First Run Install  

RE: First Run Install

RE: First Run Install

RE: First Run Install

This is the batman test, 10 mins in. it just moves off the bed and the filament gets clogged up around the nozzle after 10 mins in

RE: First Run Install

• A dirty PEI print surface. Even if you don't think this is the cause, it's always a good idea to make sure your PEI surface is clean before trying any other fixes. If it's a smooth PEI sheet, take it to the kitchen sink and give it a good dunk with Dawn (original formula, no vinegar or hand softener variants) dishwashing soap or your local equivalent (e.g. Fairy in UK). Use a clean paper towel to clean it off, and another to dry it. Avoid using any sponge or cloth that has been in contact with grease. Above all else, avoid touching the PEI print surface. Once it's good and clean, you should be able to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol between prints, 100% acetone when that fails , and another dunk when acetone fails. Worst-case, use a 3M 7445 ScotchBrite pad or equivalent on smooth PEI to give it a very light buff, but only infrequently. If you've got a textured powder-coated PEI print surface, the official instructions are to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol on it only. Rumors persist that some tribes deep in the jungle have had good luck getting started with these sheets by giving them a wipe with 100% acetone and a dunk with Dawn. Either way, there's no real warranty on these sheets. YMMV.
• If you have not already done so, try using Jeff Jordan's "Life Adjust" procedure for calibrating your Live-Z setting. It is much easier to use and understand than the on-board routine. It's much easier to make mid-print adjustments accurately with. In general, start high (less negative) and work lower (more negative) in large increments (e.g. 0.1mm) until the filament starts to stick on its own. When you've got your Live-Z setting adjusted properly, you should be able to gently rub the extruded lines on the PEI surface without dislodging them.  Then start lowering (more negative) the level until there are no gaps between layers.    

RE: First Run Install

your live Z is way too high

read thru Jeff's "Life Z My Way" for lots of help

RE: First Run Install

More echos ... two (and now three) references to "Jeff's Life Adjust My Way" thread.  And yes, Jeff misspelled Live -Z Adjust ...  I wish an admin would fix that title.

Since David repeated the Live-Z issue, I'll repeat the FINGERPRINTS ON THE BED ARE BAD.  It's best to get in the habit of handling the bed ONLY by the edges; avoid touching the print surface with your hands or fingers. Instead, use tools to remove parts.  Don't fall into the group that thinks fingerprints don't hurt the print process and argue soap and water isn't as good as alcohol for cleaning. 

Keep the bed clean and save yourself hours of frustration.

RE: First Run Install

Posted by: Tim

More echos ... two (and now three) references to "Jeff's Life Adjust My Way" thread.  And yes, Jeff misspelled Live -Z Adjust ...  I wish an admin would fix that title.

It used to drive me crazy seeing that thread on the front page every time. As time's gone on, I've grown to like it. For many people, it is transformative information, even if not truly "life adjusting". I think understanding adhesion and Live-Z is a big hurdle for new users. Also makes it easy to find the thread with a search.

RE: First Run Install

Thanks for everyones comments above, the guide was a life saver ! And cant believe I missed the Z adjustment on the wizard !

I started a print, was looking good ! Only 30 mins of a 4 hour print ! and it started printing nothing, well it was progressing but nothing coming out of the nozzle ! Now I can't remove the filament and is jammed and cant print anything 🙁 ! I've sent an email to Prusa hoping there tech support can help

RE: First Run Install

As you can see, this was a pic of it printing ! 

RE: First Run Install

The blockage is below this point, I tried to remove the filament on the settings and give it a pull but nothing its pretty jammed

RE: First Run Install

1. Raise Z to max.
2. Open the extruder housing door.
3. Inspect the top of the white PTFE tube below the gear. If you can see the top of the snapped filament, use tweezers or needle-nose pliers to pull it out. If this worked, you're done.
4. Set nozzle temp to 285C.
5. Use a 6in/15cm 1.5mm rod (e.g. brass available from hobby stores) or a small hex wrench to poke down from the top, past the open Bondtech gear and into the PTFE tube. With any luck, you'll be able to push the stuck bit down into the hotend where it'll melt and be extracted, or at least far enough you can feed filament down after it. Brace the extruder with your free hand to avoid twisting, and don't press too hard. If the stuck filament moved and was extruded, you're done.
6. You can also try removing the nozzle and poking from above or below. Read up on the E3D recommended nozzle changing procedure! If this worked, you're done.
7. If you encounter an obstruction that won't ease out, try holding the rod with pliers and pushing from below. The rod will heat up and hopefully melt whatever's blocking the path, poking up and out of the PTFE tube to where you can grab it. If this worked, you're done.

If none of these steps clear the blockage, you may be looking at tearing down the extruder. I've got pictures of the process here.

RE: First Run Install

Sending email to Prusa is not that effective for problem troubleshooting. Use CHAT: