Ugly Surface problem  

Re: Ugly Surface problem

This is an image showing the sliced problem area of the part

Re: Ugly Surface problem

Have you tried lower the speed? (35mm/s is recommended for better detail) and PETG don't like high speeds
Also it seens like a cooling problem maybe due print speed or cooling fan. If you can't solve it on Cura, try Slic3r PE

Re: Ugly Surface problem

Have you tried lower the speed? (35mm/s is recommended for better detail) and PETG don't like high speeds
Also it seens like a cooling problem maybe due print speed or cooling fan. If you can't solve it on Cura, try Slic3r PE

I tried Cura with reduced speed and it didn't make a substantial improvement. So I tried Slic3r and it was much better, although not great and worse in some places. I don't really understand why the difference in appearance, since the part is simply a ring of 4 perimeters: same speed, temp, material, etc.. Photo below shows comparison.

Re: Ugly Surface problem

Do you have other material that you can print and test? for example PLA?

Re: Ugly Surface problem

Any improvement on this? I, too, am struggling with PETG. I printed a flat 2"X2" square, trying to get the first layer smooth and connected like PLA. I then printed a temp tower and found 230 is the sweet spot. From there, I continue to get globs, zits, puckers, and just an ugly print.

Re: Ugly Surface problem

I haven't printed too much PETG, but I recently played around with an spool of eSUN that I had lying around (after drying it). I did these on my TAZ 6 with a 1.75mm Titan Aero toolhead (my MK3 was busy at the time), but this should still apply. I'm still working on dialing it in (my results were decent, but I'm trying to improve them a bit more), but here's some quick initial thoughts. I hope this helps in some way!

I've gotten artifacts like tiny globs and such if the temperature was too low. Bump it up 5°C at a time and see how it goes. A Benchy is a good test, as the texture of the bow and the overhangs in the cabin will tell you right away if you're going too far. I started with 230°C for the eSUN filament and it was giving me a ton of artifacts. 240°C worked well. It seems like laying down the first layer a bit cooler (I believe one of the Slic3r copolyester presets does this) can improve the first-layer quality.

I've also found that the temperature can vary a bit as the nozzle gets far away from the bed. It seems like turning the fan on later (say, 1-2mm from the bed) can help in some cases. I got pretty good results with my fan set to 25%, but given that the toolhead I'm using has a different part cooler than the MK3's your mileage will likely vary. I don't think I'd push the fan past 40%, though. I think gradually ramping the fan speed up to the ideal speed would probably work well here, though I haven't tried it myself yet (both printers have been busy throughout most of the weekend, unfortunately!).

I remember having to bump up my extrusion multiplier a bit for PETG to work well with my old Wanhao Di3. That might help some of the missed extrusion on the walls. Try a 5% increase to start with, then adjust down from there if dimensional accuracy falls off.

As mentioned previously, keep the speed down a bit. I used 60mm/s and the infill looked quite nice.

Not really related to the issues here, but you also might have to increase retraction distance and/or speed a bit to discourage stringing and blobbing. You won't be able to eliminate it entirely but you can at least reduce it.

Re: Ugly Surface problem

Check model in netfabb for errors?

Re: Ugly Surface problem

I have just started using rPETg which is a recycled version. Currently I'm am working with Slic3r PE and using the Prusa PET setting but modifying as i go. currently the hot end for first rows is at 250°C with 245°C for further layers. its much improved from the first prints but as its recycled material the temps need to be higher. I have not tried to reduce the speed yet but i think thats the next step. also printing at 0.2 layer height.