Print not sticking to print bed side to side  

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

Martin

Pre-built printers have had a print run prior to despatch, so it should be set up and ready to go. There is the possibility that something moved during shipment, so adjustments may be necessary.

Firstly, check the firmware version; the latest and what appears to be the best so far is 3.0.5 RC, available for download from these forums.

You say that you have run the V2 calibration. How did that work out? Was there much adjustment required during that print?

Peter

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

Have you given the print bed a really good clean with IPA? Also when I print with PLA I have found it sticks a lot better when the first layer is printed with the heatbed at 70°C. Finally try lowering the Live Z Adjust a bit lower if you can, I found it better to make it too low then work back up than the other way around. At first I couldn't get the calibration print to stick or look right but once I done these 3 things mine has stuck brilliant every time! In fact I've yet to have a failed print due to a problem with the printer! 😀

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

70 degrees is more than the glass transitions temp of PLA, but I have noted that the temperature on top of the bed is up to 7 degrees lower than the thermistor reading - due to thermistor placement and there being only a single thermistor.

With the Mk2, I run the bed at 60 degrees which works for me (I use 55 degrees for the Mk1).

It does rather sound like Z adjustment in this instance.

Peter

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

A good way to calibrate the Z axis when using firmware 3.0.5:

Start off with a cold printer.

NOTE: This will only work with 3.0.5RC. Earlier firmware versions have a larger minimum nozzle gap. Copy paper is usually about 0.1mm thick.

Peter

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

Thanks for the responses above.

I haven't tried increasing the bed temp as yet. This is a good idea, I will try this first as its the quickest suggestion. I've spend a lot of time finding the limits of the calibration. At -0.650 The calibration line appears perfect, but not sticking enough, short of having the nozzle ploughing a channel in the extrusion At about -0.870. I have started two prints for the 3Dhubs Marvin Keyring and both failed because the model stuck to the nozzle more than the bed (one about 50% one 25% complete).

The version of firmware I have is 3.0.4 (I think, will need to check tonight). It certainly isn't the most recent Beta version. If the increase in bed temp doesn't work, I'll upgrade. Another good suggestion.

I have cleaned the bed numerous times with alcohol wipes and window cleaner as I don't have IPA. Looks like I need some ASAP. The bed does look very clean, and as I said above, I am getting consistent adhesion front to back, just only light. This to me suggests bed cleanliness is not the issue. Again, very much worth a try though.

I do wonder if the printer was knocked putting in, in transit, or taking out the box.

I have check the flatness of the bed with a straight edge, opposite corner to corner and all points in between. Its flat.

I have check the PINDA. This is properly positioned.

Thanks
Martin

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

Martin

Get the firmware upgraded as soon as possible. For me 3.0.5 has been much more reliable and consistent than any earlier version.

Don't forget, the first layers are printed at 0.15mm; you only need a change of 0.05mm to make the difference between a good stick and no adhesion. No need to make adjustments of 0.2+ mm when you are very close to getting it right.

One more thing... The Prusa logo is a good model to get started with at a layer height of 0.2mm.

Peter

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

Martin

Get the firmware upgraded as soon as possible. For me 3.0.5 has been much more reliable and consistent than any earlier version.

Don't forget, the first layers are printed at 0.15mm; you only need a change of 0.05mm to make the difference between a good stick and no adhesion. No need to make adjustments of 0.2+ mm when you are very close to getting it right.

One more thing... The Prusa logo is a good model to get started with at a layer height of 0.2mm.

Peter

Hi Peter, many thanks I followed your advice and downloaded the new firmware. It helped immeasurably!

I managed to print the Prusa logo, it still didn't adhere as well as expected, but I got a print of sorts. The z axis is closer to -0.830mm now, but I'm still fine tuning. Will try a hotter bed tomorrow too.

Thanks
Martin

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

Have you given the print bed a really good clean with IPA? Also when I print with PLA I have found it sticks a lot better when the first layer is printed with the heatbed at 70°C. Finally try lowering the Live Z Adjust a bit lower if you can, I found it better to make it too low then work back up than the other way around. At first I couldn't get the calibration print to stick or look right but once I done these 3 things mine has stuck brilliant every time! In fact I've yet to have a failed print due to a problem with the printer! 😀

Hi 3Delight, I tried the working back you and Peter suggested, tomorrow I will try the hotter 1st layer on the bed you suggest. I feel I'm nearly there now!

Thanks
Martin

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

A good way to calibrate the Z axis when using firmware 3.0.5:

Start off with a cold printer.

NOTE: This will only work with 3.0.5RC. Earlier firmware versions have a larger minimum nozzle gap. Copy paper is usually about 0.1mm thick.

Peter

Thank you Peter!!! This procedure was the last piece of the puzzle to made it all work for me, now the prints are sticking really nicely even without increasing the bed temperature.

Mikael

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

Thats cool. Wish I tried that before. You say copy paper? Is that just normal paper that you print with? Blank paper or is that a special copy paper like tracing paper? 😳

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

I just used ordinary printer paper, worked really well.

Mikael

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

Ben

Regular copier/printer paper 70 to 80gsm or thereabouts.

Peter

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

So I followed the advice and got the printer working. I produced some really good work until yesterday when the printer suddenly stopped feeding filament half way through a nice print. It printed some really bobbly little spots when I tried doing a G code calibration, the I realised the filament is just not feeding. The feed is wording.

I have cleaned the nozzle (with a wire brush and a 0.3mm wire) and cleaned the feeder mechanism. The problem seems to be the filament feed is blocked. Any ideas on how to deal with this?

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

So I followed the advice and got the printer working. I produced some really good work until yesterday when the printer suddenly stopped feeding filament half way through a nice print. It printed some really bobbly little spots when I tried doing a G code calibration, the I realised the filament is just not feeding. The feed is wording.

I have cleaned the nozzle (with a wire brush and a 0.3mm wire) and cleaned the feeder mechanism. The problem seems to be the filament feed is blocked. Any ideas on how to deal with this?

I typically try to use some eSun cleaning filament in this case and feed it through manually. If that doesn't work, replace the nozzle while the hotend is hot. I've had pretty good success with eSun cleaning filament.

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

So I followed the advice and got the printer working. I produced some really good work until yesterday when the printer suddenly stopped feeding filament half way through a nice print. It printed some really bobbly little spots when I tried doing a G code calibration, the I realised the filament is just not feeding. The feed is wording.

I have cleaned the nozzle (with a wire brush and a 0.3mm wire) and cleaned the feeder mechanism. The problem seems to be the filament feed is blocked. Any ideas on how to deal with this?

Is it possible that you've got a clog at the nozzle? If so, you can try a cold pull? From the bottom of http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the
"So what we do when changing filament is to heat the print head up to printing temperature. Then push filament manually until it starts coming out of the nozzle. Then lower the temperature and finally pull the filament out with a quick tug once the temperature reaches ~85-90C. When you now insert the new material you wont have to flush the old colour out, you'll get the new colour immediately and you will have cleaned the nozzle at the same time."
If that doesn't work, you can try the atomic or cold pull described at the top of the above page.

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

Many thanks for the replies above.

Today I finally got time and stripped the nozzle, it turns out it was a jam up the hot end. I cleared it after much swearing with some brass rod. The cause appears to be a poorly wound filament reel. The tension got to tight and it snapped inside.

Re: Print not sticking to print bed side to side

Peter's procedure, as I shall call it forever more, solved my problem, too. It should be added to the setup section of the printer manual. Now everything seems to be working perfectly. 🙂

Ray