life adjust Z - my way  

Re: life adjust Z - my way

ok maybee i'll look into it later

Re: life adjust Z - my way

Hey Jeff, Suggestions? When I print your calibration file it comes out perfectly. When I do the 9 squares it comes out messy. Assuming I need to manually edit bed?

Re: life adjust Z - my way

sorry, but i'm not very familiar with the 9-square alignment pattern, so i can't give you any valid advice here.
i've seen it a few times but i always noticed that it wasn't printed "in one piece", which means that the slicer seems to affect the quality of the print somehow.

but i guess that messing around with the bed level correction parameters might improve the over all quality.

Re: life adjust Z - my way

Loved it. My Z is set at -250 relative to 0 and my first layer is .20mm and very very smooth!

lowering is more made the surface more rough and also made the edges overlap too much. Now it's purrrrfect!

Re: life adjust Z - my way

sorry, but i'm not very familiar with the 9-square alignment pattern, so i can't give you any valid advice here.
i've seen it a few times but i always noticed that it wasn't printed "in one piece", which means that the slicer seems to affect the quality of the print somehow.

The 9 connected squares pattern isn't all that great, cause it usually gets the "lawnmower" effect. I think 9 individual squares would be better.. like so:

http://drucktipps3d.de/extern_pics/9point.stl

which ends up with a continuously printed square instead:

In my opinion a nice calibration flow would be to use your test square as first step to get perfect Z-offset for the middle of the bed, then a 9 square print to help with bed level correct if necessary. Works for me, everybody elses mileage may vary.

(Edit: How the heck can i attach a stl file to a post?)

Re: life adjust Z - my way

...(Edit: How the heck can i attach a stl file to a post?)
simply zip it

Re: life adjust Z - my way

I did many calibration prints and always had same issue. The bottom is higher then the top even with +0,50 um. Any ideas?

Re: life adjust Z - my way

Very good demo!

I printed the sheet and when it start, I have .26 and at end it is at .19. How can I adjust the table to be level?

I'm a newbie. I built myself this kit MK2s.

Re: life adjust Z - my way

.... How can I adjust the table to be level?...
there are 4 correction values that you can edit (front, left, right, rear) +/- 50µm.
that's to correct imperfections in the manufacturing of the heated bed.

if you need to "adjust" more than that, because of a severely curved or skewed printbed: use some washers between the standoffs and the screws.

💡 but (as i always try to mention) make sure that the printbed is not squeezed into the y-carriage frame. there are (and should be) no threads inside the y-carriage and the holes should fit perfectly to the standoffs of the heated bed.
when fixing the printbed to the y-carriage, there should be no force in y or x direction applied to the bolts, because this would cause the heated bed to get curved or skewed. only apply force in z-direction with the screws when assembling the printer...

my kit came along with some coating inside the holes of the y-carriage and i first thought that there are some threads inside. but this is not the case and it might be that you need to get the holes cleared before using the screws.

Re: life adjust Z - my way

How can i change those correction value?

Re: life adjust Z - my way

In your printer: Calibration -> bed level correction

Re: life adjust Z - my way

.... How can I adjust the table to be level?...
there are 4 correction values that you can edit (front, left, right, rear) +/- 50µm.
that's to correct imperfections in the manufacturing of the heated bed.

if you need to "adjust" more than that, because of a severely curved or skewed printbed: use some washers between the standoffs and the screws.

💡 but (as i always try to mention) make sure that the printbed is not squeezed into the y-carriage frame. there are (and should be) no threads inside the y-carriage and the holes should fit perfectly to the standoffs of the heated bed.
when fixing the printbed to the y-carriage, there should be no force in y or x direction applied to the bolts, because this would cause the heated bed to get curved or skewed. only apply force in z-direction with the screws when assembling the printer...

my kit came along with some coating inside the holes of the y-carriage and i first thought that there are some threads inside. but this is not the case and it might be that you need to get the holes cleared before using the screws.

Can you post an image where are the holes that shouldn't have threads please?
Do you mean the 3d printed parts where the rods are?

Re: life adjust Z - my way

...Can you post an image where are the holes that shouldn't have threads please?

the picture is from the assembly manual, so please discard the arrow and the circle.
i meant all the holes where you put the screws to assemble the printbed through (the 4 at each edge and the 2 in the middle).

Re: life adjust Z - my way

Thanks. I will check this.

Re: life adjust Z - my way

I'm still having trouble with bed leveling. I can get my 75x75 print to come out fairly well. Whenever I do a 9 square that goes from one square to another, they look terrible. The perimeter line never sticks well either. I adjust the Live Z ranging from .280-400 throughout print to make it look somewhat decent.

I'm fairly certain my PINDA is positioned well because it calibrates fine. I also rearranged my gcode exports to do 9 point calibration prior to heating up.

I think its the bed screws. How tightly should these be placed? I saw recommendations to washers as needed which I will do after figuring out correct tightness.

Finally, it partially may be that I dont use glue for calibration, only prints so far. The glue stick makes it rather difficult to remove print though and noticing a little bubbling on the sheet where prints were previously attached. I saw recommendations for hairspray. Anyone have good luck with this without ruining printer?

Re: life adjust Z - my way

Great post! I'll be using this after my next print finishes.

Re: life adjust Z - my way

Very helpful. Thank you.

Re: life adjust Z - my way

Hello,
thank you very much for your calibration square.
I reseted my printer:
selftest .> OK
xyz calibration -> OK
Z calibration -> OK

printed your g.code (calibration_surface_75x75@200um_v3) and set the live Z to -0.630mm. I got a perfekt result for the second half square. After the print finished, i printed the same file again, without changed the Z Offset. My nozzle was raound about 1mm away from the bed. If i added again -0.630mm, than the result looks like the result bevore. It looks like, that the code did not save the z-offset in the system. The display shows me all the time the z-offset, but the nozzel is still to high.
Can this be a problem, becaus i used the german language in printer menu?

Regards Tim

Re: life adjust Z - my way

hi tim, use version v4 of the test-sheet. there "the magic" G87 command is added (like inside the genuine v2_calibration.gcode), so that the printer knows that calibration has been done and stores the live-adjust z value from then on.

Re: life adjust Z - my way

I'm joining the chorus of a million thanks Jeff! Mine was too low so I went from -550 to -500 to -450 to -400. Perfect with a measurement of .20 😀 😀