Visible Layer Lines/Arch Support
Hello everyone, new guy here so be kind hah!
Reaching out today as I am trying to get my new I3 Mk3s+ Working but am having issues with the prints themselves.. So, some things I was able to get figured out myself, and other things I feel like I am getting the hang of, but I was hoping for some advice and tips to help me get this thing perfected like I've seen online 🙂
So, first issue I had was stringing which thankfully I was able to fix by adjusting the temperature (195) and the retraction (attached image). Issue with that is it now caused the layer lines to be rather visible and easily felt when holding the model (all models to this point are Benchy's as they are a good base to see what's wrong I've been told). I saw online the best way to deal with that is to slow the speed down (attached image), which did improve it a bit but the layer lines are still visible and kind of give off that rougher look then what I was hoping for (at .05 ULTRAFINE Detail).
Next and hopefully last issue is bridging, as I've noticed on the Benchy's as compared to ones online is that the tops of the windows and the portholes on the front dip down, which I know can normally be solved with supports.. But everything I have seen online point that the Benchy shouldn't need support to print properly as it is a stress test.. What function should I change to get the dip in these sections to go away? This part (along with the detail) is rather important as I plan on using this printer for architectural work and product design (Buildings and other work related things) where detail is key.
I will post a picture of the latest Benchy when it finishes printing. Thanks for the help!
Benchy Update
Use the benchy on the SD card, and do not slice your own
Testing your thousands of possible slicer combos is fruitless. For benchy, print the GCODE on the SD card. You look to have a combination of first layer issues and bearing tightness issues (too much squeeze on the X carriage bearing holders?). This can cause all sorts of later layer issues - such as you see in your windows. When properly assembled and adjusted (all physical, no slicer settings needed) your benchy will print perfectly with reasonably good filament in dry enough condition.
Update
I have, and it turns out well like you said. I was then able to get the printer to work after running files through cura instead of prusaslicer for some reason. issue is now when I try to print it seems to not be connecting the infill at all, making it weak. It works for the test cubes however, they seem to come out great...
Also, i did not assemble mine, I purchased the prebuilt and pretested version.. I just can't seem to replicate the settings used that they used in the testing.