First print tips  

Re: First print tips

Make sure your z is adjusted properly. Here is a good place to start reading: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f62/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html

Re: First print tips

Hold back your urges....
Work in millimeters... even if you prefer inches....
have you got a vernier caliper or other accurate measuring device? if not, there is still time to get one... useful for measuring first layer thicknesses, to see how close to the intended first layer thickness, the first layer is, as you adjust liveZ, verniers are also invaluable for measuring things when you start designing your own models... (fantastic for converting measurements between metric and imperial... (BUT do your models in METRIC units....))

you get Silver PLA in the box... Play with that first, leave PEtg ABS etc. till later... (in my case Leave ABS totally out of the picture) YMMV

Boring but necessary, Make sure your build plate is scrupulously clean... (Your recycling team will thank you!)
Take your time to get Live Z adjusted Spot on! try Jeff Jordan's "Life adjust Z My way" https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f62/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html#p107158
the version6.1 files are in the first message on page 1 and cover PLA, PETG and ABS...
once that's sorted,

print some sample Gcodes off the SD Card, first...

then download and slice some items off say Thingiverse and print those... try small models first...

then perhaps risk a bigger model... BUT remember to keep your build plate clean

when these prints are successful, design something for yourself, slice and print it!

And above all, enjoy yourself...

regards Joan

Oh. did I mention using millimeters... not inches.... 😈

Re: First print tips

Thanks great info - and yes millimetres is my preferred unit of measurement (BTW I say Zed rather than Zee) 🙂 and I get the need for calibration ( I have callipers). - I actually want to make functioning objects and not trinkets.

I realise z is the vertical layer height but what is meant by live z

And are you both suggesting I should make test cubes first? if so does the link (it is a very long thread) have a 3d file example

thanks again
and i was mistaken about the printer arriving next week - it is later today!!)

Re: First print tips

Hi John,

You print what you want to print...
the Pinda probe (Prusa INDuction Autoleveling sensor) , senses where the buildplate is, but the printer does not know where the extruder is, in relation to the Pinda sense point... Live Z, is an LCD option which allows you to adjust the extruder to the ideal level relevant to the Pinda probe, in order to create a good first layer. (see jeff jordan's thread 'Life adjust Z my way') note the PINDA errs on the side of safety, so the nozzle should always start higher than the build plate, to prevent damage. Live 'Z' is always a negative number that is unique to your printer at the time of configuration... (today, mine is -.730 using a stainless steel 0.4mm nozzle with PETG) if I changed the nozzle I would have to check live Z adjustment, PLA and TPU may need minor adjustments of live Z. I don't print other filaments at the moment

there are plenty of people already worrying about disfigured Benchy's and frazzled calibration cubes... so you don't need to do it! unless you want to

my idea, is
first, try printing something which should print properly, because it's been sliced and tested before being included on the SD card... (Takes away most of your opportunities to mess it up in your excitement!)

Second, try slicing someone else's model, from a reasonably reputable site... if you choose a model that others have had success with, then any errors are likely to be in your operation of your preferred slicer... I suggest you start with Slic3r prusa edition...

finally, get on with your own designs.... now you are responsible for ensuring the vertical walls are thicker than the Nozzle extrusion width, and that the surface details are appropriate to your chosen layer height, etc.

If a fleet of Benchy's floats your boat... go for it...
If you are happy with frogs, fill your boots....
i have to admit I have printed both... the grand kids like them...

so far I have never printed Aadalinda, Buddy, Nefertitti the beer bottle opener, or triceratops skull...

out of interest, what would you like to print as a functional object?

my last three jobs were:
a set of rain hoods to keep water out of the antenna connector on my outdoor Wifi security cameras,
an 'Anti cant, brace' for a target rifle bipod. and
a case for an arduino development board...

I designed the first two myself, the third came off thingiverse! it's printing as I write... the display says 1 hour 57minutes remaining... so I will leave it to print whilst I am in bed...

on that note, good night!
regards Joan...

Re: First print tips

Live 'Z' is always a negative number that is unique to your printer at the time of configuration... (today, mine is -.730 using a stainless steel 0.4mm nozzle with PETG)

out of interest, what would you like to print as a functional object?

So if the extruder is touching the heat bed it has a z value of 0?

and after the first layer I should stop the printer and measure the height?

