one!.
I think that with all the ridges and valleys on the old sheet, if you were to flatten everything out, there would be more surface area and maybe this is why it grips better.
Normal people believe that if it ainât broke, donât fix it. Engineers believe that if it ainât broke, it doesnât have enough features yet.
RE: bed adhesion
@charles-h13
Nope, the old one!.
I think that with all the ridges and valleys on the old sheet, if you were to flatten everything out, there would be more surface area and maybe this is why it grips better.
Ok. I would prefer less adhesion.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog