Is perfectly perpendicular frame critical?
I have just buid my Mk2S (kit, obviously) and frame is not perfectly perpendicular - during calibration i get "skew will be corrected" message. Is this software correction affecting print quality? Should I correct the frame?
Re: Is perfectly perpendicular frame critical?
Depends how anal you are. I couldn't live with myself.
If you're the type that can let it go then it shouldn't be an issue.
Re: Is perfectly perpendicular frame critical?
as long as your printer always "finds" the 9 calibration points without any problems it's not critical.
ok, the correction during print will require some computing power at the rambo board... but until now*) i haven't noticed a difference in the printing times.
*) had a skewed bed at my second printer for about 2 weeks... until i was able to fix the problem.
it's more important to make sure that the z-axis is perpendicular to the x/y plane (printbed).
the x/y/z calibration test only can detect whether x and y are perpendicular... and it can detect the modulation of the x/y surface in z-direction (required for meshbed leveling).
but the test can't detect whether the z-axis is perpendicular to the printbed or not. if you have a close look at the messages, the printer only gives you statements about x and y beeing perpendicular or even (slightly) skewed. there's nothing mentioned about z !
dem inscheniör is' nix zu schwör...
Re: Is perfectly perpendicular frame critical?
Should I correct the frame?
Just be warned that making the printer frame perfectly perpendicular can be quite tricky task. I know people who actually made things worse while trying to get it perpendicular.
No problem if you know what to do.
Re: Is perfectly perpendicular frame critical?
Should I correct the frame?
Just be warned that making the printer frame perfectly perpendicular can be quite tricky task. I know people who actually made things worse while trying to get it perpendicular.
No problem if you know what to do.
Thank's for the heads up, but I already unlocked this achievement:
Re: Is perfectly perpendicular frame critical?
I have a follow-up query.
Does the printer need to be completely horizontal? Right now Z-frame is held above ground with two nuts and it kind of bothers me; this is unnecessary stress. I would love to put something below Z-frame to keep it up, but that can put whole printer on a slight angle.
Re: Is perfectly perpendicular frame critical?
The surface must be flat to preserve geometry of XY frame, but it doesn't need to be horizontal (I mean water level).
Re: Is perfectly perpendicular frame critical?
I have a follow-up query.
Does the printer need to be completely horizontal? Right now Z-frame is held above ground with two nuts and it kind of bothers me; this is unnecessary stress. I would love to put something below Z-frame to keep it up, but that can put whole printer on a slight angle.
Absolutely no need to support the Z frame. If you look at the many anti-vibration feet out there, you only need 4, one at each corner which raises the Z frame even higher (and they do a very good job...).
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Is perfectly perpendicular frame critical?
Horses for causes, I believe in getting the X Y and Z axis as best aligned as possible. That way the nine point pinda sensor is only adjusting for a possible uneven bed. And maybe rendered superfluous. I own printers that once manually levelled do not need adjustment for many months maybe years. My Ultimaker 2+ was levelled once last year. It is still perfectly level and gives me perfect prints like my Prusa I3 MK 2 with 9 point pinda sensing.
I needed a bigger build base, something Josef Prusa has ignored. I recently bought a Hictop CR 10 with a build base of 300mm x 300mm x 400mm. Via Amazon Prime here in the UK, with next day delivery. It is good printer and is a Creality CR10 lauded by many well known pundits on youtube. It is manually bed levelled. And gives fantastic prints. The CR10 is of course a Prusa I3 clone. I can scale up easily further if I desire, mainly in my need in the y axis, mods I can do easily with the CR 10.
Nigel
Life is keeping interested and excited by knowledge and new things.