First Layer Problems
I was talking to a friend of mine that just finished building his own massive 500x500x500 Core XY (his prints are awesome) we went over the whole printer all belts are tight, all screws are tight, extruder is feeding correctly, all Steps are correct and calibrated
We spent three hours on my mistake even he couldn’t believe how unstable it is.
The Design is a simple 40x40x.2
Printing with the latest Slic3r with Prusa Filament at .2, using the latest files from GitHub, bed cleaned after each print, and printing on real BuildTak on a Buildtak spring steel sheet
Reading from Left to Right across both pages N=Nozzle temp, Z=Z-offset, B=bed, F=Flow
Left Page
N215, B60, F95, Z725 N210, B55, F95, Z725 N205, B50, F95, Z725
N205, B50, F95, Z720 N205, B50, F95, Z715 N205, B50, F95, Z710
N705, B50, F95, Z700 N205, B50, F95, Z695 N205, B50, F95, Z695
Right Page
N705, B50, F95, Z685 N705, B50, F95, Z680 N705, B50, F95, Z675
N705, B50, F95, Z670 N705, B50, F95, Z625 N705, B50, F95, Z660
N705, B50, F95, Z615 N705, B50, F95, Z605
N705, B50, F95, Z655 N705, B50, F95, Z650 N705, B50, F95, Z635
Re: First Layer Problems
The probe's temperature calibration is very touchy, I get the best results when starting prints (and thus the mesh level) at the same temp. ie; start the print immediately when I hit the nozzle temp (and before the heatsink exhaust starts to warm up the probe).
however RC2 and 3.2 improved this dramatically for me.
Re: First Layer Problems
For a rock solid first layer you need to calibrate the PINDA temperature compensation.
It takes an evening to do it - but you will not look back. I have not touched live Z for months now - and boy did my MK3 suffer from that in the beginning.
Please read the last four or five pages of this: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/hardware-firmware-and-software-help-f64/1st-layer-problems-in-depth-look-at-software-pinda-t14815-s150.html on how to do it.
And a TDLR can be found here:
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/wiki/Manual-temperature-calibration
AFTER you have done that manual temperature calibration you COULD do what you have done. But it is not necessary as the live Z tweaking is so much straight forward when your offsets are spot on