Issues with "Silk PLA"
I tried 2 "Silk PLA" (Amolen and Eryone) and I had issues.
I slowed print speed and still have same issues.
Does someone had successfull print with theses filaments on a MK3S ?
RE: Issues with "Silk PLA"
I just printed some Amolen Silk last night; used standard Prusa PLA settings. Printed very well.
That said, the most common thing that prevents adhesion is oils on the bed. Try cleaning the bed; use gloves and LOTS of alcohol, in several passes. Fresh paper towel each pass.
RE: Issues with "Silk PLA"
I've cleaned the build plate as proposed.
I moved from speed mk3 print setting to detailed mk3 in slicer. Still with Amolen Silk PLA (Grey this time).
I went further but were not able to finish the print.
In parallel, I used the blue version on my U20 and it works 🙁
I am trying again, I tried to mimic cura's slicer and the U20 moving to a grid infill and reducing speed of the MK3S to 90%.
See tomorow (hopefully)
RE: Issues with "Silk PLA"
Obviously your settings are way off from what's needed. Hard to say if it's speed, temp, cooling, all of the above.
I'd suggest you select the stock Prusa MK3S printer profile, the stock Prusa PLA profile, and the stock 0.15 mm Layer profile, and see how that prints. Don't change anything, just use defaults. See what happens.
RE: Issues with "Silk PLA"
I had same issues with the AMOLEN Silk PLA but thanks to their kind support I succeed in solving it.
They propose to suppress retraction from the print. It works but my print quality was not ok : plenty of bubbles were surfacing the print :
I then came back to the standard 0.2 quality mk3S with PLA setting and unflagged the Printer Setting / Retract on layer change parameter.
It keep back failing :
I retried flagging the Print Setting / Only retract when crossing perimeter.
And with this 2 parameters changed, the print came out great.
David
RE: Issues with "Silk PLA"
Final print 
RE: Issues with "Silk PLA"
Still have issue with PLA.
Now I tried the innofill PLA and like Silk PLA, my prints starts right but the nozzle end to be clogged after some layers at 215°.
Same print gets great with Dailyfill PLA on my mk3s and with the Innofil PLA on my CR10s pro.
I had also issues with the prusament PLA.
It's bothering me now for monthes.
What could be a solution ?
Changing the hotend ?
Regards
David
RE: Issues with "Silk PLA"
I suspect this is happening due to change in heatbreak that Prusa did to improve M3U prints. however at same time it seems to cause issues with normal prints using retractions.
Whats happening is that melted part of filament is getting from hot to cold zone and sometimes expand and cool enough to get stuck there.
If you check diagram bellow you see cold part of heatbreak have 2.2mm but right above hot zone it get reduced to 2.0mm diameter and thats exactly where filament get stuck.
My suggestion would be to get new original E3D heatbreak which have same diameter in both cold and hot part.
PS: myself had to switch also heaterblock and heater cartridge as screw holding heater cartridge was stuck in aluminium heater block to the point that it could not be removed.
Anyway for 3 months after heatbreak change I did not get single stuck filament issue.
RE: Issues with "Silk PLA"
Hi,
I finaly change all my heaterblock with an E3D V6 with a standard heatbreak.
have the same issue with the Eryone silk type filaments. What I have noticed is everytime is use this filament, It jams the nozzle and when I take out the filament there is an kind of enlarged filament part as if the diameter near the nozzle was larger than the 1.75mm filament size.
In your drawing, the cold part is larger but filed with the PTFE tube and that leave less room for the filament but near the nozzle it seems to be larger than the 1.75 mm filament. My be the solution is to slow down the print to give more time for the filament to melt in the nozzle. Il will try that.
Otherwise, I will use my CR10s pro for this filament since I had no issue with this printer.
RE: Issues with "Silk PLA"
Sorry to hear it did not solved your problem.
PTFE tube is inserted only in 1st 4.2mm wide part of heatbreak, not through full cold part.
2mm diameter is fine on end of heatbreak, it have to have slightly bigger diameter than fillament otherwise it could cause multiple isues.
What was problem is that 2mm hot part of heatbreak extended to 2.2mm in cold part of heatbreak. When you retracted melted filament from hot to cold area it sometimes expanded to 2.2mm and cooled enough to get stuck as it got difficult to push through smaller hole.
What helped in some cases is to increase temperature above normal PLA temperature range (230+) to give filament bigger temperature delta that it do not have time to coll down enough during retractions. However this does affect print quality.
RE: Issues with "Silk PLA"
I had same issues with the AMOLEN Silk PLA but thanks to their kind support I succeed in solving it.
They propose to suppress retraction from the print. It works but my print quality was not ok : plenty of bubbles were surfacing the print :
I then came back to the standard 0.2 quality mk3S with PLA setting and unflagged the Printer Setting / Retract on layer change parameter.
It keep back failing.
I retried flagging the Print Setting / Only retract when crossing perimeter.
And with this 2 parameters changed, the print came out great.
David
Im not quite following you. You say that the solution is:
- Standard 0.2 quality.
- Printer Setting / Retract on layer change ON
- Print Setting / Only retract when crossing perimeter ON
And thats it. No other change. Correct?
This sounds like only 1 change to me - because Printer Setting / Retract on layer change is on by default.
My printers: Mk3s / Mk3s clone with +upgrdaes (you know SPinda and all that good stuff) / Mini+ / Ender 3 v2
RE: Issues with "Silk PLA"
hi i have problems with this amolen pla silk rainbow. I used a prusa galaxy profile of my own -never failed and works with all my prusament filaments np. I loaded up the amolen and within 2 mins 1 blocked nozzle- on cold pull it broke just above the tube -motor removed and gears- managed to pull out. i then heated nozzle to 260,put 0.4mm rod down tube and 0.4mm nozzle cleaner up nozzle- all came out clear of debris-refitted all and then started a 5hr print with prusament black-perfect print- obviously the amulen needs different settings however i read an article on spring tension on filament quote
'When your filament isn’t fed through properly, you’ll get uneven extrusion similar to having a printing temperature that’s too low. You can get these filament feeder issues from having an improper spring tension on your printer’s extruder.
If your printer’s spring tension is too low, the wheel that grips the material won’t be able to generate enough pressure to consistently move the material through the printer.'
If your printer’s spring tension is too high, the wheel will grip your material with too much force and cause it to deform and change shape. You’re printing material has tolerances set for how wide it can be usually in the 0.02mm range for 1.75mm filament.
with this in mind not all filaments have the same 'hardness' it would be interesting to know if changing the spring tension on different filaments can cause blockages
a good write up at