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lennou
(@lennou)
Active Member
print is not sticking to bed

I've done successful prints but most of the time the nozzle pushes the print around, I have used some adhesive spray but I feel like for the first bit it works but it wears off after the fourth or fifth layer.  Can you refer any videos that can help me or any advise? 

Thanks in advance

Best Answer by jsw:

I would do a rigorous Z calibration before {muck}ing around with anything else.

I would first use the Z calibration from the front panel to get things in the ballpark, nice square deposit on the lines, oval 'squish' on the square, and then use any of various test prints (I prefer the 3x3 squares) to dial things in closely and check for any needed left/right and front/rear correction.

Posted : 22/11/2021 12:44 am
BogdanH
(@bogdanh)
Honorable Member
RE: print is not sticking to bed

You didn't tell most important: what filament, what print sheet, at what slicer settings (default?). And finally, you need to show photo of your first layer.
But then, what you say, is nothing new. Advice for "not sticking" are already given hundreds of times in this forum.

[Mini+] [MK3S+BEAR]

Posted : 22/11/2021 9:05 am
lennou
(@lennou)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: print is not sticking to bed

pla, default settings, and i will send the pic of the first layer by tomorrow

Posted : 23/11/2021 4:10 am
Dan Rogers
(@dan-rogers)
Noble Member
Read the book that came with your printer

"most of the time the nozzle just shoves the prints around" - read about initial calibration (3 distinct steps, ending with live Z).

Posted : 23/11/2021 3:37 pm
Xanthe
(@xanthe)
Trusted Member
RE: print is not sticking to bed

I have used some adhesive spray

Well, there's your problem.

Instead of faffing around, just properly clean the PEI sheet (as you've now contaminated it it may now need a LOT of cleaning!).  You'll probably need to use a warm detergent solution (look for a product containing at least 5% non-ionic detergent, e.g. Dawn/Fairy - N.B use a synthetic detergent NOT soap!) AND then >90% isopropanol to ensure you get all the muck off it.

Posted : 26/11/2021 12:24 pm
Dan Rogers
(@dan-rogers)
Noble Member
Adhesive spray, hot plates, vice grips, hack saws, and grinding the PEI off the bed - So many weird things new people do to avoid reading.

The pages in the 3D printing basics book and at the back of the assembly manual must be glued shut.  I've seen some strange behaviors in this forum from "I just assembled" people.  This is not "some assembly required" - this is "mechanical aptitude required".

Posted : 26/11/2021 2:16 pm
lennou
(@lennou)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: print is not sticking to bed

Posted : 28/11/2021 10:48 pm
jsw
 jsw
(@jsw)
Famed Member
RE: print is not sticking to bed

I would do a rigorous Z calibration before {muck}ing around with anything else.

I would first use the Z calibration from the front panel to get things in the ballpark, nice square deposit on the lines, oval 'squish' on the square, and then use any of various test prints (I prefer the 3x3 squares) to dial things in closely and check for any needed left/right and front/rear correction.

Posted : 28/11/2021 11:18 pm
lennou
(@lennou)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: print is not sticking to bed

thank you, im completely new to this your advice was helpful

Posted : 29/11/2021 3:34 am
Robin
(@robin)
Reputable Member

I'd recommend not using anything else than the build in z-calibration. See: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364

Printing bigger patterns like the 3x3 one jsw posted does not really give you much of an advantage, they just take longer to print, that's all. If you set your z-height correctly with the z-calibration the first layer should be good everywhere on the print bed, that's what the mesh bed leveling is for. If you have areas on the bed where the first layer is less optimal you won't fix that with z-calibration because by changing z-height it will make the first layer worse where it was good before and vice versa. You might get better results by switching to 7x7 bed leveling.

Z-calibration sets the offset between PINDA trigger point and nozzle (one fixed value for the complete bed), mesh leveling measures the height differences across the bed and calculates corrections for that. To mix both by printing bigger calibration patterns makes things more complicated instead of straight forward...

If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.

Posted : 29/11/2021 11:00 am
BogdanH liked
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