some advice on my new kit build...  

RE: some advice on my new kit build...

1) You need a picture from the bottom of your carriage. It would help if we could see how you have the belt clamped.

You mounted the motor pulley the correct way - but I will note it is reversible. That would give you a lot more room on the left.

2) Adjust Z from the first layer - not from the top. Use Live Z or something similar.

RE: some advice on my new kit build...

Thanks for the reply Robert.

I did adjust the Z on the first layer, These are just the completed prints. I've attached images of the bottoms of the same two prints to compare. Note, a corner did lift on the -0.935. I will run a few more at different levels and cancel the print when the first level has completed.

Also attached are a bunch of photos from the bottom. I hope it isn't overkill, I just wanted to be thorough. The belt appears to be straight and I'm not confident with the tension - I think it's good but am looking at ways to see if it's too tight. I'll try flipping the belt pulley but it looks like the screw will be right at the shaft. Likely not a problem but I'm curious what you think.

Lastly are two images of the wires going into the Einsy. There is no issue, I was just a little surprised by the amount of left over slack. Plugging everything straight in left such a bulky mess diamonds could form when the door was closed. I had to make a lot of loops, spread them around, and orient them so they all sprung outwards from different angles so air could flow over the board. Is this amount of wire common? Does my sorting look adequate? Are there particular areas on the board that need lots of clearance?

Thanks for your help dude.

jay

Zed height / logo bottom:

Y Axis undercarriage / components:

Einsy wires:

RE: some advice on my new kit build...

Nice pictures - I must say your wire routing is better than mine.

I spent some time studying mine. Belt in my idler pulley looks centered. Belt is touching the left side of motor pulley. Not as much as yours.

I have about 1/8" between motor and pulley. I might try closing that gap a bit.

I saw nothing obvious in your pictures. Belt position is governed by carriage position; I saw nothing wrong in yours.

Maybe someone else has some insights.

RE: some advice on my new kit build...

-0.985 is the better of the two Live-Z;  you may notice the -0.935 isn't truly rectangular, the perimeters weren't sticking well and are a bit curvy.  Bed cleanliness is also crucial to getting PLA to stick properly.  Avoid leaving finger prints at all costs.

And this nut is not fully engaged.  I'd think the screw needs to be a bit longer:

RE: some advice on my new kit build...

One other note. Make sure the motor pulley is not actually touching the motor. This is more important than belt position.

RE: some advice on my new kit build...

Hello I'm new here just finished my build and some test prints and they look great , but i unloaded the filament and the auto load filament didn't want to work the settings say it's enabled  any thoughts would be great 

                                                                                                                               Thanks  

RE: some advice on my new kit build...

Getting the MK3S filament sensor to work properly is a mechanical jigsaw puzzle.  You must ensure the flag moves just the right amount to 1) clear the IR sensor field when filament is removed; and 2) interrupt the IR sensor field when filament is in.   You can check operation using the LCD menus for sensors. The filament sensor display should toggle 1 / 0 as filament is pushed through the extruder.  If you don't see it toggling, then the flag arm needs adjustment.

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/43mduc4zdn-ir-sensor-troubleshooting

RE: some advice on my new kit build...

Thank you all for the replies. I took a bit of time working through things before I relied again with my progress.

Sadly, I think my kit has a couple issues that passed through the QC. I could easily be wrong and is why I'm putting this up to see if it's me or the machine. There are a few more photos and I'll post those at the bottom.

Y Axis belt / pulley / idler

I spent a few hours reworking the Y Axis belt, et al,  and could only partly get it to roll straight. After flipping the pulley the belt will roll in both directions without contacting the sides and not changing position. The idler is a different story and after reseating everything multiple times, including the belt, the best I can do is the belt will move from side to side in the pulley depending on the direction the bed is moving.

I also tried to fully engage the screw holding the belt in place on the holder and it squishes the belt. I checked for obstructions and it's the thickness of the printed piece disallowing more turns. I believe the printed pieces are a little askew.

Belt status: X - 252; Y - 272

Print head assembly separating

A new problem arose after a few days of playing. When I first assembled the print head I had to disassemble/reassemble a few times because I could not close many of the gaps. Some perhaps a bit more than a mm. I had to use a blade and file (this stuff doesn't file very easily!) to smooth off defects on the surfaces before I could get a nice solid block.  The hot end assembly / extruder cover were the most challenging and there is a photo below of the completed assembly.

Printing was ultra quiet in the beginning. However, two days ago I tried a 50um treefrog print and I could hear a squishy / rattly noise coming from the head as the print proceeded. I let it finish and turned it off for the day. The frog was very stringy so yesterday I tried again and the sound had evolved to a quite loud clicking though the print quality was still good. After numerous rounds of reloading filament (the autoload has stopped working), adjusting the bondtech gears, and adjustments to the idler door I managed to fix the clicks and the autoload even started to work again.

It was late so I didn't print anything large. Today I did a reprint of the treefrog and the clicks returned! quieter and intermittent but still there. It appears to happen when the filament is being retracted but not always. As the machine ran, and warmed up I presume, the clicks got less frequent and I don't think I heard any during the last half of the print. While examining the print head I noticed that the gap between the hotend assembly and extruder cover has expanded! I think the first days of heating / cooling has malformed the hotend assembly a bit. I have attached photos of both the tension screw side and inside the bondtech door. I also have video of the sound but haven't posted it. I can if desired though.

Also noticeable in the bondtech image is what appears to be a malformed x-carriage and it doesn't meet up well with the back around the top bearings. It was like this out of the box. Is this normal? The bearings are seated well, they move smoothly, and the x-axis is solid.

I really appreciate the time people have taken with me and I'll return in kind down the road.

jay

Y-Axis after adjustments

Hotend assembly / extruder cover initial assembly

Print separation gaps after 23hours of print time