Using thread lock on frame
I have a kit on the way, have been reading through the online manual, watching the YouTube builds. No where have I seen anyone mention or use a thread locker such as LockTite on the frame build. Given the nature of 3D printers, this seems like a good idea to ensure the frame stays aligned/stiff. Is there any reason not do use a thread locker?
Thanks.
Re: Using thread lock on frame
Based on my MK2/MK2s experience, there is no need for locktite. It's screwed against plastic which dampening the vibrations pretty good.
The only place I'm using it is the extruder gear. The one tiny screw always tend to release. Did the same thing on my MK3.
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Re: Using thread lock on frame
After several 1000s hours of printing, there is no screw loosen. So, it's not mandatory to use screw-locker.
Thomas
Re: Using thread lock on frame
Loctite 290 on the filament drive pulley grub screw only. Not needed elsewhere.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Using thread lock on frame
After several 1000s hours of printing, there is no screw loosen. So, it's not mandatory to use screw-locker.
Thomas
That is good to know. Thank you for the response
Re: Using thread lock on frame
Y axis grub screw became loose after one month - I probably didn't tighten it enough when I built the Mk3. I had a test cube print at a really funny slant angle on the y-axis which was the indicator that the grub screw had become loose. I am using loctite blue threadlock to make certain this doesn't happen again.
Re: Using thread lock on frame
Hex heads are the best type to use if you want them to round out and become extremely difficult to ever remove, and Loctite will make it even more difficult. I've Loctite my hotbed screws and now will be ordering a 5/64 easyout which hopefully will allow them to be pulled. Fair warning.
RE: Using thread lock on frame
@pathogen
I'd never use a grub screw (set screw) without some kind of locking. They will almost always come loose under reversing loads like a gear.
In my 40+ years as a mechanical engineer, I've uses a bunch of Loctite. This type of problem is almost always caused by using something like 290 (red Loctite) on tiny screws. For some reason, this is the version usually found in auto parts stores, etc., so its used a lot by people who don't do these things for a living.
Loctite 290 is designed to be a permanent locker, and for larger screws. I wouldn't use it on anything smaller than #10 (5mm) if I had any suspicion that I might want to remove the screw. I've broken #8 (4mm) screws that were installed with 290. The problem is not the hex key socket, it's the glue.
Another possible problem is the key set being used. Most Americans think that there is only one size set (inch sizes), since metric is only recently being removed from the "Agent of the Devil" category. Inch sized keys and screws don't mix well.
I don't think you would have had this problem with 242 (blue) or the even lower strength 222 (purple), which are specifically designed for removal.
Roger Gault
Metric loving American