ASA print went wrong
Anyone had issues printing ASA on prusa mk3 without enclosure?
The filament is from fillamentum, all specs accounted for.
On the right side, it was perfect, on the left side it appears to somehow shrunk. Weird "scar" line showing up.
Pictures in attach
Re: ASA print went wrong
So I did some more testing to help out the solving but also to document the issue for future users!
1 - I did try some changes in the PEI sheet, like cleaning with different products (like Joseph said in the video), change side, etc, but always found the left side of the print/brim not perfect, and stringy.
2 - I've rotated the printer 90 degrees to check if the mid left of the print was affected the same way, or in a different way. Different could mean bad levelling (weird when previous prints in PLA where ok). The outcome = the same as indicated in #1!!!
3 - Raised both the bed and nozzle temps to the max the supplier indicates (90 to 100 and 250 to 255), but the results are the same.
4 - I've noticed a strange noise/trepidation while the hot end travels left (counter clock wise), that matches the bad printing zones.
Could it be a bad aligned axis? If so shouldn't it be auto levelled or given an error?
Anyone had a similar issue?
Re: ASA print went wrong
Hello all
I've re-calibrated every axis, changed to PLA again (easier to print than ASA), and as you can check in attach, the issue keeps going when the nozzle goes to the left side.
I'm a bit lost here, as there's nothing in my mind that explains it, specially after making good prints in the past.
Any help?
Re: ASA print went wrong
So, after many testing the solution is somehow awkward.
I've printed it upside down, and the issue kept showing up in the same area of the PEI sheet. (photo attached).
I've moved the piece out of the center, to the right side and bingo! perfect print. *
So my conclusion is the PEI sheet is somehow distorted/crooked. Anyone else has this issue?
*The previous prints where ok because I was double printing and the center was not used for the piece itself but for the brim of the 2 pieces...
Re: ASA print went wrong
I am also running into a similar issue with ASA on my MK3. It might be the heat bed distorting slightly at 105c on mine. I can print a .2mm layer over the entire bed with perfect results when using PLA on a 60c bed. At 105c with ASA I seem to consistently get the same low areas and a few high spots. When dropping to 100c, sometimes it's good, sometimes it's bad.
I can say that my issue is nowhere near as bad as yours looks. BTW, I'm using 3DXTech ASA with pretty much stock "0.20mm FAST MK3" print settings, but reducing max print speeds to 70mm/sec. Also I keep the printer enclosed except for the top, which mostly just cuts down on drafts, but the enclosed area gets between 75 and 80F at table level (behind printer, below print bed level).
Re: ASA print went wrong
I'm finishing my enclosure project, will update the community with a new topic on that!
Also, Prusa gave me some hints and troubleshooting options to check it out. Feedback soon.
Cheers
Re: ASA print went wrong
a low spot like that where your first layer is separate strings means that the bed in that area is too low if after your first layer testing and getting as good as you can outlined here https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f62/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html
an identified low spot on your bed can be temporarily ameliorated by putting pieces of tissue paper between the heat bed and the steel plate in those low areas (then keep running https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f62/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html and move the 75 x75 mm test swatch by printing it in those areas and once your Z setting is giving you as good result all over the plate as can bee identify those low spots and shim them up a vey tiny amount if your thinest paper is too thick try cigaret rolling paper it is the thinest that is available in most areas
then you can decide which permanent fix to use later; measure the thickness of the paper you choose (ordinary copy paper is about 0.08 mm thick and is rather too thick for fine adjustments try tissue paper. This trick is handy for a quick fix when you have to print something that covers your whole bed and you have not bothered with the various mechanical fixes discussed in this thread because 90% of what you print is in the middle of your bed where mesh leveling covers up the problem. NOT A PERMANENT FIX