Im designing a Pedal Steel Guitar which has a lot of moving parts for example: ( http://sierrasteels.com/gallery/new-pedal-steel-gallery.html ) which need prototyping and hopefully make some of them with a material like Carbonium Nylon which can stand a bit of stress. Images not mine BTW.

cheers

Re: First print tips

Oh. did I mention using millimeters... not inches.... 😈

Does the inch, foot, pound system still exist 😮
It should be the SI system (Système International d'unités) with millimeters that apply today.

By 1977, the entire EU would use the SI system, the United Kingdom 1975, the Soviet Union 1975, and Australia, India, Canada, South Africa and others. The United States decided in 1975 to transition to SI.

But according to Wikipedia, the United States, Burma and Liberia have not yet introduced the SI system, 40 years later! 😀

Re: First print tips

Good morning John,
3D printers are 'Intersting' to get your head round...

So if the extruder is touching the heat bed it has a z value of 0?

and after the first layer I should stop the printer and measure the height?

Z value 0.00 is notionally where the extruder would touch the bed, however that's not a good thing to do... as you are likely to damage your PEI or Nozzle or Heatbreak (Possibly all of them). I understand that Prusa have engineered a minimum First layer thickness of 0.15mm within the printer firmware. to prevent this. (assuming that your Pinda probe and Live Z are set up correctly!)

when setting up the printer, it is incredibly important to get your first layer correct. if that doesn't stick, your model will fail.,

If it's not squished, or not squished enough, your first layer will be thicker than expected, which will also lead to inaccuracy in vertical dimensions. (if you peel a test panel, that is under extruded, off the build plate, the filament lines will be separate, or separate easily like miniature spaghetti...)

if the first layer is just right, a test piece will peel off the buildplate and you will have a single sheet where all of the filament lines are joined together, and the underside will be as smooth as the PEI surface... if you measure the thickness this should be pretty much what you set the first layer to be say 0.2mm the top surface should be smooth... (note I suspect a textured build plate will cause this thickness to be marginally thicker, to cater for the surface texture imparted on the model. but I don't have a textured build plate to play with! 🙁 )

if it's too squished, there is insufficient space for the extruded plastic, between the nozzle and the build plate, in bad cases this will cause the plastic to squirm out of the gap causing ridges and ripples, which will reduce adhesion, and oddly, cause a thicker than expected first layer... and the top surface will be rippled or rough....

no point moving forward if your first layer is rubbish...
Prusa first layer tool is available via your LCD Menu. https://help.prusa3d.com/l/en/article/ZhBlGFD9Ah-live-adjust-z
It's hard to get right...

Jeff Jordan's test piece is easier to work with... https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f62/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html use the v6.1 profiles from the first post!

you can't normally pop a single layer print off the build plate, by flexing... either use a scrap piece of plastic, or credit care, to push against the edge of the model, causing it to buckle and lift, or put a few drops of IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol, sometimes called Isopropanol, on the build plate at a corner of the model, and it should reduce adheson to the bed.

treat your build plate with care and it will last ages treat it rough, or get it greasy and you will have a bad day!

good luck,

Im designing a Pedal Steel Guitar which has a lot of moving parts for example: ( http://sierrasteels.com/gallery/new-pedal-steel-gallery.html ) which need prototyping and hopefully make some of them with a material like Carbonium Nylon which can stand a bit of stress. Images not mine BTW.

That's a big project, and the proposed filament is more exotic and less manageable for a beginner...

definitely do some simpler prints to get a handle on what the materials properties can give you... there is a temptation, to push the envelope too far... some things are better not 3D printed... some items can be modeled in 3D materials, then embedded in sand, or refactory plaster, the plastic can be melted/burned out, and metal can be cast into the resulting void!

Before you even open a roll of nylon filament, make sure you have a way of preventing moisture absorbtion... sealed container with silica gel, or heated chamber or..... there are many alternatives... do yourself a favour, keep exotic filament in a low humidity environment... PLA is pretty resillient to moisture PVA and BVOH are like sponges, they suckmoisture in, at an alarming rate! I believe other filaments are in between...

Welcome to the wonderful world of additive manufacturing...

Joan

Re: First print tips

Report: so far so good. A few hiccups including the new firmware forcing me to recalibrate. But the prints are looking excellent and as good as I had hoped.