Fixing broken wires on Heater Cartridge
Severe clogging, removed the nozzle for acetone (ABS) cleaning, and the red wires broke off during reattaching. (Heater Block dances around somewhat more than a few weeks ago when first assembled).
Must I replace the the Heater Cartridge? Or can cables be soldered back somehow? I presume the positition of the cables is not relavant - which goes where?
I've found E3D V6 12V 0,4mm complete extruder for 10€ in a Slovenian store (cant afford to wait for prusa to ship from Czechia), will it fit my MK3S?
RE: Fixing broken wires on Heater Cartridge
No, you cannot solder it; at hot-end temperatures you run the risk of it softening or melting completely. Spot welding or a good solid crimp might work but are still less than ideal.
No, that hot end will not fit. the Mk3 is 24v. Using it anyway will likely damage something. If your block is loose, then something is wrong with your assembly.
RE: Fixing broken wires on Heater Cartridge
First, thanks for a quick reply! So, what must I replace exactly? Heater cartridge?
Would this fit? Ekstruder E3D V6 24V 0,4mm
with removing that fan naturally. (I've got filament still stuck somewhere, replacing this whole part would solve this problem as well.
About loose block, it's not totally loose, I've checked Prusa guides for nozzle replacement, it's supposed to tilt somewhat. My dilemma is that's it's begun to tilt to easily after only second nozzle replacement. Is there a screw that I can tighten?
RE: Fixing broken wires on Heater Cartridge
Sounds like that would work, it is 24v. And yes, you'll only need to replace the heater cartridge but if you want you could replace the entire hot end for convenience and then service the damaged one at your leisure to keep it as a spare for future problems.
HOWEVER. beware that the leads on a replacement you buy may not be long enough - you'll either have to get one with the correct length (some resellers have the correct PRUSA style parts) or splice them yourself. This bit you can solder because the area you'd be soldering is nice and far away from the actual heater itself, as opposed to a break right next to it like you get when it is damaged during a de-blobbing effort.
Point of clarification - are you saying the block is loose compared to the heat break/heat sink? That is not normal and means it is not reassembled correctly after nozzle change. See the official E3D guide:
https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_Assembly
If you mean the entire hotend assembly is loose in the extruder housing (plastic PETG parts) then your parts have deformed from the blob-ening and you should get some new ones... it may be possible to fix it in place with something temporarily so you can print your own.
RE: Fixing broken wires on Heater Cartridge
Thx again, I will buy the said hotend and keep some spare parts. My brotherinlaw was putting together the extruder, and it seems that the heat block was not screwed tight enough to the heatsink, that would be my guess. Heatsink's position is secure.
I'll order some teflon tube as well, with all the pushing of needles to push the clogs through, i think it's possible that's damaged as well.
Which filament works best for extruder spare parts? ABS good enough?
RE: Fixing broken wires on Heater Cartridge
PETG is fine for anything but the fan shroud. But nothing wrong with making the whole thing from ABS.