RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
So my Dad had an cutting tool or how the called in english and was able to make the screw hole and now the screw fit in.
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Didn't read through all the pages but I had two challenges when building. These are from memory so the names might not be accurate.
- My MK3S had trouble with the filament sensor and had to disassemble and reassemble the print head several times to dagnose. Turns out the problem was the elbow arm that is rotated by the filament is very sensitive and I had to mess with the cover piece that the filament goes through. I think this was a known problem in the MK3s and hopefully it isn't an issue anymore.
- Seems silly but getting that collar with the cable bundle into the computer box was a royal PITA.
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
@prusaprinters-profile:
Sounds like you are making good progress on your build!
I hope you are feeling less frustrated. Hang in there! You will be printing soon.
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Yes I also have to build my MMU2S.
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Yes I also have to build my MMU2S.
Putting together the MK3s is a walk in the park compared to putting together and tweaking the MMU2s.
I speak from experience. Mine is quite well-behaved, but it was far more challenging to assemble than the printer.
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Do not touch MMU2 at least 6 months. Learn how to print, how to troubleshoot before.
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Agree!
I would suggest getting very very comfortable and confident with the MK3s before attempting to add on the MMU2s.
Six months of regular printing is probably a good suggestion.
Then, when you do assemble the MMU2s, I would suggest a few things:
1. RTFM over and over and over, including the comments, before you start.
2. Use a file, knife, drill bits, etc., and clean up all plastic parts before you start. Smooth jagged edges, chase holes, etc.
3. Consider adding/changing a few things, which will make your life with the MMU2s easier, such as:
a. A remixed 'manifold' with bowden tube fittings instead of the one that simply clamps the tubes. (below)
b. A switch to kill the MMU power. Enclosure is in the prints section, and there are tapped holes in the frame to fit it. Use a DPST switch and break both + and - power.
4. Pay VERY close attention when assembling and adjusting the new 'chimney' filament sensor. It's tricky. It can't take a joke. Some add a LED to indicate its state, easier than watching 1/0 on the front panel. I don't do this, but many swear by it.
5. The filament buffer is a royal pain in the @$$ to use as intended! Some use self-retracting spool holders instead. When I use the MMU, I take the printer into the spare bedroom on the floor, put the spool holders maybe 7-8 feet behind the printer, and use the empty floor space as a filament buffer.
When you assemble the MMU, print the test prints first, such as the multi-color disk and the sheep. Don't try anything long or fancy until you are confident printing simple things consistently. Don't try things like mixing filament types (hint: PLA and PETg do not mix well in the same print) or trying things like soluble supports until you know the thing is operating properly.
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Oh! I tough the are "ready to use" to. Now I will start with the next Step on the Printer Manual.
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Hi All
I purchased my First Printer in October 21 as a kit, my experiance was good.
I do agree it is not for everyone.
was it worth saving the $200 odd dollars for me, - BIG NO. But I bought the kit to understand my printer and to fix as needed better. It has saved me time and money because I understand the problems I have had and easier to fix.
took about 5 -6 hours to build, first calobration well thats a story, tried using cheap unsealed filament from a hand unit... threw away and used good Prusa filament worked ok then (have learnt drying helps, and not having Air Con blowing on Printer to confuse it).
Have printer running almost 24/7 since and have had issues, sure, but most are PEBPAC (possible error between Printer and Chair). some are just learning to use and fine tune what I am doing, (The more I learn, the more I dont know).
some nuts (Including me) and screws would not quite fit quite right, cleaned as per instruction and all ok, have printed a 2 full sets of parts. rebuilt printer just for fun, can now do in about 2 hours, wiring is the hard part, getting lazy by then and have to do cable managment again.
Fun, love it, I now have 2 clients that pay me to fix their printers
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Fully agree with your story. Honestly, I needed to save those 200$ five years ago. Printers were not so well known that time and my wife needed to be cafefully conviced, that we really need it. Pushing the price a bit lower to the costs of other house device was one of necessary argument 🙂
From that time I recommend to everybody, who is a bit capable to buy a kit. In fact, if you are not handy, you will not save it by buying fully assembled printer. Not later then one month after you start to print, you will face troubles, that you will have to solve. And doing it without a knowledge from the build is very difficult. On my opinion, fully built MK3S is just for people with knowledge and experience, that just want to save time. Usually owners of other printers, who would like to focus on print for business, not to waste time by building and tuning.
