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Fiddledeedee
(@fiddledeedee)
Active Member
Crook printing lines

Hello everbody,

I've finished assembling the printer today, the self test went through with no errors, I can load and unload filament.

The sheet of paper during the first tests did not move.

However during the first layer test I receive results like in the first two pictures. I tried to print the raspberry pi case afterwards (3rd picture), but canceled it after few seconds.

I'm not even sure which axes are wrong (looks a bit like all have a problem (except for maybe z). What do you think?

Posted : 28/01/2019 7:50 pm
hiram.b
(@hiram-b)
Active Member
Re: Crook printing lines

I have the same problem, but im received the printer assembled. I have the same question, what is happening??!!

Posted : 28/01/2019 7:57 pm
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member
Re: Crook printing lines

It looks like your Live-Z adjustment (the initial height between nozzle tip and bed) is too high. This will cause all kinds of problems with adhesion. Getting this right is essential as the 1st layer is literally the foundation that the rest of your print is built on.

Complete the on-board Live-Z adjustment at least once. It looks like you've done this already. Then do yourself a huge favor and go read up on the "Life Adjust" thread. Jeff Jordan's method for doing Live-Z calibration is much easier to use and understand.

Once you've got your Live-Z calibrated properly, start doing diagnostic prints to troubleshoot more specific problems.

One key: Keep your PEI sheet clean. Avoid touching it at all costs. Clean with 91%+ isopropyl alcohol regularly. Use 100% acetone when alcohol fails. If you have persistent problems, dunk it under the kitchen sink with Dawn dish soap (or your local equivalent) and wash and dry it with plain paper towels. Don't use dish cloths that might have grease on them. And above all else, avoid touching it at all costs.

My notes and disclaimers on 3D printing

and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan

Posted : 28/01/2019 8:50 pm
gnat
 gnat
(@gnat)
Noble Member
Re: Crook printing lines


Then do yourself a huge favor and go read up on the "Life Adjust" thread. Jeff Jordan's method for doing Live-Z calibration is much easier to use and understand.

This!

My pre-assembled printer was doing fine but then I managed to select a few incorrect menu options and screw it all up. My factory live Z test came out kinda like the picture above (I just can't see the visualization they tell you to look for). Started to try a print and it also looked like the above example so I killed it.

Did the "life adjust" calibration and all is better in the world now (end up at .770 or .760, I forget). It's actually now printing better than it did before as I ran a .05mm test print that looked FAR better than the previous prints I'd done at that resolution.

MMU tips and troubleshooting
Posted : 28/01/2019 9:16 pm
Fiddledeedee
(@fiddledeedee)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Crook printing lines

Thanks for your insights.

I tried the calibration again and the paper was moving. That led me to readjust the pint sensor (lower it). Unfortunately that worsened things (see picture).

A question of understanding:
Do I understand correctly that the higher the print head is while extruding the rounder the corners in the first layer calibration would be? So in my case would I have to calibrate the print head to go further down to improve my results?

In addition I cleaned the bedsheet with alcohol.

I'll try using the z calibration method you proposed, but that will have to wait until tomorrow.

Posted : 29/01/2019 12:09 am
gnat
 gnat
(@gnat)
Noble Member
Re: Crook printing lines

What is your current Live Z setting?

In following the Prusa method (and it being my first time) I was terrified of impacting the PEI sheet and only ended up with something like 0.1 or something way too low. Looking at the "Life Adjust" thread I saw examples of .4 to .8 and got braver. I started at .4 and went up in .01 steps after I got to .6 or so. Printing the supplied (in that thread) square made it much easier to see the effect of the tuning compared to Prusa's builtin test print.

MMU tips and troubleshooting
Posted : 29/01/2019 12:18 am
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member
Re: Crook printing lines


[...]
A question of understanding:
Do I understand correctly that the higher the print head is while extruding the rounder the corners in the first layer calibration would be? So in my case would I have to calibrate the print head to go further down to improve my results?
The lines should have square corners. You should be able to run your fingers across each line without it dislodging. On the Mk3, more negative numbers lower the nozzle towards the bed.

You are very high by the look of things. Try decreasing (going more negative) by 0.02mm or more increments until the lines start gripping the PEI sheet solidly, then use finer increments. I can usually go with very coarse increments until there's a visible change, then slow down to narrow in on the right value. Again, the Life Adjust method makes all this much simpler to understand.

My notes and disclaimers on 3D printing

and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan

Posted : 29/01/2019 12:28 am
Fiddledeedee
(@fiddledeedee)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Crook printing lines

Good evening everyone,

ok, after running the prusa calibration again I allowed the sheet of paper to get caught. While already running the live z adjustment during the first layer calibration I could observe that already makes a big difference even I only lowered the head relatively little.

Then I ran the calibration method by Jeff and lowered the head even a lot more down to a delta of around 0.600 (as you also mentioned). Instead of a very unstable mesh from the first print it became a relatively durable surface in the second one. I'll try some regular prints now before adjusting anything else.

By no means would I have thought the adjustment of one axxis alone could solve my problem. I had feared I would have to disassemble the better part of the printer 😀 .

Thanks a lot for your help to you!!!!!!

Posted : 30/01/2019 12:34 am
gnat
 gnat
(@gnat)
Noble Member
Re: Crook printing lines


I'll try some regular prints now before adjusting anything else.

No need. Just grab your calipers and keep printing the square. You want it to be as solid of a surface as possible with a thickness as close to the layer height (.2mm IIRC, but double check) as possible.

MMU tips and troubleshooting
Posted : 30/01/2019 5:16 pm
Chocki
(@chocki)
Prominent Member
Re: Crook printing lines

Also, read and follow this, it will help you a lot going forward, as I have stated elsewhere, the PRUSA live-z adjustment gets you close but not perfect, reading this thread and following it and then trying the adjustments yourself will help you a lot.
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f62/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html

Normal people believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet.

Posted : 30/01/2019 5:37 pm
Fiddledeedee
(@fiddledeedee)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Crook printing lines

I didn't have time to do any further adjustments since last night. But I quickly started printing the raspberry pi zero case. I must say I'm positively surprised.

I used to have a Micro 3D printer few years ago. In my case the only thing it did was to cause so much frustration that I had abandoned all my own activities in this 3d printing field since then. It practically didn't finish any print at all (either it wasted the print in between or lost the filament). The case practically hid the axises so one could really tweak anything. Enough ranting. I basically wanted to say I don't regret buying the prusa.

For further adjustments I'll need to rely on my eye. I don't have any tools to measure length below 1mm at hand.

Posted : 30/01/2019 10:07 pm
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