Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X  

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

We cannot take responsibility for the print materials we did not test ourselves. For the next time, you may try to clean the bed with a window cleaner instead of IPA. We use the Clin cleaner by Henkel for printing PET on our print farm.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

I made a bigger print with ASA-X ( https://www.3dware.ch/Filament-ASA-X-Black-1.75mm-750g-En.htm ) on weekends. Printed at 240°/80°.
The printing area is nearly covered . The print went well and the parts looking good, but are simply unable to remove.
On a smaller part, I have tried a lot (I spent a whole day). This caused damages to the PEI, but the part I couldn't remove anyway.
Normally this material has a strong tendency to warp, which is why I have printed with Brim. That does not just improve the situation.
My next idea is to remove the parts including PEI. Before I do that, I wanted to ask if anyone has a better idea.

Regards Jens

I've done some printing with ASA, it sticks very well. Have you tried heat up the build plate and then remove? Another tip is to remove the heatbed and put it in a freezer, to see what happens.
I tend to really be careful with having the nozzle too close to the heatbed when printing with the super-sticky materials like ASA, FilaFlex etc. I almost air-print. That's the only solution I've found worked.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

Vojtěch

I know, I dont't blame you. No worries, I had to try a small part first.

To be clear, this is not to residues. The entire parts adhere to the bed so that I can not remove.
I do not quite understand what the bed cleaning does it matter. I usually clean it with Isopropyl and/or Acetone and before that print, the surface was looking like brand new.

Jens

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

Patrik

I have tried already with different temperatures. No chance.
I will try the freezer method next. This seems to be the best method to remove the PEI sheet too, so I can do this after the second freezing if I still can't remove the parts.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

I do not quite understand what the bed cleaning does it matter.
Some window cleaners contain polishing ingredients leaving thin film on treated surface causing less adhesion. It is undesirable for example with PLA, but could help in this case.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

Ah ok, I see it now. So I should clean the bed with window cleaner before printing such super sticky materials to reduce adhesion. Thanks.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

A light dusting with talcum powder will prevent over-adhesion and is easy to clean off afterwards.

Peter

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

A light dusting with talcum powder will prevent over-adhesion and is easy to clean off afterwards.

Peter

Good tip Peter, thanks 🙂 i need to try that with some of my more sticky materials.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

Yesterday I further tried to remove the parts. I put the bed in the Freezer, but but also at -24° nothing could be done.
After several attempts, I managed to remove the PEI together with the parts and with use of the parts.
Afterwards I saw that I never had a chance to remove the parts. Even with the peeled PEI I can not separate a small piece.
After all, I can use the parts (with PEI at the bottom). Not uninteresting after a 20h print.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

Hi...

I just had a similar experience, however I managed to get the print off with some patient constant wiggling, pulling and scraping. I destroyed the print in the process and there are some minor scars left of it on the bed. I wish I had seen your warning earlier.

This ASA-X by Dutch Filaments sticks to the PEI like crazy. I tried a small print with no bed heating. Interestingly enough this seemed to even increase adhesion.

I read the tip about talkum powder, however I don't have any nor anything similar at the moment. I wonder if anyone found a good way to print ASA-X.

Other than the sticking issue it seems to be a great filament.

(Just to be clear, like Jens, I'm not blaming Prusa in any way either. I like to experiment and failures like this are part of the fun)

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

I am a bit late to the party, but something that had worked for me with certain CoPolyesters was dripping some IPA alongside all corners of a print. It crept under the print and after a few minutes, the parts came off. I tried a couple of times with different filaments and it does seem to help fairly often.

I have no clue if this has any effect on ASA-X though.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

I would say to protect the bed and build surface since you can always print more parts.

With this in mind, use a heatgun or hair dryer to melt the parts off the bed.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

Would using a glue stick help at all with this type of filament?

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

Correct me if i'm wrong here, but a glue stick is included with the printer, meant to be used to reduce adhesion with super-sticky plastics like this right?

I have a couple rolls of FormFutura ASA-X that worked great on my previous printer with a BuildTak surface. Haven't tried it yet on my MK2, but I'll definitely prep the bed for it. The FormFutura brand of ASA-X resists warping really well, shouldn't need a brim.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

Ken,

i think glue stick is some sort of universal bandaid for all sorts of adhesion woes. It's multipurpose. 😉

Some use it to enhance adhesion for example when used for ABS, others to lower adhesion/protect the actual bed surface. Here with ASA, its to make sure you don't tear up your PEI when trying to pry off ASA prints. I am not sure if technically the term "lowers adhesion" is correct - or if the glue layer just breaks away from the PEI.

Personally, i am not a great fan of gluestick, i dislike the sticky glue-y part and cleaning it off the bed and sometimes the bottom layer. But it does work.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

I have a friend who needs to print parts for outside use on his model trains. He has tried ASA from Fillamentum on his Kossel Mini. With no luck.

I saw the comments about ASA -X here and the wrecking of the PEI sheet, so drew the line to help him with my Prusa I3 Mk2. We tried printing on my Kossel Mini and got the same poor layer results and warping.

I have ordered some ASA from RigidInk as reviewed by Thomas Sandladerer. I'm going to try gluestick on the bed of my Prusa I3 Mk2 with a small print first. Others have suggested using Window Cleaner on the bed. I'll post my results after I receive my ASA filament from RigidInk.

I have a spare PEI sheet and some Turpentine if it wrecks my PEI sheet.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

HI

May be a dumb idea, but why not simply use blue painter tape, for sure it will be easier to remove, and the chanced of destroying the PEI is reduced, or is my line of thought inconsistent?

Best regards

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

HI

May be a dumb idea, but why not simply use blue painter tape, for sure it will be easier to remove, and the chanced of destroying the PEI is reduced, or is my line of thought inconsistent?

Best regards

Blue painters tape would also mean you need to adjust your Live Z offset. It should be okay with glue.

Re: Print bed ruined by printing ASA-X

UPDATE. I added some pritstick to the printer bed as suggested and took a chance with RigidInk ASA (Black). Brilliant print of my friends complicated part. Without ruining the PEI sheet. ie easy removal of the printed ASA part. This Prusa Mk2 always gives me the results I desire,, I love it 🙂

My friend is going to buy a genuine Prusa Mk2s from Prusa as soon as possible.