Nozzle blockage
Hi, I am new here and this is the first time I have problems with my mk3 after 6 months of printing.
I started my printing experience with pla and later on changed to PET-G. After two coils of petg I baught news collours
and tryed to continue. But something is wrong, maybe just bad filament? After some hours of printig the material stopps too come
out of the nozzle and the gearwheel grinds threw the filament without moving it. So the nozzle is stuck.
What are your experienses? Is it possible that something is wrong with the filament? The first one or two hours of printig looks good, then he just continues without filament.
Sorry for my poor english.
Best regards.
Peter
RE: Nozzle blockage
Following.....
I'm having a similar issue with my Prusa i3 MK3S Peter. I've been printing non-stop for about a month with minimal issues. I tried to change the nozzle a couple days ago so I could print some miniatures for my son. That is when the issue you describe started to happen so I put the 0.40mm back on. It printed for about 3 hours just fine then the jam again. I'm printing another one so I'm hopeful it will sort itself out.
Here's what I've tweaked:
- Put in a different spool of filament
- Slightly loosened the feeder tension (the screw on the side)
- Changed the Max Volumetric Speed in PrusaSlicer 2.0.0 from 15 down to 10
I hope you sort it out and I'll watch this post in case a suggestion comes up. Good Luck!
RE: Nozzle blockage
If you've gone from low-temp (like PLA printing at 200C) to high(er)-temp (like PETG printing at 230C), you need to make sure all the high-temp stuff is out of your hotend and nozzle before you go back. I would recommend collecting 2 items for your toolbox:
- Some cleaning filament. I prefer eSun, but others work. You can use nylon or ABS, but cleaning filament melts over a wide range of temps, so getting a bit stuck in the hotend or nozzle won't cause more blockages when you print lower-temp filaments.
- A 6in/15cm x 1.5mm brass rod. Polish the ends to avoid snagging anything. Pick these up at a hobby shop.
Use the cleaning filament to perform cold pulls to clear any leftover high-temp material out. If you still have a clog, you can use the rod to force any stuck filament out by raising Z, heating up to 285C, opening the extruder door and pushing it through the filament feed path into the PTFE tube below the extruder gears to force any suck filament down into the hotend where it will hopefully melt out. You may have to remove the nozzle. You can also poke from below.
I've got notes on cold pulls and clearing blockages that might be helpful if you want more info.
and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan
RE: Nozzle blockage
Another issue is the possibility when you replaced the nozzle you assembled the hot end incorrectly. You must follow the E3D instructions to the letter, otherwise the hot end will not work properly. The nozzle must not be fully inserted into the heater block, and nozzle must be loosened and tightened while the heated to 280c-285c.
https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/Changing+Nozzles/45
and here's another reference
https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-assemble-an-e3d-v6-all-metal-hotend
Mastering the cold pull will also help your printing. They are quick and easy to do once you get the process down, and are the most effective way to clean a nozzle of blockages.
For future reference, posting an image of a part suffering the condition you are concerned with also helps diagnose what might be happening.
RE: Nozzle blockage
THank you, for your answers.
Yesterday I printed a Test cube (50 min) with an old (good) PET-G, and it worked perfectly,
but now I lost trust for overnight prints!!!!
I'll see if it is getting better, with new filament.