Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
The manual explaining how to change nozzle indicates that a size 17 spanner should be used to hold the heat block. I have an adjustable spanner, is that ok to use instead of a fixed 17 size?
I got the replacement nozzles in the mail. I can't believe how tiny they are! I don't know why I was expecting something bigger.
Re: Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
Adjustable tools should be OK.
Keep eye on heating element, thermistor and their wires. Don't get them damaged.
Re: Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
You should have two 17 mm spanners from the build kit, if you got a kit. 🙂
Regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
You should have two 17 mm spanners from the build kit, if you got a kit. 🙂
Regards Joan
Ah very good I got that part down now.
However, I bought a 7mm spanner and don't have the strength to unscrew the nozzle. I heated it to 220 and turn counter clockwise but it seems I'm stripping the nozzle instead. What am I doing wrong?
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Extra-Nozzles/E3D-7mm-Nozzle-Spanner
Re: Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
You need more heat. Heat it up to 300. Tools take a lot of heat off, so you need to provide more heat and work fast.
Re: Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
You need more heat. Heat it up to 300. Tools take a lot of heat off, so you need to provide more heat and work fast.
The settings don't allow it to go to 300. I went up to 285 and it still won't come off. The picture in the doc looks like needle nose pliers so I thought it would be easy. Now I stripped it so i can't even use the 7mm spanner I got from e3d nor pliers. I guess I need to buy a better 7mm spanner. I think I am the only one who can't even remove a nozzle.
Re: Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
Using gloves is a good idea too, if you are as clumsy as me 🙂
For nozzle untighenting, I really prefer this kind of socket wrench
I'm like Jon Snow, I know nothing.
Re: Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
In the past I have found that a socket set was the easiest way to remove the nozzle (in association with heat of course) - any concerns with that approach?
Re: Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
Using gloves is a good idea too, if you are as clumsy as me 🙂
For nozzle untighenting, I really prefer this kind of socket wrench
Ok, socket wrench makes the most sense it would seem. I imagine for tightening I should use the regular spanner so as not to over-tighten. Good point about gloves, I better wear those with my luck. Thanks.
Re: Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
I got the socket wrench and managed to twist the nozzle right off. Unfortunately the upper part of the nozzle remains in the hotend. Does this mean I need to order this:
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/V6-hotend-Fully-Assembled-1.75mm-and-3mm
12v / Direct / 1.75mm
Or is there something else I should get or do?
Re: Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
You can probably get by to just order the Block and Sock kit.
and an 8 inch (200mm) or greater caliper is recommended.
Re: Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
You can probably get by to just order the Block and Sock kit.
I ended up ordering the full kit so I have less to mess up on for now, although with my ability I'm getting nervous how to replace it.
Re: Replacing nozzle - Why is size 17 spanner needed instead of adjustable?
You need more heat. Heat it up to 300. Tools take a lot of heat off, so you need to provide more heat and work fast.
The settings don't allow it to go to 300. I went up to 285 and it still won't come off. The picture in the doc looks like needle nose pliers so I thought it would be easy. Now I stripped it so i can't even use the 7mm spanner I got from e3d nor pliers. I guess I need to buy a better 7mm spanner. I think I am the only one who can't even remove a nozzle.
Have you tried one of these?
900 ft-lb's ought to do it 😀
Don't worry, I may have manged to get my nozzle off fairly easily, while building it I nearly chucked the printer out the window when I could not for the life of me get the damn air-duct thing to go on. If the bolt would thread, it went on crooked, if it was properly positioned, I couldn't get the bolt to thread. Maddening!