Recalibration from scratch after replacing PTFE tube and Nozzle
I recently replaced the nozzle and PTFE tube on my MK3S+ and have been having troubles printing ever since reassembly. I have run the wizard and calibrated the first layer but I'm still getting prints globbing and sticking to the nozzle. Imgur of last prints perimeter and brim.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Best Answer by Bob:
The z-offset value is mostly immaterial, a good z-offset for you is likely to be very different from what someone else is getting, so don't get hung up on what the number is, -1.200 may be great for you but too high for me or too low for someone else. It's a reference point nothing more. As long as your Pinda probe is about 1mm higher than your nozzle then everything is good and whatever your number is when you get a good squish is what is is.
Typically, though not always, if your nozzle is hitting your print and knocking it off the bed then what is most likely happening is the print is lifting off the bed and it's the print that is getting into the nozzles path rather than the nozzle is in the prints path.
In your first layer print, the rectangle has different shades, it's darker on the sides than in the middle, this is due to the print not sticking well. Your bed probably isn't clean enough. The z-offset is probably ok, maybe a touch low, but mostly ok so you need to get your bed cleaner.
Cheers
-Bob
RE: Recalibration from scratch after replacing PTFE tube and Nozzle
Do a first layer calibration and send us the photo of that.
Cheers
-Bob
Prusa I3 Mk2 kit upgraded to Mk2.5s, Ender3 with many mods, Prusa Mini kit with Bondtech heat break, Prusa I3 Mk3s+ kit
RE: Recalibration from scratch after replacing PTFE tube and Nozzle
Thank you for your response, here is a first layer calibration test photo thanks!
RE: Recalibration from scratch after replacing PTFE tube and Nozzle
Sorry it didn't attach the image. here is a link to Imgur.
RE: Recalibration from scratch after replacing PTFE tube and Nozzle
Also just to note its currently at -1.200 z distance and it sounds like it's rubbing on prints sometimes, prints are failing by being knocked off their rafts so I just assumed the nozzle was too close?
RE: Recalibration from scratch after replacing PTFE tube and Nozzle
The z-offset value is mostly immaterial, a good z-offset for you is likely to be very different from what someone else is getting, so don't get hung up on what the number is, -1.200 may be great for you but too high for me or too low for someone else. It's a reference point nothing more. As long as your Pinda probe is about 1mm higher than your nozzle then everything is good and whatever your number is when you get a good squish is what is is.
Typically, though not always, if your nozzle is hitting your print and knocking it off the bed then what is most likely happening is the print is lifting off the bed and it's the print that is getting into the nozzles path rather than the nozzle is in the prints path.
In your first layer print, the rectangle has different shades, it's darker on the sides than in the middle, this is due to the print not sticking well. Your bed probably isn't clean enough. The z-offset is probably ok, maybe a touch low, but mostly ok so you need to get your bed cleaner.
Cheers
-Bob
Prusa I3 Mk2 kit upgraded to Mk2.5s, Ender3 with many mods, Prusa Mini kit with Bondtech heat break, Prusa I3 Mk3s+ kit
RE: Recalibration from scratch after replacing PTFE tube and Nozzle
Thanks for your help Bob I'll give her an iso bath.
RE: Recalibration from scratch after replacing PTFE tube and Nozzle
Thanks for your help Bob I'll give her an iso bath.
At least 2 posts claiming iso won't be enough in three, two, one...
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