MMU2S is a different story. It is critical, that everyting fits, that all steps are precisly done, that you are very capable to make finetuning, you understand the print well and troubleshooting is not an issue for you. I am sorry for targeting so hard the author of this thread, but I took a look to his posts an year ago, when he started with the printer build. Together with his posts now, I would simply not recommend him to start with MMU2 unless he masters the MK3. And masters I mean printing with different filaments, different settings, nozzles. Unless he had to dissasamble the extruder because of clog for several times, replace some parts. Therefore I proposed to take a 6 month break with MMU.
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
there should be a warning on all prusa printers, as far as im concerned i wish i had never bought my factory built one! next printer i buy will be a professional one!
Today i tought I could build the Printer since I dont do anything after a 6 Month break since I was to angry before.
So now I am on that Step: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/3-x-axis-assembly_167854#168224
The ssshhttt... Rods dont get inside. I try for hours everything. I even clean them up before.
Sorry Prsua Team a) the quality is bad of the Printed Part or b) something elese suck.I have just a small toolset to build everything nothing elese. No Mill, no drillpress nothing.
If I would know before that the build is that mental challenging I payed the few Bucks for you guys to deal with all the Problem with!!!!
Only what I can see now the Quality of the 3D Printed Parts is for that very low.
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Can someone explane to me what is should do at the last steps?
Just stick a Cabletie unter der Sensor and level them out?
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
was it worth saving the $200 odd dollars for me, - BIG NO. But I bought the kit to understand my printer and to fix as needed better. It has saved me time and money because I understand the problems I have had and easier to fix.
Sounds like it was worth it then if it's saving you time and money 🙂
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Agree
Initially NO
However the time it has saved me after any problems after, was WELL WORTH IT.
The 2 guys that call me to fix theirs I am attempting to teach them to do themselves.
I actually enjoy the problem solving
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
There is nothing wrong with the Prusa models IMHO, but like all other mechanical devices they do tend to break or misbehave sometimes. People (and the 3D printing industry as a whole) do tend to forget to mention 3D printers are not plug and play devices like TV's. There is a fair amount of t(h)inkering needed to keep things running smooth and even then things can get frustrating (having a hard time getting Prusament PLA vanilla white to stick to the build plate even though other Prusament PLA adheres well)
Having problems with bed adhesion every morning...
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Well everyone maybe someone can still explain what to do with the printer after physically finnish mounting the Parts.
I dont get what the Headbed is needed to do?!
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Can someone explane to me what is should do at the last steps?
Just stick a Cabletie unter der Sensor and level them out?
Yes, so this:
https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/9-preflight-check_176167
I know it seems odd but you use a zip tie to determine the offset height of the pinda sensor. The nozzle should just be touching the bed and the zip tie is used to adjust the clearance to the bottom of the pinda.
I found after loosening the pinch bolt I had to use a small screwdriver to gently pry the pinda mounting hole open so I could move the pinda. But maybe that was just me.
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
Well everyone maybe someone can still explain what to do with the printer after physically finnish mounting the Parts.
I dont get what the Headbed is needed to do?!
Not 100% sure what the question is. You will have to run the XYZ calibration with a sheet of paper under the nozzle. The prompts will tell you when to put the steel sheet onto finish the calibration. Read the “3D Printing Handbook” that came with your kit for complete instructions.
RE: There should be a HUGE Warning before buy the KIT Version
I would suggest that you do not fully tighten that 'pinch bolt' fully until you have the pinda in the approximate correct position.
I mean, tighten it enough so the pinda is not loose in its mounting hole, but don't clamp down on it yet, not to the point that it will actually 'tap' a thread on the inside of the pinda mounting hole.
The reason I'm suggesting this is that after you clamp down on that pinch bolt, it will be easy to move the pinda either one thread up or one thread down, but difficult and imprecise to move it a fractional thread distance up or down, if you need to.