Massive problems since i switched to 0.25mm nozzle on my MK3
Hi everyone,
iam really hapyp with my MK3 kit so far and it was running very reliable and awesome with 0.4mm nozzle:
I bought an 0.25mm nozzle directly from E3D and at the same time flashed RC2 of newest firmware. Then problem with retraction started and i flashed 3.1.3 back again.
Factory reset and new calibration i have massiv problems with my Mk3:
yesterday ive had this huge of pla on my heatblock:
After cleaning and reassembling with a bigger gap between nozzle and heatblock ive did some test prints today, still problems on the dinosaur print, they appear after some time printing (oozing?).
(see in my first reply)
Then tried with -10C and this happened:
Pay attention to the PLA coming out of the nozzle threading.
Ive tried different slicer: Slic3r PE, Prusa Control, with 0.25mm profiles and 0.1mm layer height
Different temperates: -10, +10,+20 °C
Different PLA filaments: Das Filament, Prusa Grey, Filamentum
Different settings for Extruder tension
I have no idea if the nozzle is somehow the problem or my parameters. Maybe i should install the 0.4mm original one first and try if it works again.
Anyone any ideas?
Re: Massive problems since i switched to 0.25mm nozzle on my MK3
Could not attach any more files, so here the print failures.
Re: Massive problems since i switched to 0.25mm nozzle on my MK3
Could not attach any more files, so here the print failures.
Re: Massive problems since i switched to 0.25mm nozzle on my MK3
Could not attach any more files, so here the print failures.
Re: Massive problems since i switched to 0.25mm nozzle on my MK3
The nozzle has to be tightened up tight against the heatbreak. Read the e3d assembly instructions...
https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en
Re: Massive problems since i switched to 0.25mm nozzle on my MK3
I agree with you that you should go back to the "last proven configuration"
Having the plastic/resin/pla coming out at the "top" of the heat-block, means that the nozzle was not screwed all the way into the heatblock. They should "touch" on the inside, this is what creates the seal.
https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en
Check this out on how to assemble your v6.
Also, one thing to look for, as I can't tell from your images.
Make sure the heat block, is perfectly parallel with the heat sink. If they are not, your heat break is likely bent. 🙁 There is a chance you bent it trying to break the original nozzle loose.
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Re: Massive problems since i switched to 0.25mm nozzle on my MK3
Tadaaaa:
You guys are awesome, thanks for the help. It seems this was exactly the problem. Last times screwed in the nozzle, so it touches the heatbreak, but way not strong enough and the second time cold only.
The important text parts in the manual:
Screw in the nozzle all the way into the heater block. Don't worry about tightness yet.
Then, unscrew the nozzle by a 1/4 of a turn. This will leave a little space to tighten after screwing in the heat break.
Tighten the nozzle against the heat break. No need to over tighten, we'll be hot-tightening later.
And in Step 28 Hot-Tightening
i put "way" more torque than the last times.
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