Newbie Help?  

Re: Newbie Help?

hi - it is worth persevering with the printer - they can be frustrating but when you are able to repair anything - within reason- by creating your own models and print them out. then the look on other peoples faces and the satisfaction you get from being able to do this is second to none.
from my first look at your print it appears that the filament at the front is not sticking to the bed, too much gap or not clean print bed.
if you can move the filament or it is dragging when it turns a corner then it is not adhering to the print bed. try cleaning the print bed with acetone ( nail varnish remover)
go through the calibration again now you have used it. try it again
it may need settling down after moving and heating.
i really wish you good luck in getting it working, mine is a prusa (clone) and produces parts for a delta printer, fixes cars - new cooker knobs - motorbike replacement covers and lots of other things
so do persevere with it, it is a very capable printer.
once it is working don't forget to try the different types of filaments - wood, brick, stone ,metallic - all in pla

phil

Re: Newbie Help?

Beware. Acetone will restore your print bed. But most nail varnish removers also contain oils to prevent skin damage... a d the oil is not good for print beds.

Also some nail varnish removers are acetone free...

Good luck. JOAN

Re: Newbie Help?

Thanks for the responses.

It's problems like dragging the PLA during prints (When it performs fine during calibration prints) which frustrate me the most. Information is widespread, but nothing I've done really solves the issue.

Following your responses, I've cleaned the print bed throughly, it appears though that by doing this, the prints do not adhere to the bed.

I've tried raising the PINDA probe and re-calibrating too, this led to a more consistent test print, but the corners are still a little shoddy. I've also noticed that the PLA is not being extruded as quickly as I would think it would either. Perhaps there's a blockage there, but I don't know enough about this to give it a clean or take the extruder apart either.

I'm massively frustrated.

Re: Newbie Help?

Hi guys,

I've tried cleaning my bed with acetone in an attempt to ensure the bed is thoroughly clean.

Unfortunately, I'm still coming across the same issues. The printer appears to drag on corners - I've attempted to adjust the Live-Z height to resolve this, but this hasn't solved much of anything. I'm having both issues with adhesion to the bed (Glue, Blue tape and spray have all been tried multiple times) - and I'm unsure as to what to try next, or what within my calibration or construction is incorrect. Can anyone give me any pointers?

Re: Newbie Help?

Use isopropyl alcohol (99%) - Make sure its at least 99%, some drug stores sell it. This is different then regular rubbing alcohol.

Acetone does very well at cleaning the bed and creates a decent surface for ABS to stick to but I have problems with PLA sticking with just acetone. I use acetone to create a very clean surface, and then use isopropyl alcohol afterwards for PLA. I usually wipe it down with the alcohol nearly 5 times and use a different area of the cloth each time. I also advice doing the final wipe with the heatbed a little warmer too.

I only use acetone now when printing with ABS, or after about 5 prints of PLA and using alcohol in-between.

Re: Newbie Help?

The head dragging on the print is a sign that the print is curling up and getting in the way.

A correct Live Z Adjust is the key. Your calibration images show that it is not sticking well since the corners of the pattern are pulling in. They should be 90deg. Jeff has a better calibration file in this thread:

http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-i3-kit-building-calibrating-first-print-main-f6/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html#p35950

Once you have a good clean first layer, the frustration with the other layers will greatly reduce.

Some keys: 1) Good Live adjust Z, 2) Clean Bed, 3) Good flow (calibrate extruder), 4) Good first layer temp.

Hope that helps.

Re: Newbie Help?

Thanks aaron.

Is there any key to getting a good first layer? I feel like I've adjusted the Pinda probe a million times now - and one of 2 things happens - either:

1. Nothing changes, and the nozzle is releasing way too far from the print bed

2. The nozzle scratches the PEI during XYZ calibration

Any tips for getting it just right? My current configuration is this, but it still isn't good enough

Re: Newbie Help?

The method I use is as follows:

1) Get it roughly correct.
a) Set Live adjust Z = 0.00. Make sure PINDA is above nozzle tip by <1mm but above.
b) Do a Calibrate Z. (Head must be clean of drips and lumps).
c) Do a Home. This leaves the head at Z=0.15mm
d) Use Setting -> Move Axis X and Y to get in the center of the print space. DONT TOUCH Z.
e) Put a piece of printer paper under the head. Printer paper is approx 0.1mm
f) Wiggle the paper while adjusting "Live Adjust Z" until the paper just starts to drag on the paper. Back off a bit (20)
2) Get it dialed in real well.
a) Print using "Calibration_surface_PLA_75x75@200um_v4.gcode" found in Jeff's "Life Adjust My Way" Thread
b) Repeat until you have a nice test print - all stuck together and one nice clean sheet.

This takes a little while, but is worth the effort. Once the first layer is good - the rest follows.

Hope this helps.

Re: Newbie Help?

Also, once you get things working really well, one of the first things you should print is the new PINDA holder in the MK2S. This is a HUGE improvement over the MK2 holder you have. Really worth it. I printed mine using PETG. You want something a bit stronger and more heat resistant than PLA.

Re: Newbie Help?

Thank you. I just have a couple of questions before I get started on your suggestions:

1. With step d is it essential I'm in the exact centre or is a rough guess/estimate suitable? If not, how do I achieve this?

2. With step f you're saying to adjust Live Adjust Z, but at this point with the paper underneath it will not be printing. Is there a way to adjust the live adjust Z whilst not printing to better calibrate it?

Thanks again for your help

Re: Newbie Help?

Step D is approximate. In theory since the MK2 adjusts you could be anywhere, but I like to be near the center ish since that is where most of the action is.

Step F. You are not printing during this step. You can adjust Live Z in Setting -> Adjust Live Z (near the bottom). This is from memory, but I think it is correct.

Re: Newbie Help?

Thanks for your advice aaron.s5 - and time. I really appreciate it.

I've followed your instructions very carefully. It appears I've gotten an ideal(ish) Pinda height. I've also purchased some real isopropyl alcohol (looks like Acetone was a horrible idea as you guys suggested) today and both in tandem appear to have resolved my adhesion issue. I need to adjust my live Z by about -700 to get the drag you were describing. I'm now onto printing the calibration 75x75 piece...

This is my first result at my default (717 um after following your steps) and working my way by raising the nozzle twice per print.

My first print shows a little curling, but it's miles ahead better than what I achieved earlier. Even the V2 Calibration prints corners well now.

I'm next going to 675 and 650 - I'll try and fine tune it some more I guess?

EDIT: This is my 675 and 650 prints, which IMO are quite a bit better, showing a lot less curling:

Potentially I'll need to order some more PLA and some PETG (need to do some research on this as I've not heard of it before) - Any suggestions as to vendors that deliver to the UK?

Re: Newbie Help?

No knowledge of UK shipments, but I really like Hatchbox which I get on Amazon or direct from Hatchbox.

Your next learning steps should be to print things in PLA till you are sure you have it all learned.

Start with he pre-bundled models. They were sliced very well, and should show you your printer's abilities.

Then download some files from thingiverse and learn to slice them yourself. There is a small learning curve here, but not hard. Then design your own things, and slice them.

Once you feel you have it under control, then you can try PETG or ABS or PC or ... And can do your MK2S upgrade part(s).

Once you have done this learning curve, you will find it is a very capable and easy to use printer, and you will wonder why you had problems at the beginning. (I know I had numerous fails at first, and now is very robust.)

Glad to help. Your 675 looks good.

Re: Newbie Help?

One warning on PETG. It will fuse to the PEI bed and never come off. You need to use a separator. Glue Stick or Windex works well for me.