[Solved] XYZ Calibration constantly failing  

RE: XYZ Calibration constantly failing

Adjust the pinda sensor how it should be.

then search the forum how to reset the settings.

turn of the printer, start the printer, and push the reset, I am not sure how, so search,

then de settings will reset to like a new printer,

then do xyz again.

RE: XYZ Calibration constantly failing

A part coming loose from the bed is adhesion, and nothing to do with PINDA height.

Put the PINDA back to where it was originally so you can pass cals again.  Do the manual FACTORY RESET with DATA CLEAR to remove any odd settings that may be affecting cals. Run the full Wizard to calibrate everything ...

Then, once working, be sure to thoroughly wash the PEI sheet.  Use the Soap and Water step - it works best.

Alcohol rinse: every few prints

• Gloves recommended.
• Once in a while, an alcohol rinse is helpful to remove PLA residue. It does not remove finger oils well.
• Pour a 5 cm puddle of 91%+ alcohol in the middle of the bed, with clean hands use a fresh paper towel to scrub the bed. Wipe up all the alcohol.

Acetone wash: infrequent

• Pour a 2 cm puddle of acetone on the bed, scrub it around with a fresh paper towel. It will evaporate fast as you clean. This step removes PEI oxides that form over time and with heat, and improves PLA adhesion to a like new state.

Hot Water wash: often, as needed, and after any of the above

• Handle the bed only by the edges.
• Wash the bed in hot water, use a fresh paper towel as a wash cloth, with a few drops of plain dish soap (Dawn, unscented, no anti-bacterial, etc.).
• Rinse well in hot water - if you have very soft water, rinse a bit longer.
• Dry the bed with a fresh paper towel.
• Handle the bed only by the edges.
• Place bed on printer.

Streak test: when contamination is suspected

• With a fresh piece of paper towel, and very clean fingers, dampen the towel with 91%+ alcohol, and wipe the bed side to side moving back to front, like you're painting it with alcohol. The alcohol should be thin enough on the towel it quickly evaporates. If you see any streaks, the bed is dirty and needs a wash.

RE: XYZ Calibration constantly failing

The Your print problem is,

A printer will never work out of the box,

you will always have to adjust the settings, for every print.

A new bed, will not hold on to a model as good, later it will get better.

A small model with small contact to the bed needs, glue stick, and/or a big brim. 4 or 6 lines(attache to the model), then it will not getting push loose from the bed.

A big flat square, will curl up, so a big brim attache to model will help, and/or  glue stick will help.

Thin objects, and long in height, will need glue stick and a big brim.

Also the 200 mm infill speed of the standard settings is to high, set this to 150, and make a new filament setting in the slicer.

Most important:

Search forum how to clean the bed, this is very important !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And the first layer is very important, also for sticking to the bed, !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Practice this until is is very good, start to high then work yourself down, you need to press down a little in the bed, if you touch it with your finger(rub it) it should not get loose, the look at the underside, the lines should be against each other without gabs, other wide you need to go more down.

Also set the auto level before printing on 7 points auto level.

RE: XYZ Calibration constantly failing

For future reference. Somewhere along the line the screws on the x gear slipped from the flat side. The printer eventually ended up not calibrating around the circles on the heatbed. It was hard to tell with the paper and it looked about right. It was to the right of the calibration circles though. 

I did re-position the Pinda and my live Z is .0640 as opposed to 1.3. Although it doesn't truly matter unless you're over 2.0 according to the handbook.

I did contact support and they did walk me through some checks that I ended up adjusting too. I successfully printed the Prusa logo and now am onto Marvin. Hopefully he sticks this time around. 

RE: XYZ Calibration constantly failing

Ignore Peter - gluestick is for reducing adhesion with PETG and for helping adhesion with ABS.  It is NOT useful with PLA.  And not sure what he is recommending for big long and large.  It makes no sense.  And I never have to adjust Z unless I have changed the nozzle. 

Small footprints, like a ballerina model, will require design changes, like a brim, to hold the part during printing. But Marvin should be okay without brims - as long as the bed is properly cleaned.  Fingerprints are your enemy. One fingerprint will ruin a part build: see photo for an example of prints keeping the PLA from sticking properly. Second image is after an alcohol wash - still not sticking.

RE: XYZ Calibration constantly failing

As for the gears: this is the proper method for installing the gears:

Flat First: Drive gears must be tightened flat-first.

1)   Start with both set screws fully loosened so the pulley is free to spin on the motor shaft.

2)   Align one set screw dead center with the flat on the motor shaft, slowly tighten the screw until it fully contacts the flat surface.

3)   Torque the flat set screw to spec.

4)   Now tighten the jam set screw, and torque it to spec.

Once tightened, never touch the flat set screw unless the jam screw is first fully loosened.

Why Flat First? Set screws have flat ends. If you tighten the jam screw first the set screw on the shaft flat doesn't fully contact the shaft, only one small edge of the screw surface is biting. Reversing torques can easily shift the shaft to a position the flat screw no longer contacts the shaft. This lets the jam screw wriggle loose. And after a while, vibration loosens the screws until the gear is free to rotate.